Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
Not sure why some choose to keep a razor thin margin for error in these not inexpensive machines. The 0w-20 spec was made to save .1 mpg for federal mandate and not to tow a trailer up a hill at 70 in the heat. Put in thicker oil of your choice or risk it all its your choice. Do a Used Oil Analysis on this fill and see if there are some bearing metals in the oil. As the bearings wear the pressure will get even lower accelerating the wear. Good luck


Well said. I’ve started using the mobile one annual 0W20 oil, changing out every 4K. A bit more expensive but my reasoning for using this oil is cause it’s got much more protection added to it, I could be wrong but I don’t tow anything other than bigger tires [emoji6]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

What was the oil pressure when it was brand new? My bet is that it hasn't changed from that. If the sending unit is out of calibration and/or the gauge, you'll get lower than typical readings both at idle and at speed. You didn't say what the pressure is at cruising speed around 1,500-1,700 RPM either. You should expect that to be about 40, maybe a bit less. The best way to determine the "actual" oil pressure is to use a mechanical oil pressure gauge and test it.

Posted
How much above 20?I would love for mine to be above 20.my we 2016 5.3 stayed above 20. But not by much. 

I am a little concerned about it. But I hear no engine noise at all. I know dealer will say Normal

 

You should be and that’s why I said run to the service dealership while you’re still under warranty. Ok, I’m hanging outside and stopped everything I was doing just to get in the truck and snap this for you.

 

 

08ceb81f1c93b72fe3104fc3525bacbc.jpg

4c07f4c21666466018d10021d3a112ee.jpg

 

Looks to me that 30 is about average and as you can see it’s all warmed up just back from a 35mile commute

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
26 minutes ago, '17 Sierra said:

What was the oil pressure when it was brand new? My bet is that it hasn't changed from that. If the sending unit is out of calibration and/or the gauge, you'll get lower than typical readings both at idle and at speed. You didn't say what the pressure is at cruising speed around 1,500-1,700 RPM either. You should expect that to be about 40, maybe a bit less. The best way to determine the "actual" oil pressure is to use a mechanical oil pressure gauge and test it.

Cruising is about 35.if I lightly put my foot on the gas and bring the rpm up around 700 it goes pretty much to 30. But my engine idles around 500 550 rpm. I can't remember what the pressure was last year when it was new. I know it was around 20 than too but not sure if it ever went below 20

Posted
21 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 

You should be and that’s why I said run to the service dealership while you’re still under warranty. Ok, I’m hanging outside and stopped everything I was doing just to get in the truck and snap this for you.

 

 

08ceb81f1c93b72fe3104fc3525bacbc.jpg

4c07f4c21666466018d10021d3a112ee.jpg

 

Looks to me that 30 is about average and as you can see it’s all warmed up just back from a 35mile commute

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What's your rpm? Mine is lower in gear since the rpm is lower. In park it's above 2020180814_190133.thumb.jpg.6d1bc7a3ef48c2479911685556679a81.jpg

Posted
4 minutes ago, ltzsilverado said:

Cruising is about 35.if I lightly put my foot on the gas and bring the rpm up around 700 it goes pretty much to 30. But my engine idles around 500 550 rpm. I can't remember what the pressure was last year when it was new. I know it was around 20 than too but not sure if it ever went below 20

For peace of mind you might want to stop at the dealer but I promise you they'll say it's normal. The fact that you're below 40 (closer to 35) at speed and you're below 20 at idle is a pretty good confirmation that your sending unit or your gauge is off. That's why I asked you what it was when it was new. If you're losing main bearings or cam bearings, it would have started out higher when it was new and dropped significantly by now. Mine reads a bit below 40; probably 37 cruising and the secondary stage pulls it past 75 over 3,500 RPM. Have you checked pressure at that RPM? Seriously, you're okay.

Posted
For peace of mind you might want to stop at the dealer but I promise you they'll say it's normal. The fact that you're below 40 (closer to 35) at speed and you're below 20 at idle is a pretty good confirmation that your sending unit or your gauge is off. That's why I asked you what it was when it was new. If you're losing main bearings or cam bearings, it would have started out higher when it was new and dropped significantly by now. Mine reads a bit below 40; probably 37 cruising and the secondary stage pulls it past 75 over 3,500 RPM. Have you checked pressure at that RPM? Seriously, you're okay.


He’s at 20 not 30. He needs to first check his oil level and if it’s full then haul ass to the dealership!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
What's your rpm? Mine is lower in gear since the rpm is lower. In park it's above 2020180814_190133.thumb.jpg.6d1bc7a3ef48c2479911685556679a81.jpg


It’s right at or above 40 at cruising speed and a bit higher at highway speeds.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Tell you what, I’ll check on it tomorrow. What state are you in?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
1 hour ago, '17 Sierra said:

What was the oil pressure when it was brand new? My bet is that it hasn't changed from that. If the sending unit is out of calibration and/or the gauge, you'll get lower than typical readings both at idle and at speed. You didn't say what the pressure is at cruising speed around 1,500-1,700 RPM either. You should expect that to be about 40, maybe a bit less. The best way to determine the "actual" oil pressure is to use a mechanical oil pressure gauge and test it.

Mine has been low since day one.  And every part has been microed.   I originally posted to reassure the OP.  I haven't worried about it yet but now you guys got me curious.  

Posted
Mine has been low since day one.  And every part has been microed.   I originally posted to reassure the OP.  I haven't worried about it yet but now you guys got me curious.  


Are you in Texas?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
6 hours ago, TXGREEK said:

 


He’s at 20 not 30. He needs to first check his oil level and if it’s full then haul ass to the dealership!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

If his oil level was too low, he’d be getting fluctuations; the gauge would be moving up and down while at a steady RPM. Check engine light would come on and the fuel pump would be shut down to kill the motor.

O.P., save yourself a trip to the dealer to be told that it’s fine. You’re good for sure.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,691 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I’m definitely interested to hear the end result here. 
    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...