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2yrs in, rust.

Adamrg

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Adamrg Enthusiast

Adamrg

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Sprayed my truck with fluid film last year, first winter for it.  Crawled up under a couple days ago to spray again for this year- you can definitely tell right where I got lazy last year.  

 

The rest of the truck is pretty rust free, aside from some real light areas on calipers and brackets- not too worried about those areas 

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Buckshot556 Enthusiast

Buckshot556

Posted
Posted

Welcome to the world of GM's bullshit waxed frames. The wax would be a really nice extra layer of protection if they bothered to paint their frames before waxing them....but no, they just dip the bare steel into a wax bath and send them off for assembly.

 

I bought my truck 13 months ago.  During the summer I spent an inordinate amount of time spray painting the frame to create a "shell" over the wax. It worked ok but was largely a futile effort.  I also bought a can (should have bought a case) of Daughberts Nox Rust wax spray. This spray is the same wax that the frames are dipped in.  Great for touch ups.

 

keep an eye on all the leading edges of the frame as anything easily wipes the wax off, including tall grassy fields, rocks and other shit your tires throw up, snow if you take it wheeling in the winter, etc.

 

Also I heard mixed results on fluid film with our trucks. I heard that it actually causes the wax to liquify and thin out.  Just keep an eye.  

 

This summer I'm thinking to scrape off the wax on all the leading edges and replace with Rustoleum underbody spray paint, we'll see.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Adamrg Enthusiast

Adamrg

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4 hours ago, Buckshot556 said:

Welcome to the world of GM's bullshit waxed frames. The wax would be a really nice extra layer of protection if they bothered to paint their frames before waxing them....but no, they just dip the bare steel into a wax bath and send them off for assembly.

 

I bought my truck 13 months ago.  During the summer I spent an inordinate amount of time spray painting the frame to create a "shell" over the wax. It worked ok but was largely a futile effort.  I also bought a can (should have bought a case) of Daughberts Nox Rust wax spray. This spray is the same wax that the frames are dipped in.  Great for touch ups.

 

keep an eye on all the leading edges of the frame as anything easily wipes the wax off, including tall grassy fields, rocks and other shit your tires throw up, snow if you take it wheeling in the winter, etc.

 

Also I heard mixed results on fluid film with our trucks. I heard that it actually causes the wax to liquify and thin out.  Just keep an eye.  

 

This summer I'm thinking to scrape off the wax on all the leading edges and replace with Rustoleum underbody spray paint, we'll see.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yeah I'm not interested in reapplying the same wax that is already on there; the same wax that dries up in months and falls off in chunks.  

The first oil change was due before the first winter so I put it up on the lift, just the lift pads contacting the frame was enough to wipe/smear the wax away, so I had no doubts it wouldn't be around for long.  

As for fluid film thinning out the wax and smearing off- it definitely does.  The fluid film is a semi runny gel/oil type substance though- so where wax disappears, fluid film will fill in.  If I had the time, I'd scrape all the wax off anyways, the stuff hurts more than it helps, no matter who shows up to defend it.   I've seen huge chunks peel off after a few years with a giant rust pocket underneath it.  

4x4Pete Enthusiast

4x4Pete

Posted
Posted

I have used Rust Check underbody coating.  It comes in green or red cans. I use the green. The red seems a lot like aerosol transmission fluid lol.   The green is like a liquified grease it leaches into crevices really well.  It comes in aerosol or a thick liquid  bulk form.  It thickens up to a greasy coating that won't fall off.  Anyways I have used the green on my vehicles for years now. A 2004 2500ld I had needed the rear lower rocker panels painted because of  rock chip damage. I sprayed it with the green and had no rust issues for 2 years until it was painted.  Now it didn't look too good, black greasy areas behind the wheels but it didn't rust at all.  I also use it on all brake and fuel line clamps and fittings, up here these places hold salty water for days and rot out the lines. If you have ever done brake and fuel lines on a 99-06 ttuck you would do whatever you could to prevent corrosion.  My buddy had a 01 that we had to replace the lines on.  He now uses it too.  It does cause some melting of the wax coating on the frame but it still doesn't rust where applied. Of course you will need to re apply as like anything else it can get wiped off by grass mud etc.  I just go over it annually and have no problems.  In the rust belt nothing will work without maintenance even a powder coat will rust throigh.   So it doesn't matter what the manufacturer applied it still needs to be maintained.   Like they say - maintenance pays. 

ewbldavis Enthusiast

ewbldavis

Posted
Posted

I'm getting the Line-X undercoating done in spring. Also having rockers coated in it up to bottom of doors.

 

I'm curious what you all are using to "maintain". I'll have to look into the Rust Check and fluid film. Any other suggestions? You guys just apply these products every fall?

Adamrg Enthusiast

Adamrg

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3 hours ago, ewbldavis said:

 

 

I'm curious what you all are using to "maintain". I'll have to look into the Rust Check and fluid film. Any other suggestions? You guys just apply these products every fall?

I do fluid film, my brother oil sprays.   Both will wash away over the course of the year so it is something that has to be done annually.  No big deal for me, I have the fluid film air gun and just throw up on lift (this year was jackstands in my garage) and spray away.   Total time was about 4hrs start to finish, so not even that time consuming.  Worth it to protect against the nasty brine and salt, if you ask me.  

Adamrg Enthusiast

Adamrg

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7 hours ago, 4x4Pete said:

If you have ever done brake and fuel lines on a 99-06 ttuck you would do whatever you could to prevent corrosion. 

I've not had the pleasure, but my dad has done dozens of them, as well as his own on his old 99.  Not a walk in the park, I hear.  

Buckshot556 Enthusiast

Buckshot556

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the break line tip. I will need to analyze how that system is mounted to the truck to find my lube points.

 

Yes, nothing can stop the salt and brine from rusting the underbody but painted steel is a lot easier to clean up and maintain than the wax coat.  And painted frames prevent getting wax all over yourself while you work on the truck. If GM had ecoated their frame, then wax bathed it, we wouldn't be bothering ourselves with frame rust for 8-10 winters. 

 

 

pogrelis97 Enthusiast

pogrelis97

Posted
Posted

Mine doesn't get driven if there's salt or salt residue on the roads. (hasn't left the shop in 6 weeks) :( Not a good option for most people lol but I'm a little OCD. On my 05 that did get driven year round I always sprayed the frame down with WD-40 after each time I washed it and it seemed to help quite a bit.

RagingRites Enthusiast

RagingRites

Posted
Posted
The spare traps moisture there that's a hard spot even with coating as the spare rubs it off.
Look for a spray of grease coat they sell it with procomp lifts. My whole under carriage is covered it doesnt smear unless you physically attempt to remove it. I have spent some time up north in Minnesota for some of the winter so I've had salt and chloride chemicals they spay on ice and snow covered roads. After returning home Texas and washing my truck the grease cover isnt effected at all and zero rust.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Buckshot556 Enthusiast

Buckshot556

Posted
Posted
On January 16, 2018 at 12:58 PM, BigBadSierra said:

The spare traps moisture there that's a hard spot even with coating as the spare rubs it off.

That's exactly why I bed mounted my spare

Adamrg Enthusiast

Adamrg

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3 hours ago, Buckshot556 said:

That's exactly why I bed mounted my spare

I had and still have thoughts about that. More so because I've seen far too many of those cable mechanisms fail after years of rust and rot, and then when you really need the spare, you end up beating the daylights out of that mechanism. 

I don't use my bed to capacity often, but when I do, I need it, sans a big wheel assy.  Catch 22

sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
Posted
I had and still have thoughts about that. More so because I've seen far too many of those cable mechanisms fail after years of rust and rot, and then when you really need the spare, you end up beating the daylights out of that mechanism. 
I don't use my bed to capacity often, but when I do, I need it, sans a big wheel assy.  Catch 22
Newer assemblies are stainless cables...have put a lot of miles on them in the rust belt, never had one not release.

Steve
2012 2500hd

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