New 2017 Special Ops 4x4

makosenna · August 29, 2017

Chevy LT 1500 CCSB on the way out as it's off to detail and going up for sale next week. Been a great truck with no problems!

Looks list I should go with strut upgrade and 275 65 20 tire from what I can see on these forums.

Where would I fine build #'s on this truck?

Like to see more Special Ops pics.

Crazyjoker77 · August 29, 2017

Chevy LT 1500 CCSB on the way out as it's off to detail and going up for sale next week. Been a great truck with no problems!

Looks list I should go with strut upgrade and 275 65 20 tire from what I can see on these forums.

Where would I fine build #'s on this truck?

Like to see more Special Ops pics.

I'd like to see more pics of your special ops... Particularly of the light-bar. Wondering specifically how they ran the wires(did they fish them through the tubes?) Did they go into the cab or under the cab to get the wires to the engine bay? Any branding on those lights? they seem pretty low profile compared to most LED lights. Whats the actual dimensions of them? How/what did they mount them?

Chevytrk1 · August 30, 2017

Awesome truck!

I really, really like the running boards that it came with

Crazyjoker77 · August 30, 2017

Another Quick Pic I snapped of mine. Sure wish I would of turned the wheels the other way, it would of made a much better photo..

makosenna · August 30, 2017

I'd like to see more pics of your special ops... Particularly of the light-bar. Wondering specifically how they ran the wires(did they fish them through the tubes?) Did they go into the cab or under the cab to get the wires to the engine bay? Any branding on those lights? they seem pretty low profile compared to most LED lights. Whats the actual dimensions of them? How/what did they mount them?

Had a look that led's for you and looked up part number and this is what I found. https://www.rigidindustries.com/products/sae

7x3 and look well built. Dealer ran wires under cab to engine bay zip tied to frame. He should of fished though tubes but didn't. Wires

are hid between bars. I'll post better pics later.

Thinking about air dam fix might take to dealer for replacement.

makosenna · September 4, 2017

Light switch.

makosenna · September 4, 2017

Light wiring pics.

Crazyjoker77 · September 8, 2017

Well started my install of the lights today. They are 12" dual row that where on an amazon flash sale for 30$ each with pretty good reviews. Tested them on the bench to check them out before going to the hassle of installing them. They claim 226W (which is the rated wattage of all the LED) but upon bench testing found the driver is only driving them at 70W which is pretty standard for a 12" bar. Mounted perfectly to the factory sport bar mount with no modifications.

I appreciate you taking pictures of your install and I'm going a different route. I fished some wires down the drivers side tube and under the cab following the factory harness. This way there is no visible wires except for a few inches from the light bar to the hole in the mounting plate. Covered the exposed wires under the truck with the same split wire loom they used on yours and then zip tied to the factory harness all the way to the engine bay running to my control relays.

I'm also gonna use the factory upfitter switch to control the relays.(what I'm waiting on to finish up the install) Going this route its hard to tell its not a factory install.

I also purchased the Rough Country LED bull bar. And have the switches wired so that Aux 1 turns on the bumper light, Aux2 turns on the roof lights, and aux 3 turns all 3 on/off with the high beams. Aux4 will be unused at this time but I wired it up to a spare relay in the engine bay so the future add-on is very simple.(I'm thinking of putting a traffic advisor bar in the back window) But I'm trying to find one that switches between patterns by cycling power and not through a proprietary controller.

Crazyjoker77 · September 15, 2017

All Aimed...

Donstar · September 15, 2017

Light wiring pics.

You have a great looking truck! I would ask your dealer's service manager why they chose to leave the wires exposed? You have a very elaborate light bar setup and it is unacceptable (imo) to run wires on the outside of the tubes. I would also question how the holes were made in the box for the cable to pass through and in the dash for the switch. These may seem like insignificant concerns but they indicate a rushed job or the work of an unskilled technician. I wouldn't be surprised that if once you expressed concern to the service manager, you'd get this installation cleaned up.

Crstfr · September 15, 2017

i like it too.. looks great, but as said above by Donstar, they did a sloppy job on the wires...

bdsilverado · September 15, 2017

After making police cars for years nothing surprises me. Upon teardown from an old cruiser I always see cords literally wrapped around the drivers side airbags... I swear it would be 2 out of every 10 cars. Even newer Ford's we take em apart to get the light bars and it's jaw dropping. Never know what you will find with a shitty wire job.

Crazyjoker77 · September 16, 2017

Well after installing mine I can tell why the tech took the easy way out with regards to wiring. I though I would just be able to push a fish tape from the top of the bar and have it pop out the bottom of the box and have everything wrapped up in under a hour... That turned out to be not true at all. Fishing the wires through the tubes was simple but no matter what I couldn't get them to go into the box. After wasting too much time i just removed all the bolts for the sport bar and propped it up with a couple blocks of wood(i could not remove it completely as it still had the factory wiring for the sport bars 3rd brake light) Turns out there is about a 3" offset between where the wires exit the tube and enter the box! Now that I could feed the wires into the box I thought I was home free. I was wrong yet again as the wires exit into a pocket, that is high up in the box that has at thick lip all around it. I was able to follow the wire loom for the 3rd brake light to find this pocket but I could not get my fish tape in position to actually exit this ridiculous pocket. After perfecting my contortionist abilities and using a very greasy frame bolt to prop myself up I finally managed to get a grip around the wires (gave up with the fish tape as it was just to solid to bend out of the pocket and not get caught on the lip) Now finally with the wire exiting the bottom of the bed I quickly run it alongside the factory wiring harness under the bed and into the engine bay. I slid some wire loom over all the exposed wiring right up to that annoying bed pocket. Finished it off by wiring it into one of my relays and let out a sigh of relief when it all worked.

Here is a picture that shows the stupid offset the wiring has to take I also had to make sure not to pinch the wire when bolting the sport bar back in place as it has a tiny groove the wire needs to be fed into and the #10wire was just small enough to fit into.