Level, Shackles or Remove Rear Block?

[Paul_Aris]

I would like to get some larger rims and tires abd level mine. But because I tow the stock rack seems pretty nice when towing my trailer so not sure what to do other than spend even more and but helper bags on the rear


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[jegreenwood14]

22 hours ago, iPhonez71 said:

In my opinion, I think you should not go back to stock. I think everyone should have their pickups level like your. It not only looks better but performs better. GM pickup’s suspension design as stock somehow coincidence once a while when both front and rear tires hit certain pavement surface will produce harmonic resonance like music instruments. It is difficult to reproduce the harmonic resonance because it depends on the surface and points of tire contact and transferring. For us, we define it as shake and vibration but in reality it is harmonic vibration mostly generated from leaf springs. To reduce harmonic resonance by either dampen the vibration transferring material like steel leaf springs or disrupting the vibration by shifting it positions. One way is to level both front and rear. You have done that and reduced the percentage of harmonic vibrations. Why would you want to restore it back to stock? 

 

Can't tell if you're trolling or not, with the comparison to harmonic resonance LMAO... but I have never had a shake.  The only thing similar to the shake/vibration, was caused by 10 ply tires I had on there, which made the truck ride rougher at any speed.  I actually just swapped tires out yesterday, and went back to my old 32s for ride comfort, and since I was thinking of dropping it back down to stock.  If I went back to stock, I would do a shackle drop in the rear or pull the rear block to help "level" it and reach that nirvana of harmonic vibration 

[iPhonez71]

1 hour ago, jegreenwood14 said:

 

Can't tell if you're trolling or not, with the comparison to harmonic resonance LMAO... but I have never had a shake.  The only thing similar to the shake/vibration, was caused by 10 ply tires I had on there, which made the truck ride rougher at any speed.  I actually just swapped tires out yesterday, and went back to my old 32s for ride comfort, and since I was thinking of dropping it back down to stock.  If I went back to stock, I would do a shackle drop in the rear or pull the rear block to help "level" it and reach that nirvana of harmonic vibration 

Have you watched 1940 Tacoma Bridge collapse? It was caused by harmonic resonant vibration. The resonant frequency causes the bridge to oscillate uncontrollably. 

Most of us not aware of shake and vibration until was complaining from GM owners. Once a while I experienced shake and vibration but I had a hard time to duplicate the experience on the same segment of roadway. I don’t experience shake and vibration if my tires are deflated or I carry or tow a heavy load. 

[kevinfranklin]

On 8/16/2018 at 11:39 AM, goeb34 said:

I did it at my buddys house and his driveway was weird so we jacked up under the leaf springs just enough to get the tire off the ground (one side at a time) and loosen the u bolts and slide the block out and tighten the ubolts back down, we just used a milwaukee impact

So could you tell if you were about to "run out of thread" towards the top of the U-bolts after removing the blocks?  It looks like it might be close, but then again I think plenty of folks have done it, so it's probably fine. 

[goeb34]

So could you tell if you were about to "run out of thread" towards the top of the U-bolts after removing the blocks?  It looks like it might be close, but then again I think plenty of folks have done it, so it's probably fine. 

I didnt have a problem with it

[Grumpy Bear]

Washers? 

[jegreenwood14]

On 8/16/2018 at 3:32 PM, goeb34 said:

no issues at all

So you have a stock front end and removed the rear blocks?  Pic seems like the front is leveled, but wasn't sure if you had a small spacer in there plus the blocks gone.

[langston1726]

In general, automobile platform design as level as possible. However, most of the weight are concentrated at front suspension resulting the front end tends to be lower than the rear. We often think it is for aerodynamic, but I beg the argument. Normally, front tires are wearing out faster than rear because of turning movement from steering; however, they normally wear ou uneventful. Therefore, it is recommended to rotate tires. If suspension is lower than design then both tires are angled like an “A” and if lifting higher than design then both tires are angled like a “V”. Having said that, every time a suspension is lifted up or lower down, it has to be re-alignment. Anyhow, if both front and rear are level as design then both tires are angled like a “U” regardless of the angles from the racks and pinions. They typically are designed as horizontal; however, it will have a positive angle if it is lower and negative angle if it is raised measuring from horizontal point of view. 

  If removing the 1.25” factory block puts the pinion angle out of tolerance then there wouldn’t be multiple aftermarket companies making 4” + lift blocks.  I just removed mine with a 2” level. The front is now about .25” higher which I’m okay with. So far the rear seems to absorb the bumps a little better now.

 

 

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[iPhonez71]

1 hour ago, langston1726 said:

  If removing the 1.25” factory block puts the pinion angle out of tolerance then there wouldn’t multiple aftermarket companies making 4” + lift blocks.  

I just removed mine with a 2” level. The front is now about .25” higher which I’m okay with. So far the rear seems to absorb the bumps a little better now.

 

 

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Your pickup looks great, and with a driver and passengers, the front end will level out perfectly. I like lifting truck. 

[jegreenwood14]

3 hours ago, langston1726 said:

  If removing the 1.25” factory block puts the pinion angle out of tolerance then there wouldn’t multiple aftermarket companies making 4” + lift blocks.  

I just removed mine with a 2” level. The front is now about .25” higher which I’m okay with. So far the rear seems to absorb the bumps a little better now.

 

 

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Yea, I am going to drop my blocks now, lol.  Mine sits about a half inch low in the front, so if I pull the back, it should end up a half inch high in the front.  I don't tow anything, so I think I will try it out.  I also might end up going back down to stock height if the rear drops enough.

[iPhonez71]

3 hours ago, jegreenwood14 said:

Yea, I am going to drop my blocks now, lol.  Mine sits about a half inch low in the front, so if I pull the back, it should end up a half inch high in the front.  I don't tow anything, so I think I will try it out.  I also might end up going back down to stock height if the rear drops enough.

There are 2 ways to leveling both the front and rear ends of your pickup. (1) You can drop the rear or (2) raise the front.  (1) Dropping the rear method is easier since it doesn’t require special tools and technique especially no alignment is required. However, oem shocks are longer. Default distance is shorter from absorbing shocks movement tolerance can cause more bouncing. Replacing with appropriate length of shocks may require. (2) Raising the front struts is difficult by adding 2.5” spacers and requires re-alignment. Replace new shocks are not necessary. I prefer raising the front end to level the whole truck method. It provides more options such as by adding side steps, adding larger wheels and tires, reduce the need to jack up the truck to change engine or transmission oils. It looks better especially when loading heavy loads. Some people feel superior by sitting higher on the roads looking down at minions. Some people like the height clearance to mount curb ramps, uneven pavement, and rough terrain. Some people may have thought law enforcement can be discouraged to climb up a six feet high lifted pickups. You got my drift? The list goes on.

[jegreenwood14]

11 hours ago, iPhonez71 said:

There are 2 ways to leveling both the front and rear ends of your pickup. (1) You can drop the rear or (2) raise the front.  (1) Dropping the rear method is easier since it doesn’t require special tools and technique especially no alignment is required. However, oem shocks are longer. Default distance is shorter from absorbing shocks movement tolerance can cause more bouncing. Replacing with appropriate length of shocks may require. (2) Raising the front struts is difficult by adding 2.5” spacers and requires re-alignment. Replace new shocks are not necessary. I prefer raising the front end to level the whole truck method. It provides more options such as by adding side steps, adding larger wheels and tires, reduce the need to jack up the truck to change engine or transmission oils. It looks better especially when loading heavy loads. Some people feel superior by sitting higher on the roads looking down at minions. Some people like the height clearance to mount curb ramps, uneven pavement, and rough terrain. Some people may have thought law enforcement can be discouraged to climb up a six feet high lifted pickups. You got my drift? The list goes on.

 

Yea, I am already leveled in the front.  Have a 2" spacer.  Have always wanted to drop the blocks, because I am about .25" higher in the rear right now.  If the rear dropped enough, I'd consider taking the front spacer off and going stock.  Might save the ride a little bit.  I go back and forth between "I like the stiff ride with a spacer.  Rides like a truck!" and "Damn, this thing rides like a wooden wagon", LOL.

[iPhonez71]

31 minutes ago, jegreenwood14 said:

 

Yea, I am already leveled in the front.  Have a 2" spacer.  Have always wanted to drop the blocks, because I am about .25" higher in the rear right now.  If the rear dropped enough, I'd consider taking the front spacer off and going stock.  Might save the ride a little bit.  I go back and forth between "I like the stiff ride with a spacer.  Rides like a truck!" and "Damn, this thing rides like a wooden wagon", LOL.

You have a lot of times to go back and forth. ?. Your truck is fine and proper because the front end should be about 0.25” higher than the rear when parking. When you get to drive including  additional  passengers, the front end either will level with the rear or resulting with about  0.25”/1.0” lower than the rear end depending on total additional weight. 

Add spacers to the front is better than removing a block in the rear. Have you ever towed a flat bed utility trailer empty? It bounces a lot without added weight (additional weight reduces bouncing) and because there is no shock absorber. When you remove the blocks from the rear, it will bounce more than factory design. Save some time to learn how to change alternator, starter, water pump, belt, and transmission fluid as most people don’t bother to do it, or let the experts do it for them. Once you are not afraid to do most/or all the repairs, you have mastered the art form from a perspective of GM.