Jump to content

Battery Replacement-Ugh

CounterMeasure

Recommended Posts

truckguy82 Senior Enthusiast

truckguy82

Posted
Posted

I would not let anyone else change out my battery, after doing it myself, i found it would be extremely easy to accidentally touch the wires together. Too many connections and too tight of space to work in.

 

DIY job for the sake of your truck

 

also wasn’t happy when I lost my “best” mpg stats lol

  • Replies 36
  • Created
  • Last Reply
diyer2 Senior Enthusiast

diyer2

Posted
Posted

When I bought my truck used it still had the OEM battery, about 4 years old.

First thing I did was put in a new one.

The old front mount battery was easier for sure but servicing the trans really sucked.

 

:)

 

 

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted

There was a new Walmart battery in my low mile 09 Buick when I bought it and from day one I would get random alarms on the display, like low oil pressure, parking brake on and so on. We don't drive it much and it sits on a Battery Tender most of the time. Of course one day it croaks. I replace it with an Interstate Battery then have the Walmart battery tested. Dead Cell. Evidently dead from birth. So it sat just above the 9.5 volt threshold and would trip alarms. Hasn't had an alarm since. Jason, my head wrench tells me that he has replaced dozens of Walmart Batteries  with dead cells under a year old. The Interstate was $20 cheaper. I've been using Interstate since Sears Diehard became Sears DOA. 

diyer2 Senior Enthusiast

diyer2

Posted
Posted

Checking battery voltage is a good way to evaluate battery condition IMO.

If the vehicle sits for a while, say a week the voltage will tell how the battery is doing.

I used to use a Fluke DVM to check battery voltage until I found this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVWDU0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Works good, easier and faster.

 

:)

jagabom (Esquire) Enthusiast

jagabom (Esquire)

Posted
Posted

Had a 99 GMC.  Battery lasted 13 years in Manitoba Canada.  Does get to +90F here in the summer but not a lot.  Gets to -30 or 35F in the winter.  Had 160,000 miles on it.  Used a battery blanket in the winter and a small piece of plywood under the battery. 

Jim

CYWG

Hozer Enthusiast

Hozer

Posted
Posted

The battery in my '14 just died this week.  I've owned the truck for 3 years, 2 months but the truck hit the lot a full 4 years ago so I'm surprised to see an OEM battery dead during winter.  Will be replacing with an Interstate MegaTron Plus. I've put one of those in every vehicle I've owned and never had one fail before 6 years. Some were actually transferred to the next vehicle and just kept kicking.

WesternMike Enthusiast

WesternMike

Posted
Posted

I’m at 109,000 on my 14 and I’ve left light bars on enough where I drained the batter roughly 10-15 times over they life time and still haven’t killed my battery.

I’m in Alberta, Canada. This truck spent a lot of time in Fort McMurray in extreme cold(even killed the battery there a lot).

In my opinion, fantastic battery.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,737
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Christopher Miller
    Newest Member
    Christopher Miller
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 2 Anonymous, 1,529 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • txab
      2001 GMC Sierra - Banging feeling in steering wheel

      By txab · Posted

      Without knowing how bad your banging is, one suggestion is the intermediate steering shaft on the steering wheel. These used to be a problem on 800 and earlier series. The feeling/sound was sometimes described as "clunking" and was felt in the wheel. Also there is a plastic piece in the lower column that is referred to as a bearing. Not your traditional looking bearing though. Your ball joints, bushings and tie rods or steering rack (if equipped) are the main point of issues. You never mention total unit miles, only that you've put 60k on it.   You can search the site for help on the ISS description. Plenty of these have been replaced   https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=site%3Agm-trucks.com+intermediate+steering+shaft&ia=web
    • GAMark
      Road Master Active Suspension

      By GAMark · Posted

      Yes I have is set with the 1mm disk (Minumim Tension), for spring spacing and I raised my truck in the rear 1.5". You can go 2mm  and I think 3mm if you need.Minimum. We are on our way to TN from GA.. My wife is driving and stated she cannot believe  and   stated she can not belive the difference.
    • GAMark
      Road Master Active Suspension

      By GAMark · Posted

      Most 1 ton trucks come with the factory overload spring, which need to be removed for installation of RoadActive Suspension. Removing the overload allows proper fitment and ensures the system works as intended. The RAS® Mega-Duty kit will reduce squat and provide significant improvement vs the factory overload spring.
    • No1UKnow
      Transmission Woes :-(

      By No1UKnow · Posted

      I wonder as well, why they would send me a text message with links to these suggested procedures totalling over $10,000 without even the slightest hint of how they arrived at these being necessary.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      https://precisionlubrication.com/articles/oil-filter-efficiency/     For them it is a problem of $$$$ and compliance. To cover both they have to lie from the heart.    Government wants low waste oil numbers so the bar needs to be very low on contamination to met that requirement.  Consumer wants cheap maintenance (perceived cost). Again requiring a low bar.  OEM wants high margins at a cost effective warranty rate and lots of repeat customers. More low bar.  Filter manufacture wants the same thing the OEM wants. See the pattern?   Consumers are fickle and also want perfection requiring a HIGH bar. Inconsistent with all of the above. Consumers can be, when the put their minds to it, inquisitive, love winning arguments which requires some useful information to be available to support them. And this is where it gets sticky and the lies begin.    Information needs a solid well grounded point of reference if we are to compare in a useful way. There is a standard for this.  ISO 4548-12. This standard sets the particle size at a specific Beta ratio and darn few are faithful to its intent.    If they don't state the test method they change the particle size or the Beta ratio to hit a perceived favorable standard. They obscure the information in a way as to prevent direct comparisons leaving the consumer with one method. UOA's with an ISO 4406 test result. Pricey and not allot of labs willing to do the work. Lobby work happens everywhere, not just at the seat of government.       

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...