Jump to content

Pedal Commander worth it?


Crimson6.2L

Recommended Posts

Posted

Been thinking about getting a pedal commander to help with the throttle response on my 17 6.2L. As much as I would love to tune it right now Im just not in a place where i can do it. Form everything ive seen people seem to say the pedal commander works pretty well but none really with the same truck as me or very recent. Has anyone on here ever had one on a 17 or similar 6.2L? Are they worth what they cost? Any input would be appreciated.

Posted

I'm curious too. Not sure why gm put the lag/play in the pedal, very annoying at low speeds and accelerating from a light. Actually decreases fuel economy because I'm giving it a lot more throttle to try and negate this...

 

Edit*

 

Mind you, this will be corrected with a tune..

Posted

I couldn't tell you about the Pedal Commander but I have a HyperTech 2.0 for my 5.3L.

 

It's an overal programmer that can check codes, change AFM, and a ton of other functions that includes throttle response. I'm very happy with it. I doesn' however, have a module that allows you to change the settings in real-time. You have to preform a flash each time you want to change (no big deal for me because I don't really change the settings)

Posted

I have a Peda Commander in my 6.2 Sierra and like it alot. It isn't game changing but I like that I don't have to mash the pedal nearly as far and it is really quite adjustable.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
4 hours ago, AgDoctor said:

I have a Peda Commander in my 6.2 Sierra and like it alot. It isn't game changing but I like that I don't have to mash the pedal nearly as far and it is really quite adjustable.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What setting do you run it in?

Posted

Just a small suggestion:  Before you spend a lot of money, try out this idea and see if it affects the throttle lag you're having.  It's practically free and will do no harm; couldn't hurt and might help.

 

 

Posted

My wife's 17 Yukon Denali 6.2 has a more aggressive tip in throttle which is what led me to get this. If I didn't drive them both and prefer her throttle map I may have never ordered the device. I like it and would do it again. It is easy to install and not detectable by the dealer unless they find it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
1 hour ago, BigBlueLB756 said:

Just a small suggestion:  Before you spend a lot of money, try out this idea and see if it affects the throttle lag you're having.  It's practically free and will do no harm; couldn't hurt and might help.

 

 

I have adjustable pedals from what I’ve read on here they don’t cause it

 

 

just went and checked and that’s not the case at all I have a ton of movement 

Posted

Cut a piece of rubber and put behind the bracket and it removed the flex. Still want to get the pedal commander though. This helped but it’s still not what I would like. 

Posted

Vitesse does the same thing for less cost.  Its popular with the vette/camaro guys.  Been thinking about getting this but with one yr left on my powertrain, I'm just going to hold out and get a tune soon.

 

As many of these controllers that are out there, I wouldn't be surprised if someone hasn't reverse-engineered and open sourced them.  They gotta be stupid easy to make.  Its ridiculous to pay $2-300 for these silly trinkets.

 

Another thing you can do is have the throttle body ported.  On the 5.3 theres not much "lip", but on 6.2s there is.  Supposed to help throttle response and gain a smidgen of hp/tq.  Easy to swap if you go in for warranty work.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I have the Vitesse on my 2016 silverado with a 6.2 and I can tell you it's DEFINITELY  worth it. My other truck is a 1998 standard cab long box with a vortec 5.7 with a Black Bear tune and a ported throttle body that is operated by a cable, not drive-by-wire

 

and the throttle response is ABSOLUTELY INSTANT. Switching back and forth between these trucks made me realize how tremendously terrible these newer truck's throttles are. I got a Diablosport intune so I could turn off AFM and found on it there is

 

also a setting called throttle boost. After turning throttle boost up to 20 (max setting), throttle response  was better but not good enough. Then I read reviews on how much better ported throttle body's are for throttle response, so I got one from Katech

 

for $230. Not much difference at all, much less than I was expecting. Then I got the Vitesse throttle device because it was 100 or so dollars cheaper then a sprint booster, and that made all the difference in the world. Truck is sooooo way better to drive 

 

now and on the very hilly rural back roads that I drive it was completely impossible to maintain a relatively steady speed with the factory throttle having to chase the throttle up and down so much. Now it's very easy to maintain a relatively steady speed.

 

When I first got it I had the setting too high and kept accidentally barking the tires driving through town and leaving stop signs so I just kept turning the setting down until I stopped accidentally barking tires and now the throttle response is nearly as good 

 

as my 1998's. If I was going to do it all over again, I would not get the Diablosport (garbage in my opinion), or the ported throttle body (nice quality but not much bang for the buck), and just get the Vitesse throttle booster

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Guys, I apologize if I’m asking a question that is elementary but I am not mechanical savvy. I have read EVERY POST in this thread. All 20 pages. I just went out to check my 2019 Chevy Tahoe Z71 and it looks different than the photos on here. I feel some flexing but I’m not sure where my fix is for this. I went all the way to the President of GM North America with the lag throttle issue. It took me two months and it still didn’t help me any. I had the Tahoe less than a week when I notified my dealer and then corporate and they wouldn’t even let me return it with less than 150 miles on it. Anyway, if you can help me with this or tell me if one of the attachments that reduces lag and increase gas mileage works better. If so, which model as there are several to choose from. 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
    • It is possible to add your own 12v outlet to your truck.  Check out this video:   I verified via GM Upfitters that pin 31 is the same on the 1500 trucks.  The wire is GM part number 84779405.   You can get the GM 12v outlet from Amazon  https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Accessory-Receptacle-25774623-13549530/dp/B0F1H9YRGF EWAY 12 Volt Power Adapter for GM   https://www.amazon.com/EWAY-Chevrolet-Silverado-Cigarette-Ignition/dp/B0915RRW6Q/ref=sr_1_1?   I just haven't figured out a good place to put the 12v outlet in my truck.   Some people are getting USB-C to 12V adapters  https://www.amazon.com/WYMECT-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Adapter/dp/B0F87WNQKB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa? Not sure if they provide the correct amperage that a device like a tire inflator would need.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...