Jump to content

2015 driveline vibration

177mph
 Share

Recommended Posts

177mph Enthusiast

177mph

Posted
Posted

2015 GMC Sierra Denali 6.2 long bed. Factory 22's. No modifications. 39k miles. I have been experiencing a vibration in the steering column and seat at low rpm from 20-60 mph. Usually below 2k rpm when at low throttle application. Vibration comes every few seconds and lasts 2 seconds. Not from the v8-v4 switch. Only thing that helps is running in tow/haul mode or manually shifting. Truck has also been in for service a few times with loud metallic bangs for upshifts and downshifts. Dealer found nothing. No codes.

 

Is anyone else experiencing similar issues?

 

Thanks.

mookdoc6 Senior Enthusiast

mookdoc6

Posted
Posted

2015 GMC Sierra Denali 6.2 long bed. Factory 22's. No modifications. 39k miles. I have been experiencing a vibration in the steering column and seat at low rpm from 20-60 mph. Usually below 2k rpm when at low throttle application. Vibration comes every few seconds and lasts 2 seconds. Not from the v8-v4 switch. Only thing that helps is running in tow/haul mode or manually shifting. Truck has also been in for service a few times with loud metallic bangs for upshifts and downshifts. Dealer found nothing. No codes.

 

Is anyone else experiencing similar issues?

 

Thanks.

Foaming of the Transmission fluid? Do you have the 8L90 mated to it mate? Than you need to flush/fill that pooch!

177mph Enthusiast

177mph

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It would seem from my research on the boards that it could be the converter in the 8 speed transmission. Truck vibrates badly at times below 2k rpm at light throttle.

  • 3 weeks later...
177mph Enthusiast

177mph

Posted
  • Author
Posted

here's the update. Truck is at stealer. I gave them all the information on the trucks condition and the GM documented fixes (They seem to hate being told how to fix). The vibration is consistent with other trucks and is related to the transmission. The fix listed on GM's diagnostics site is converter replacement and a fluid flush. They are refusing to do the converter replacement and only doing the fluid flush. I cannot get them to change their repair no matter what I do. I will hopefully get the truck back tomorrow and see how it goes. I am expecting the same issue to come back in 3 months. Time for another brand.

L86 All Terrain Senior Enthusiast

L86 All Terrain

Posted
Posted

Have another dealer look at it. Many will if they can pursuade you into favouring their dealership. They swapped my TC out on my 2015 6.2 8spd before i even got to drive it, awesome truck no issues, no vibration or weird clunky shifts. My 2014 5.3 w/ 6spd is another story, embarrassing to drive really due to Chevy shake.

Blue17 Enthusiast

Blue17

Posted
Posted

I took mine to the dealer with the same issues, we got tires all set after 3 new ones and multiple road force balance attempts , they showed me where GM will not allow dealers to change the converter anymore as the original version of that TSB stated. they did do the triple flush with the Gucci fluid. it was better but not completely gone. its vibrates at 65-75 I brought it back and they checked some more things and contacted GM, they explained to me that GM wanted them to check TCC slip speed at 60mph and if it were more than 10 RPM's to change the converter, they checked it, it was 26 RPM's and they put a new converter in it. so far (knock wood) it seems to be corrected. they also let me know that the TC part number has been changed 4 times since they did one other swap in April of 2017. they said that sometimes means there was changes made to correct issues.

 

I think the dealers are behind the 8 ball on this issue, GM doesn't always tell them the whole story either, so they can only do what they are allowed to. So far my dealer has been very good to me on this issue they have not stopped trying. I am very happy with their service. I just hope I wont need to see them anymore for a while.

hotrdlx Enthusiast

hotrdlx

Posted
Posted

I am having the same issue with my 2015. The torque converter has already been replaced once for this exact same issue. The transmission tech at the dealer told me that it the shuttering was not bad enough yet and to keep driving it until the vibration and shuttering gets worse. No diagnostic tools were connected to find out the amount of slip. They were also hesitant to work on it as it had been less than a year since the first replacement.

 

Does gm give dealers a hard time about warranty repairs if they have a reoccurrence within a year? Obviously this would not be due to anything the dealer did or did not do but just poor parts quality or design issues.

 

I know the gm customer service people lurk on the board how about providing contact information to someone that can give us a straight answer to the ongoing issues with these 8 speeds.

  • 3 months later...
TX15Z71 Enthusiast

TX15Z71

Posted
Posted

Hey 177.  Any update?  Did the fluid flush help at all?  My 2015 is starting to do the exact same thing.  About 35k on the odometer. 

  • 4 weeks later...
TX15Z71 Enthusiast

TX15Z71

Posted
Posted

I took mine in to the dealer for the shuddering between 20 and 50 mph.  They did a transmission fluid flush 8 times.  Yes 8 times.  That's what the manufacturer is calling for.  My vibrations are gone for now.  Hopefully this was a permanent solution. 

  • 3 years later...
lucas287 Enthusiast

lucas287

Posted
Posted
14 hours ago, orangedeluxe said:

Did the fluid flush fix it long term?  I’m having a similar issue on my 2015 Sierra Denali I just purchased.

 

You very well might need the new updated "blue bottle" ATF. However, I think a lot of folks are experiencing axle wrap and general vibrations from unequal operating angles. Just my two cents. 

 

I've been down this road myself and blamed it on the 8 speed or the TC. After the dealer flushed with new fluid I thought it was all better but it was just placebo. That's when I started going down the path of operating angles. With a one-piece driveshaft the angle of the t-case/transmission output shaft needs to be equal (and opposite) to the pinon angle. Once I got that nailed (with shims) I installed some traction bars and voila - no vibes. These direct-injection engines punch above their weight class down low in the torque department. The L83 is more akin to the coveted LQ4 and the L86 makes big-block torque. You can't control that torque with the crappy leaf design GM uses. 

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Pam McC New Member

Pam McC

Posted
Posted

Hi, I was told by the service manger at my dealer that the torque converter needs flushed and driven 3 times and there’s a COMPUTER UPDATE that needs to be done to rectify the problem! If that doesn’t solve the problem then replace the torque converter. 
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined

  • Who's Online   6 Members, 1 Anonymous, 623 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • Chuck FB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Snowcamo
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By Snowcamo · Posted

      Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
    • rdonarski
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By rdonarski · Posted

      This landing is worse than most. Patchy blacktop with washouts, soft gravel/sand at bottom that washes out with every heavy rain. I tell everyone to put it in 4WD. A lot of them think they can pull out their trailer in 2WD. They end up digging a hole and then putting it in 4WD.  The lake is a pristine lake and has a lot of money on it. There are several wake boats and lot of large tritoons. The people with the money don't want it improved because they don't want more traffic.    Boat Landing 1.jfif Boat Landing 2.jfif Boat Landing 3.jfif
    • PBNB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By PBNB · Posted

      How wide are your rims?   Toyo specs 8.5-10.0-11.0 inches. My thought would be rim might be pulling the tire inwards creating a center that is more pronounced.    I also noticed that the spec sheet says max 65psi. So you could be right lowering the pressure to ~40 psi. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...