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Posted

Please, I beg someone, help me.

I have a 2007 Chevy Tahoe that has been in and out of the shop 3 different times over the last week. The stabilitrack off light came on as well as reduced engine power light. They coded it out and originally thought it was the throttle sensor. Fixed it twice with new part each time.

I have read several different forums hoping I could take it to my mechanic with suggestions.

I do not have on star, which was a solution for some.

If anyone has had this same issue and can provide me with some insight it would be very much appreciated.

I hope I did this correctly.

Thanks to all who took the time to read.

Posted

What are/were the codes?

What was replaced?

Onstar will NEVER be of any use for this. All they can do is tell you what codes are in the system.

Posted

Gotta have the codes to get started.  What state or city do you live?  There might be someone from these forums with a scan tool that could help.

Posted
1 hour ago, tbarn said:

What are/were the codes?

What was replaced?

Onstar will NEVER be of any use for this. All they can do is tell you what codes are in the system.

 

Posted

I live in Grayling ,Mi. I am not sure what the codes were. I know he said it threw two different ones. One being the Throttle position sensor and the other being the gas petal sensor that works with it. He replaced both the parts and it's still doing it. I disconnected the battery because I saw that it has worked for some to reset. Again, not a solution. II am at a loss.

Posted

I'll throw this out as a long shot....  Check your battery and cables.  If there is an issue in the electrical system, it can cause weird codes to be thrown.

Posted

Ok Going to try to help you without knowing the codes which is a mistake. It is kinda like the blind leading the blind.

 

If it is a throttle position code and they through a throttle body at it and it didn't fix it most likely it is in the wiring (there is a GM Bulletin on the TB connector being a problem)

 

Personally if it were my truck and I had a TP1 or TP2 code setting I would replace the connector with (6 pin 88988106 connector - http://amzn.to/2zZAMvg) and run new wires from the connector to the ECM (you will need micro 64 terminals - http://amzn.to/2jQDc9A ) (you will need a terminal crimping tool if you don't have one - http://amzn.to/2A2blt9)

 

These wires run straight from the TB to the ECM so you should be able to wiggle test the wires and get it to act up. A lot of times what I see is where the wires go into the connector itself there will be a little bend and the wire will be white. I see this a lot on the yellow (581) and purple (486) wire. If you give it a little tug the wire will separate and you know that's where the break is in the wire.

 

This is just my suggestion without knowing any of the codes. I do all the electrical work at the dealership I work at and have been for the last 17 years.

 

Here is a schematic in case you decide to go that route.

Throttle.thumb.gif.a309f7fe77388a85282b1311d0c2da97.gif

 

 

Posted
On 11/20/2017 at 7:59 PM, Logan Lanfear said:

Get the codes read and have them tell you the actual codes.  

Something funny. I was listening to https://www.yout ube.com/watch?v=My5lL0_sURw When I pressed Play on your video in your signature and it kinda synced lol. I put a Space between yout ube so it wouldn't post a video on here lol. 

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