Jump to content

Help, Strange Rear Diff Sound


Recommended Posts

Posted

Just picked up a 200K 1 Owner Rust free '07 burb for a deal. I was not concerned about drivetrain, just rust free. Anyway the rear diff under load is making a strange sound. It is silent slow and coasting. I have never heard anything like it. It's like cats fighting in the diff. Typically over 30 MPH and in 3rd or 4th gear. In 1 or 2 I cannot hear it. We drove it 1000 miles from down south back to new england. Actually sounded like and exhaust rush noise like I had in my 00 burb from the exhaust exiting the tailpipe. I did try the locker and it works fine. I listened with a stethoscope and it appears to be coming from the carrier area but it was hard to tell. I dislike dealers so I want to diagnose and fix myself. Actually sounds like a rusty brake disk in the diff. Fluid is spotless and there was a little film of very fine silver stuff on the magnet. No howling either. I have uploaded a video to google. The site may not allow links, but here it is. https://photos.app.goo.gl/V6xUoKhQsi6Egmks2

post-109560-0-47108000-1506288522_thumb.jpg

post-109560-0-47108000-1506288522_thumb.jpg

post-109560-0-47108000-1506288522_thumb.jpg

post-109560-0-47108000-1506288522_thumb.jpg

Posted

Pulling the cover and inspect it. At least change out the fluid and make sure it is filled to the correct level.

  • 6 months later...
Posted

Its got to be a bad bearing or something. When I replaced the fluid in my rear end, I filled it up to the "add hole". Rather than putting the plug back in right away, I waited 10 minutes and checked it again. The level was way too low, so I had to add more. I think the thick gear oil takes time to flow into the axle shaft area, so without waiting a bit for the fluid level to equalize - you can get a false "full" reading. This is just a theory, but I think it may contribute to Chevy's premature rear end failure reputation. I agree with these guys. Pull that diff cover and have a look. 

ha3LfJf.jpg

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks for posting, I'm sure it will help someone
    • New to diesel trucks. I happened to find my oil cooler leaking oil externally with only 4,000 miles on the truck. I didn’t realize this was an issue until I started researching it. Dealer is going to replace it under warranty but I’m wondering if there’s anything GM is working on to fix this issue. I’ve heard the oil filter used is the same as they use on their V6 motors and that’s what is causing the problems. Should I switch to a bigger filter or keep using the OEM recommended? 
    • So, GMCustomerService:  Judging by the Update History pictured above, is this truck missing any updates that it actually needs. If it's just for the infotainment system, the radio is working fine and no trouble with SeriusXM. and Android Auto is working fine wirelessly with my phone. Some months ago, an update notice was sent to my truck. I approved the update and it finished saying that the update was successful, but it seems that whatever that update was, it didn't actually get installed - at least not if I'm to go by the Update History shown above.   So, again, are there any updates that this truck really should have? I've checked with my dealer but they're reluctant or commit to anything and if I want them to check, they require a $200.00 fee just to check it out and then I'd have to pay for the actual update(s).    Ignorance is bliss, and if none of the updates goes to fixing any mechanical discrepancies, I'll just leave things as is.  
    • Hey everyone, I recently had an issue with my 07 2500HD GMT900. My DRL’s stay on at all times. Right front turn and right mirror turn signal indicator stay on solid at all times. By “at all times” I mean the only way to make them go off is disconnecting the battery. I tore the headlight assemblies out, tried disconnecting the harnesses to eliminate bad wiring at the harness, I unplugged the headlight switch, no change and the mirror turn signal still stayed on. My first thoughts were : Bad bulb and/or socket somewhere, under hood fuse panel bad, bcm bad, tail light or trailer wiring problem, or some random short to power in the harness.  Possibly a bad ground but unlikely. I had a big clue in the fuse panel, it had a burnt smell. I started pulling every fuse that had to do with DRL or right turn/park lamp. Nothing made the right directional turn off but pulling the DRL2 fuse made the DRL’s go out.  After studying wiring diagrams, I found that both problems had that fuse panel in common, the bcm also controls both problems but knowing the fuse panel had a burnt smell I removed and disassembled the fuse panel and found a little corrosion on the printed circuit board.  I ordered a new fuse panel from Amazon for like $260. When it arrived I installed it, and put everything back together, the problem was fixed. I figured the fuse panel needed to be replaced anyway so that was a logical place to start. Hopefully this story helps someone in the future. Regretfully I didn’t scan for codes before I did everything.
    • That stinks. I’m sitting on the side of the road right now with the same issue. Never had an issue before taking it in for the ground strap recall. Now I’m outside of warranty and they’ll probably want $200 just to diagnose what they already “fixed”. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...