Jump to content

Level/Wheel/Tire... Help!!

Markdlee

By Markdlee
in Modifications & Accessories

Recommended Posts

EJCarter Enthusiast

EJCarter

Posted
Posted

Check out Central Coast Motorsports (ccmoffroad.com) for a leveling kit. You can just crank the stock keys, but over time I'm a firm believer other parts will wear prematurely. The leveling kit just keeps our CV angles, ball joints, idler arm, etc. a little closer to factory specs. They won't be to factory specs, but closer is happier. A de-cranked lift kit will keep everything as close to factory specs as possible...

 

CCMs leveling kit consists of UCAs, keys, diff drop spacers, and shock extensions. Any quality leveling kit usually consists of the same...

 

I raised the front approx 2" and the rear is stock...the ride only slightly stiffened on the front, but is now more truck like... 

 

I'm running 275/65R20 in BFG's on the stock 20's that are equivalent of about 34.5". No rub's whatsoever... 

Dusk.JPG

Side 2.JPG

Suspension.JPG

  • 1 month later...
b-garage Enthusiast

b-garage

Posted
Posted

I had a 2016 Z71 LTZ. I just cranked the stock keys and raised almost 2" in the front. I ran Kanati 35x12.5 mud hogs on factory 20's. Slight rub at full lock on the sway bar. Rode decent after I got the mud tires on there.  Never got around to adding the shock spacer or UCA's before I traded it in on a 3500hd.  Getting ready to do the same for it too.

  • 3 months later...
426power Enthusiast

426power

Posted
Posted

Guys I just purchased a 2016 HD Z71 6.6 crew cab short bed. I am looking to level the front 1.5 to 2.0", How many turns are you guys putting on the stock keys to obtain this. Also did you have to use shock extenders. I would like to go to a larger tire, but not looking to go to a 35. a 34" would be good for me.  Thanks in advance 

Big Whiskey Senior Enthusiast

Big Whiskey

Posted
Posted
On 6/4/2018 at 6:00 PM, 426power said:

Guys I just purchased a 2016 HD Z71 6.6 crew cab short bed. I am looking to level the front 1.5 to 2.0", How many turns are you guys putting on the stock keys to obtain this. Also did you have to use shock extenders. I would like to go to a larger tire, but not looking to go to a 35. a 34" would be good for me.  Thanks in advance 

Mine is a gasser, but I think 7 turns got me about 1.5" of lift. And yes, shock extenders will be helpful. Make sure to get the front end re-aligned too. 

  • 2 weeks later...
cford716 Enthusiast

cford716

Posted
Posted
On 6/12/2018 at 8:42 AM, jwc10400 said:

General Grabber X3 305/55R20 on Gear 20” wheels. Readlift leveling kit. 

 

 

AB6B4433-9F05-4AA8-B1A5-B0A60E79ADD4.jpeg

8E568652-944C-48A1-96B1-1A58F91F74EF.jpeg

01BD3E77-BBA9-4F41-8423-C1067F64F46C.jpeg

Just had a ReadyLift level kit installed. I have a 2016 2500 with Nitto Terra Grappler G2 275/65/20 on 20x9 Grid GD1 +15mm offset. 

Did you change the upper control arms? Mine only have about 1/4" before hitting the stops. There are signs that they are hitting. The measurements the installer gave from before and after show almost 2.5" raised to level. Steering also seems a little loose.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,964
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BrandonFranceschi
    Newest Member
    BrandonFranceschi
    Joined

  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,486 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      You got that Hengst D110??
    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • parthery
      GM Hard Folding Tonneau by REV review

      By parthery · Posted

      Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...