Ready lift level kit

[Waaazooo]

So I’m looking at this level kit. I don’t exactly get how a different key will give you a lift in the front and not make the ride stiffer. Either way you are preloading the torsion bar with tension to “liftl the truck right?

 

Anyhow. Is it worth just doing in the driveway or the $600 for kit, labor, and alignment?

 

If I did a DIY job I don’t have a torsion bar tool, so I would need that ant $125 for an alignment.

 

 

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[SMiller]

1 hour ago, Waaazooo said:

 

So I’m looking at this level kit. I don’t exactly get how a different key will give you a lift in the front and not make the ride stiffer. Either way you are preloading the torsion bar with tension to “liftl the truck right?

 

Anyhow. Is it worth just doing in the driveway or the $600 for kit, labor, and alignment?

 

If I did a DIY job I don’t have a torsion bar tool, so I would need that ant $125 for an alignment.

 

 

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Installing keys does nothing, you are twisting a bar, doesn't matter how you go about twisting it. Just crank the bolts, cost nothing...

[Dirtbiker]

The keys make no difference. Unless you want to go higher than the stock keys will allow.  You are right you are just turning the bars further down either way. Jack up the truck, crank the torsion bar adjuster bolts, put in some shock extensions or new front shocks ( slightly longer) and get a good wheel alignment. Some people will tell you keys make a difference but physics disagrees. Some don't think shock extensions are neccesary but you are running in a different part of the stroke than stock height most of the time so I think it is a good idea. Lots of opinions lots of discussion on this forum about keys, etc.  Mine is done this way with no issues in 66,000 km. Other than replacing shitty Procomp shocks that won't last more than a year ( all of them not just front so it is not the level causing problems) ha ha. Gone through five shocks so far. Good thing they warranty them.....

[Waaazooo]

This is my point. What good is a new key going going to do me if I’m only looking for 2-2.5 inches. I thought I read that the stock keys will do that.

I’m not familiar with torsion bars. But the physics doesn’t make sense of how a key can make the ride better or worse in the conversation of lifting the truck. More torsion on the bar lifts the front end and the stiffer the ride will be. Yes?


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[Waaazooo]

He next question. If I was to replace the keys. It doesn’t look too hard if you have that tool


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[redwngr]

2 hours ago, Waaazooo said:

This is my point. What good is a new key going going to do me if I’m only looking for 2-2.5 inches. I thought I read that the stock keys will do that.

I’m not familiar with torsion bars. But the physics doesn’t make sense of how a key can make the ride better or worse in the conversation of lifting the truck. More torsion on the bar lifts the front end and the stiffer the ride will be. Yes?


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 Adjusting does not make the torsion bar stiffer.

 

Adjusting ride height by turning torsion bar is same as adjusting ride height of a coil spring by adding a spacer. The torsion bar is just a spring.  If it's providing 2000 lbs lift before adjustment, it's still providing  2000 lbs after, since both ends of the torsion bar move.  (the spring does not get 'compressed' more, and the torsion bar does not get twisted tighter -- the total degrees of twist on the bar is the same, so lifting force generated is the same) 

 

If the truck is  2" higher due to torsion bar adjustment then the truck can travel 2" further down before it bottoms, but since the wheel is lower relative to the truck, it can drop 2" less before running out of travel (control arm and/or shock absorber).

 

 

 

[SMiller]

7 hours ago, redwngr said:

 Adjusting does not make the torsion bar stiffer.

 

Adjusting ride height by turning torsion bar is same as adjusting ride height of a coil spring by adding a spacer. The torsion bar is just a spring.  If it's providing 2000 lbs lift before adjustment, it's still providing  2000 lbs after, since both ends of the torsion bar move.  (the spring does not get 'compressed' more, and the torsion bar does not get twisted tighter -- the total degrees of twist on the bar is the same, so lifting force generated is the same) 

 

If the truck is  2" higher due to torsion bar adjustment then the truck can travel 2" further down before it bottoms, but since the wheel is lower relative to the truck, it can drop 2" less before running out of travel (control arm and/or shock absorber).

 

 

 

So glad to see someone else that gets it.

 

OP what this guy has said in his two post on his thread is true and should be ready several times.

 

Only thing I will add is even aftermarket shocks will require the shock spacer as I believe Fox is the only one to actually offer longer shocks. No big deal, just hate to see someone buy Bilstein 5100 shocks only to see they are the same length as stock.

[Waaazooo]

 Adjusting does not make the torsion bar stiffer.
 
Adjusting ride height by turning torsion bar is same as adjusting ride height of a coil spring by adding a spacer. The torsion bar is just a spring.  If it's providing 2000 lbs lift before adjustment, it's still providing  2000 lbs after, since both ends of the torsion bar move.  (the spring does not get 'compressed' more, and the torsion bar does not get twisted tighter -- the total degrees of twist on the bar is the same, so lifting force generated is the same) 
 
If the truck is  2" higher due to torsion bar adjustment then the truck can travel 2" further down before it bottoms, but since the wheel is lower relative to the truck, it can drop 2" less before running out of travel (control arm and/or shock absorber).
 
 
 

I guess I’m over thinking this. Because unless you’re clocking the new key and reinserting I don’t see how the lift occurs without creating a pretensioning the bar. I believe what you’re telling me, it just can’t visualize it.

I’m almost willing to try to swing this in the driveway. If I only was 15 years younger. Ha ha


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[Waaazooo]

So glad to see someone else that gets it.
 
OP what this guy has said in his two post on his thread is true and should be ready several times.
 
Only thing I will add is even aftermarket shocks will require the shock spacer as I believe Fox is the only one to actually offer longer shocks. No big deal, just hate to see someone buy Bilstein 5100 shocks only to see they are the same length as stock.

Thanks you for the foresight


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[redwngr]

1 hour ago, Waaazooo said:

I guess I’m over thinking this. Because unless you’re clocking the new key and reinserting I don’t see how the lift occurs without creating a pretensioning the bar. I believe what you’re telling me, it just can’t visualize it.

I’m almost willing to try to swing this in the driveway. If I only was 15 years younger. Ha ha


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'Keys' have an adjuster bolt that lets you turn the key (and the key turns the bar).

 

Because range of bolt/key adjustment is limited, the aftermarket keys have the hex in the key rotated differently (relative to the adjusting arm) than the stock keys.

 

Grab a piece of cardboard and slide under -- the visual should help it make more sense.  

 

GM provides the adjustment so that when accessories (like plows) are added the suspension can be readily adjusted back to the standard ride height to reduce the chance of bottom out.  

[Dirtbiker]

9 hours ago, SMiller said:

So glad to see someone else that gets it.

 

OP what this guy has said in his two post on his thread is true and should be ready several times.

 

Only thing I will add is even aftermarket shocks will require the shock spacer as I believe Fox is the only one to actually offer longer shocks. No big deal, just hate to see someone buy Bilstein 5100 shocks only to see they are the same length as stock.

My Procomps are longer than stock so that spacers aren't needed. I belive BDS may make longer ones as well. Although I wouldnt buy them again due to all the trouble I have had with them. 

[Bhurt]

I had the Ready lift keys put into the front and a Ready lift 2" block put into the rear.  The front will only go so high before the upper control arm hits the stop.  Cranking past that point is where the torsion would create more pressure and thus make for a stiffer ride if I understand the physics of it.  I have mine turned up so it is just about touching the stop.  Ride seems the same as before however I only put about 1000km on before the install.  I went with the blocks in the back so that when I have a load on I don't have the nose pointed into the air.  I plan on running a sled deck in the future.  

 

I believe I gained about 3" in the front after the keys and turning them up and 2" in the back with the blocks.  Unloaded I still have a little bit of a rake but at least the front end doesn't look like it would hit a parking curb anymore lol.  

Here's a before and after pic and then a pic with my trailer on.  Sits nice and level with the trailer. Before is on the bottom.