Jump to content

2017 Dash Rattle


TonyV

Recommended Posts

Posted

New member here but long time lurker. I've explored all options and scoured the threads here and at other sites with minimal success but my new 2017 Silverado 1500 4WD w/6.2 LTZ has recently started making a series of annoying rattles from under the steering wheel and behind the knee plate. It all started as the vehicle hit 10K miles. I was fortunate to receive one of the first 2017 units back in September of last year but I feel this is too premature for the vehicle to sound like it has 100K miles on it. It's gotten to the point where I actually do not like driving the vehicle anymore. I am under warranty but I am not sure how the dealer will respond. The noise or resonance occurs on regular road and highway speeds. The noises are not pot hole induced sounds as those would be expected.

 

I have inspected the 4 screws behind the knee plate and all 4 were tight. The metal backing on the knee plate does appear to be loose so that may be part of the rattle because just driving down the road with pressure on the plate relieves some of the vibration sounds but not all.

 

I also attempted to re-route the hood release cable and that somewhat relived some as well. However I think more resonance is occurring farther down the cable line. GM should really look into an alternative cable selection given the number of hood release cable rattle complaints.

 

I am anxious to see how my local dealer or GM responds. I would think GM has access to post shakers to diagnose or resolve these issues. Any suggestions as I get ready to to take the vehicle back to the dealer? I have even gave thought to trading it in for a new one.

 

Thanks in advance for your help.

Posted

No I intend to exercise my warranty. I just don't know how the dealer will react. This is one of those subjective opinions on what is acceptable or not as far as noises from a car.

Posted

I thought this video would help. I had a annoying rattle as well.

 

I did have a two screws loose like in the video but the rattle continued. It turns out it was my hood release. I put some single sided foam tape between the hood release and the plate and I have not noticed more rattles since.

Posted

I had a similar rattle that drove me nuts when my truck was new in that same area. Turns out one of the "heat stakes" was defective and not as long as the other one, hence room to rattle. If I kept tension on the hood latch cable it would pull the panel tight thus preventing the noise. Take it in and hopefully it's something easy like mine once it was properly diagnosed.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Solved - After 4 days at the dealer, this is what they came back with...

 

13796 Metallic rattle type noise hear from IP area referred to service information found PIT 5438D metallic rattle type noise from instrument panel area. After several road test found rattle coming from under dash area while driving. Repair has been made for condition #1 on the bulletin, the Power Converter has been removed and insulation tape has been added to the converter mounting bracket #P40517 and converter and been re installed. Rattle has been eliminated.

 

Not sure what it all means but truck is silent as expected for a new 2017. Hopefully this can help other truck users with the same issue.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
    • when it's greyed out that is it's way of telling you that it's downloading the patch in the background. Eventually it will be fully downloaded and then it will prompt you at ignition shut down to run the update. I highly recommend doing the update once you get home and can run it a few times. I've had several issues with updates not going the first time around and I had to retry the update multiple times in my driveway before it was successful.   Some updates are huge and take awhile to download. You can help it by connecting to your home WiFi and keep the truck on service mode for the ignition and keep it alive for awhile on a battery charger too. There are specs it needs to be in for updating such as a full enough battery charge, no running ignition, etc.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...