Jump to content

If you have Michelin Defender LTX Tires...

ember1205

Recommended Posts

ember1205 Senior Enthusiast

ember1205

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Good tip, but mine is at least $100 more expensive than Town Fair for everything. I'll check with the dealer to see if they'll drop the price as I would prefer to have them do the work if price weren't an issue.

  • Replies 36
  • Created
  • Last Reply
seamus2154 Enthusiast

seamus2154

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, ember1205 said:

The $70 is a Michelin offer and is valid anywhere you buy a full set of four. The "sale" for TireRack appears to be an amount that roughly negates the shipping (for me, the discount was $10 less than the shipping cost). You don't pay sales tax on them in my area, but it's harder to find a place to mount them (Town Fair won't do it). And if you have an issue, a lot of shops will turn you away if you bought tires on line. Most local places are sick of Tire Rack eating their lunch.

 

Any reasonable local shop will match the prices against TR anyhow.

Agreed. These last 2 years I have been using TR as a negotiating tool because as you said many will match TR pricing. Some can't come close though, they either don't have the buying power or contract with Michelin as some do. I have found tire Kingdom has a Michelin contract and no one beats them in my area but TR. So it's my way of trying for free mounting and TPMS for same TR price, which works out most of the time. Costco is good for that and has good Michelin pricing. Good luck, You will love the Defender or Premier!

GRN69CHV Enthusiast

GRN69CHV

Posted
Posted

My '15 came with Bridgestone RH-S in 265/65-18. These were decent when new but noticed lack of wet traction by 25,000.  Changed them out at 30,000 miles to the Michelin Defender LTX in 275/65-18.  Truck now has 58,000 on it.  Tough to compare the Bridgstone when new vs the MIchelin when new , too much time had went by.  But, at approx. 28,000 on the Michelins, truck is still very predictable and handles very nice. This will be my 2nd winter on the tires.  Still a lot of tread.  Are they going to go 70-80,000 miles?  WHo knows, but I'd be happy with 60,000.  I try to keep them at spec'd 35psi cold as a minimum. Have ran them as low as 32 psi and has high as 40 psi to see if any change in handling, ride or mpg.  35 psi is good. 40 psi wasn't bad, but can't really say I noticed any difference in mpg or handling.  

ember1205 Senior Enthusiast

ember1205

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So....

 

I called Costco because I got an email from them with their $.01 / tire mounting special. The woman I spoke with said that promo had actually expired, but they would honor it if I showed them the email stating when it was good until.

 

She gave me an "out-the-door" price (with that promo included) of something like just shy of $800 with all taxes. She did indicate that this price ALSO factored in the $70 Michelin rebate (which I would not have to send away for - not sure how that works with the retailer providing the discount directly).

 

I would need to factor in approximately $100 on top of that cost to have the alignment done. So, figure about $900 for everything from Costco. My dealer had already quoted me $1050.

 

I went to Town Fair and talked with them about the different options that were out there, and they were able to offer me a final price of about $913 (which is pretty close to what I would have paid in total with Costco).

 

BUT

 

I still have the Michelin rebate to send in for, so I'll get $70 of that back. That would make the Town Fair price about $65 less than Costco.

 

BUT

 

If you use a Town Fair Tire credit card to pay for a set of tires before the end of this year, there's an additional $100 instant savings. So, the dollar amount that goes on the card is actually $813 and I send away for $70 from Michelin. Total cost when all is said and done is about $745 with an alignment, TPMS reset, and everything else.

 

Can't beat that with a stick, and I didn't try. Had the new tires put on, and I'm pleased with how quiet they are and how nicely the truck drives / rides.


Thanks to everyone for the feedback they provided.

Donstar Senior Enthusiast

Donstar

Posted
Posted

Good deal!  I prefer dealing with Costco as long as they carry my preferred tire.  The membership bonus and large network of stores throughout Canada and the US  are important to me.  Also, due to their high volume of sales, tires are usually within a couple of months of their production date.

GRN69CHV Enthusiast

GRN69CHV

Posted
Posted

Costco had good price when I was looking but wouldn't install the 276/65-18, they would only sell and install the stock size of 265//65-18.  They'd sell me the larger tires but said company policy was to not install oversize tires.  

Donstar Senior Enthusiast

Donstar

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, GRN69CHV said:

Costco had good price when I was looking but wouldn't install the 276/65-18, they would only sell and install the stock size of 265//65-18.  They'd sell me the larger tires but said company policy was to not install oversize tires.  

I know they follow some strict rules but I was told that they will go one size over.  On my '00 they replaced my 235's with 245's, on my '09 they replaced my 245's with 265's, and were willing to replace my '15 255's with 265's.  (I dislike white lettering so I went with 255).  I suspect you may have come across an employee who was giving his own special interpretation to company policy.  275 is a very common stock width on these trucks and the height difference from stock is negligible. 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...