Jump to content

AUX Switch Placement


Recommended Posts

Posted

I saw you could get a shroud for the brackets too. That's pretty cool, probably looks OEM

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

b2cef42b573c83c4aaa5b46d565aa790.jpg

 

This is what the shroud looks like for the brackets

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Replies 31
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

 

 

Thank you! I have 4 D-series lights behind my grill right now. Not sure how familiar you are with them, but are the lights you mounted the same size or smaller? Just looking at them they look similar, but hard to tell. I'm assuming any pod light could be mounted on those brackets.

5f974350aac879f4b917c75b6821bd4f.jpg

 

Yeah, there are two mounting spots on the bracket. They are pretty universal for mostly any pod lights really

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Could you post a day time shot of the lights mounted on your truck? Just looking for a bit further away perspective than what you posted. I have always thought about this but then I see some trucks with it and it looks odd to me.

 

Thanks.

513281285a2f9c119348a73041754d73.jpg

 

cb57d395afa04a8e87f7e71c1bd184ed.jpg

 

8c1bf030ee24b770d4f8af61833c4487.jpg

 

They fit well in my opinion

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

And if you don't mind showing how you ran the wiring as well? Or explaining, I've been thinking of a place to put some switches

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The way I did it was that I took that whole assembly out and drilled it from the back. You will have just enough room to be able to drill the switches and wire it all up without the other wiring harnesses getting in the way.

 

The way I wired it was pretty simple. Rigid Industries sells a wiring harness for these lights, so I ended up just going through the fire wall using the huge rubber grommet that everything else is ran through. I used sealant to make sure it stayed watertight. Then I just ran the wiring harness across the top of the engine where there is a wire look already going. Tied them into each pod light and directly to the battery. The hardest part about this is getting through the fire wall in my opinion.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Thanks for the pictures and info. Looks great! The pods are actually bigger than I thought, they fit well.

That's why I got the rigid pods .. their build quality is very good and they are just the right size for the truck. Photos don't do it justice how damn bright they are. The whole setup can be pricy but it looks clean and legit.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

b2cef42b573c83c4aaa5b46d565aa790.jpg

 

This is what the shroud looks like for the brackets

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My bad I was looking at these on my phone in direct sunlight and didn't see the logo. Looks good

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

That's why I got the rigid pods .. their build quality is very good and they are just the right size for the truck. Photos don't do it justice how damn bright they are. The whole setup can be pricy but it looks clean and legit.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

Rigid is the only way to go IMO. I have Rigid fog lights and pods behind my grill and love them. Not cheap, but I find you get what you pay for.

Posted

I installed the same lights but different brackets. Mine are made by T-ex grilles but equally as expensive, I think more than the lights! I haven't seen anyone else with these type of mounts which is why I did this mod. I was hoping to get more output but I found there is a lot of reflection off the hood and a lot of forward light is lost, kinda how a roof bar does. I had a 52" led bar on my F-150 above the windshield and lost so much light from it bouncing off the hood.

 

I think the only way to go for getting any output from light bars is to put them in the grill or on the bumper on like on a bull bar. A 20"-30" Rigid Radiance on a bull bar is gonna be my next move.

 

 

post-163358-0-06136900-1497301153_thumb.jpg

post-163358-0-07907200-1497301159_thumb.jpg

post-163358-0-06136900-1497301153_thumb.jpg

post-163358-0-07907200-1497301159_thumb.jpg

post-163358-0-06136900-1497301153_thumb.jpg

post-163358-0-07907200-1497301159_thumb.jpg

post-163358-0-06136900-1497301153_thumb.jpg

post-163358-0-07907200-1497301159_thumb.jpg

Posted

081eb312ec25453a9efc4679e45c1ab3.jpg

 

Did someone say bull bar mounted LED bar!!

Moving the bar from behind the grill to out front on the bull bar made a world of difference

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I installed the same lights but different brackets. Mine are made by T-ex grilles but equally as expensive, I think more than the lights! I haven't seen anyone else with these type of mounts which is why I did this mod. I was hoping to get more output but I found there is a lot of reflection off the hood and a lot of forward light is lost, kinda how a roof bar does. I had a 52" led bar on my F-150 above the windshield and lost so much light from it bouncing off the hood.

 

I think the only way to go for getting any output from light bars is to put them in the grill or on the bumper on like on a bull bar. A 20"-30" Rigid Radiance on a bull bar is gonna be my next move.

 

 

I agree with what your saying / I just personally like the location of the lights that is why.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I installed the same lights but different brackets. Mine are made by T-ex grilles but equally as expensive, I think more than the lights! I haven't seen anyone else with these type of mounts which is why I did this mod. I was hoping to get more output but I found there is a lot of reflection off the hood and a lot of forward light is lost, kinda how a roof bar does. I had a 52" led bar on my F-150 above the windshield and lost so much light from it bouncing off the hood.

 

I think the only way to go for getting any output from light bars is to put them in the grill or on the bumper on like on a bull bar. A 20"-30" Rigid Radiance on a bull bar is gonna be my next move.

 

 

What steps did you take to make them anti theft? Seems like they'd be easy to steal. Not that I'm a thief, but I know I'd be worried everywhere I parked. Especially sine they are rigids

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

What steps did you take to make them anti theft? Seems like they'd be easy to steal. Not that I'm a thief, but I know I'd be worried everywhere I parked. Especially sine they are rigids

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No anti-theft, just the nut and bolts that came with the lights. No matter what method you do to make some anti-theft on your vehicle, if someone wants what you have bad enough, they're gonna get it. I mean how useless are wheel locks now a days?? You can buy a whole kit on ebay with like 20 different keys.

 

Only anti-theft method I have is an angry dog and a 9mm if I'm lucky enough to catch the bastards in the act.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I just installed some Rigid Industries Radiance Pod Lights using the SDHQ A Pillar Mounts c6e4281133f587dfa838351363d74477.jpg

 

I just wanted to share a switch mounting place that I thought of. I utilized the empty space where the trailer brake control goes. Super easy place to install switches and I think they look very clean!

5d6dfb80f935fd74e8ade3f7ed981c8a.jpg

 

Just an idea for anyone out there who may be possibly thinking of some AUX switch placement

 

Sean

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks great. Where did you get the aux switch setup from? Thanks

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Looks great. Where did you get the aux switch setup from? Thanks

It's a wiring harness from rigid industries

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • If you suspect an engine swap or similar modification to the front accessory drive...   Maybe try spending some time plugging in different make/models/years that utilized the same engine (prime donor vehicles or swap candidates), vans, full-size cars (Impala, Roadmaster), 4x4 trucks to get a collection of pump and brackets that are similar along with their associated part numbers; take that collection of part numbers to the parts store to compare.   Another Okie.
    • There are knowns and unknowns.   Knowns:   - LT, RST and LTZ names/trims are gone.  The new "Silverado" trim level replaces all 3 of those.  You should be able to configure the Silverado trim to match the equipment levels of those three trims.    Unknowns:    - Custom.  No mention of what engines it will have access to.  Dual exhaust being standard does seem to confirm a V8 option for the Custom trim though.  My "guess" is that Custom will have access to the Turbomax and the 5.7.  I could be wrong though.  The current Custom trim went 2.7 Turbomax only the last 4-5 years, and only had a single side exit exhaust.     - 40-20-40.  I would imagine that is NOT going away.  They only focused on showing the new interior on the top trims, Trail Boss, ZR2 and High Country, hence the images shown are just bucket trucks up front.         The info should start coming fairly quickly over the next weeks and months.  Production is supposed to start up later this year, so when the order guide launches, you'll be able to see the configurations of engines, cabs, seating, etc.      
    • I don’t do offloading other than a dirt road literally for me it’s more about the look which I really appreciate a nice looking truck and I like sitting a higher and not just because I’m 5 foot seven lol..  I’m also not compensating for anything lol..  but I truly think it’s safer on the road the higher you sit you have better visibility generally speaking especially a few of your Sideview mirrors adjusted correctly. They do make a programmer rough country does they’re $1000 for these new 2500s but when I do a gear swap that would be a moot point. A lot of the shops that I go to in my area they’re all saying the same thing that Yukon Detroit axle Eaton Spicer Richmond they don’t have gear shot for these trucks which surprises me because hasn’t this body style been out since 2020? I’m hoping soon they have something because yeah I’ll have to spend the 3K to get both axles done. Thank you for all of your response responses. I apologize if there’s any grammatical error errors as I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone without proofreading 
    • I guess I don’t look at it as extreme I had 11 inches on a 1500 ram with 38 I had a 4 inch on a OBSF350 with 37 I had a 4 inch on an OBSF 250 with 35 and I’m not really into off-road I just appreciate good-looking vehicles this truck will never be offloaded other than maybe a dirt road    I mean the factory is even putting 37 on Broncos etc. Raptors they know what people want
    • Topic: OCI, not when but why? Have you considered that just because there is limited documentation on GM's programming of the OLM system that it is not a sign of it's simplicity but a protection of intellectual property? We both agree the system's published parameters are too limited to present an accurate picture of oil quality.   I am not discussing my oil change routines in this comment, I am discussing the parameters of the GM OLM; a key component of "OCI" when and why.   You know what I find interesting? GM trucks, discussing things relevant to those trucks.   If free conversations are not allowed in threads you start I suggest having a discussion with a moderator to have them grant you authority to police and suppress the free exchange of thoughts on your topics accordingly.   Alternatively, if you only want to talk about oil without distractions I suggest bobistheoilguy.com or starting your own blog.   Carry on your discussion of "Engine Wear and ISO 4406"
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...