Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Thanks for posting.. I just got a new 2018 2500 hd ltz and need to get my ham radio installed..  It has a remote face so I can put the unit under a seat or something..   this post will help me sort out the wire routing and placement..  Cheers!

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, spiritwalker said:

Thanks for posting.. I just got a new 2018 2500 hd ltz and need to get my ham radio installed..  It has a remote face so I can put the unit under a seat or something..   this post will help me sort out the wire routing and placement..  Cheers!

What radio model do you have? Where are you mounting the remote face?

Posted
1 minute ago, KD5FPV said:

What radio model do you have? Where are you mounting the remote face?

I have a Kenwood TM-V71a..  So far it looks like the best location is going to be near the card holder at the front of the console..  I might have to fab up a custom bracket or something. 

Posted
1 minute ago, spiritwalker said:

I have a Kenwood TM-V71a..  So far it looks like the best location is going to be near the card holder at the front of the console..  I might have to fab up a custom bracket or something. 

I almost bought a used 71a a few months ago. Post up some pics when you get it mounted up!

  • Like 1
Posted
It was a pretty nice weekend here, so I was able to get this job done. I might do something different with how the antenna gets to the radio, and how the power cord gets to the power port.

It took some messing around with the mounting stud to get it grounded right, and then some tuning with the antenna, but, using the SRW built in tuner, I got it pretty close to 1.5 on both channel 1 and 40, the picture shows where it is on 19.

I fished the cable in through the cab vent on the back wall, then fed the cable under the door kick panel. ecc60b1846bca18d130d62d7d91d99da.jpgc75e1a933d298efb5d8e53ae2f5a3c3b.jpgd00ef768cb45352db61459cf1e8906fe.jpge7bcb8376723650f35356537ad0c86e1.jpg99e6cf8a9559f2106f12d3c3559ae55e.jpg75279051480f78a76b8ce25367336b27.jpg439e91793eeb199426b88dfd5f7e90d6.jpg95e1a64792306b54d078f106706200de.jpg

Sent from my BBD100-2 using Tapatalk


Make sure you put a drip loop where it enters the back of the cab or rain will follow the cable into the cab...

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted

Does anyone know what is behind the upper glove box.  I wanted to possible install the CB in there, just cut out the back of it and slip it in.  This way I can close it up when not in use.  Not like that storage box is of any use anyways...lol  But i'm thinking it may be that shallow for a reason.

Posted
4 minutes ago, tooch420 said:

Does anyone know what is behind the upper glove box.  I wanted to possible install the CB in there, just cut out the back of it and slip it in.  This way I can close it up when not in use.  Not like that storage box is of any use anyways...lol  But i'm thinking it may be that shallow for a reason.

Could be wrong but I'd be willing to bet the airbag is directly behind it.

Posted
19 hours ago, KD5FPV said:

Could be wrong but I'd be willing to bet the airbag is directly behind it.

i kinda hoped not...lol   Its a good spot though.  Maybe down in the glove box then..

Posted

anyone thinking of putting one up in the headliner? I was looking at the glasses holder I never use and think it would be a good spot. any ideas how to remove it and get a power cord up there? or is there one there already?

Posted
On 3/16/2018 at 12:12 AM, KD5FPV said:

Could be wrong but I'd be willing to bet the airbag is directly behind it.

can anyone confirm this??

Posted

There should be power up in the top console. If you got the snow plow prep package there is power for a beacon and a switch to turn it on and off. if not use power from courtesy lights.

Posted

91d8a49fab645a1a010ef194f2510181.jpg

216623e47560fa3a2c229ff3c75a162c.jpg

1098e83cbf1b202e9647781d2ac3b393.jpg

6fb81423bbd01fd09b54bb74d0564c16.jpg

I mounted the control head of my Icom 5100 where the sunglass holder is. I can remove it and close the sunglass door as the Ram mount is quick to remove.

The Kenwood TS 480 control head is mounted with another Ram mount in the large cavity in front of the cup holder. I originally had mounted my CTS Edge there but didn’t like it that low so I moved it near the drivers A pillar handle and mounted the radio head here.

The auto-tune panel for the screwdriver antenna is tucked away in the console map pocket unless I’m using the Kenwood ( I stick a piece of Velcro on the dash and stick it on there).

I ran the control cable above the headliner from the radio in the back seat. The power in the overhead console has a very small wire so I ran a larger one to power my dash cam.

The power for the radios came from the upfitter plug by the driver side kick panel.

I ran the coax in the cab through a hole I drilled near the rear seat cabin vent. If you run the coax through the vent the rubber flap will never close.

I hope I was able to give you a few ideas.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 442 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...