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Front end noise

AT/GMC

By AT/GMC
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

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ridethedesert
ridethedesert

Does it sound like this?

mookdoc6
mookdoc6

more like this....shhhh....

ridethedesert
ridethedesert

It didn't upload the video for some reason

Victor Hernandez Enthusiast

Victor Hernandez

Posted
Posted
On 7/25/2017 at 2:20 PM, ridethedesert said:

PIT5533 covers a creak, click pop crack noise from the front suspension or frame area while making turns on any of the 2015 through 2017 K2 trucks or SUVs.

The noise may be caused by the front frame crossmember. Loosen then retorque the four attaching bolts. On the first pass, tighten to 52 lb ft. On the second pass, tighten an additional 110 degrees.

Road test again to determine if the concern has been eliminated.

 

https://mp134437.cdn.mediaplatform.com/134437/wc/mp/4000/10391/42497/70171/Presentation/e6/_e6ac6c39-fd10-1f26-173d-3a3fbf768536_/10217.01V_January_2017_EI.pdf

 

I'm not sure why 2015 and up. Mines a 14 but I'm goingto

check it anyway.

Broken link

  • 11 months later...
Shu Enthusiast

Shu

Posted
Posted

Old thread but wanted to post what I found that was causing my LF suspension clunk.  The upper control arm to frame caster/camber adjustment bolts were not properly torqued.  This was allowing the upper A to rock forward and backward in the mounts and clunk.  I have a video of the issue, but it doesn't capture just how much the upper A is really moving when it rocked and clunked.  If you suspect this, have someone back up slowly a few inches at a time and apply the brakes and hold the wheel while they do this.  You will feel the whole wheel move when it clunks.   I went ahead and checked the torque of the upper and lower A mounts on both sides. Only the Drivers upper was loose.  Prior to finding this, I had loosened and retorqued the front cross member under the engine.  It was not torqued to spec either.  Between these two things, I feel I have possibly nearly eliminated most of the vibrations again.  

  • Like 1
Eddie 70 Senior Enthusiast

Eddie 70

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Shu said:

Old thread but wanted to post what I found that was causing my LF suspension clunk.  The upper control arm to frame caster/camber adjustment bolts were not properly torqued.  This was allowing the upper A to rock forward and backward in the mounts and clunk.  I have a video of the issue, but it doesn't capture just how much the upper A is really moving when it rocked and clunked.  If you suspect this, have someone back up slowly a few inches at a time and apply the brakes and hold the wheel while they do this.  You will feel the whole wheel move when it clunks.   I went ahead and checked the torque of the upper and lower A mounts on both sides. Only the Drivers upper was loose.  Prior to finding this, I had loosened and retorqued the front cross member under the engine.  It was not torqued to spec either.  Between these two things, I feel I have possibly nearly eliminated most of the vibrations again.  

What is the correct torque for those upper control arm bolts? Just want to be sure mine are to spec.

 

Shu Enthusiast

Shu

Posted
Posted (edited)

There are two styles, mine was the first style with 4" long bolts and it is 140 ft lbs.  

 

Found this in another post on here:

 

The NEW design bolt (a) is slotted, does NOT have a removable adjust cam, and measures 102 mm (4 in).

 

The OLD design bolt (b) is flat down the entire length of one side, has a removable adjust cam, and measures 110 mm (4.3 in).

 

Two design bolts. If its the first design bolt, where both cams are separate from the bolt, the nut spec is 140 ft.lbs. The second design bolt has one cam attached to the bolt at the bolt head. That nut is 77 ft.lbs.

Edited by Shu
added quote
  • Like 1
Shu Enthusiast

Shu

Posted
Posted

I believe they are 21mm headed bolts, a tight 13/16" will work.  

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  • 1 year later...
  • 9 months later...
Brandon Baipho New Member

Brandon Baipho

Posted
Posted
On 7/7/2017 at 2:00 PM, ridethedesert said:

 

 

It didn't upload the video for some reason

I have a similar sound but it’s more constant I can hear it even when driving straight or hit the tiniest bump been trying to figure out what it is for the longest time 

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