Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

So I went in to have seatbelt tensioner recall done and the backup camera updated so that it doesn't wash out at night with the reverse lights. About two weeks prior to this my backup camera became fuzzy/Staticky.

Just a heads up to anyone that has this static problem, it was caused by a cell phone charger in the console port. Not the usb ones but the 12 volt charger port.  They showed me the service bulletin and sure enough when I use the cheap CVS charger in that spot the camera gets static.

Talk about an easy fix. There was tons of talk online about camera wire, moisture etc. Nope. Cheap charger.

Just FYI for those with same problem.

 

Jim

Edited by jcgib81
  • 1 year later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Mine has turned from HD into something that has a wired antenna on the back of the TV.  I don't have any of those chargers in my truck.   I will probably check it again and see if it resets.

Posted

I had this same issue and it was my after market LED headlight bulbs. After getting the camera replaced and it not correcting the issue I for some reason thought to turn off the headlights and check it one morning. That was it. Put the factory bulbs back in and perfect ! 

  • 11 months later...
Posted

Hi,

 

I know this is kinda an old thread, but I wonder on a Colorado with a Leer tonneau cap on, maybe the wiring from that is causing my rear camera picture to be fuzzy? 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Indeed a proper drain tap or drain valve with adapter that has a hose on it that opens up the valve as the adapter goes on is a slick setup and have that for certain highway tractors etc and other equipment that came from the factory with a tap but this L8T is pretty darned good other than me doing it on the floor and easy to touch hot exhaust and am not as agile as I used to be !. If I really want to pull a hot filter on an engine I will use an insulated set of thick neoprene gauntlet gloves but I am not in the hurry I used to need to be so things are done more relaxed and in theory somewhat safer ... I think LOL.    And as I mentioned the unique shape of the Amsoil 1 quart containers, while they might not work as well as an offset pour spout container for some awkward engine location applications, they are working a lot better with my Lisle funnel kit because of how they prop up on all four corners when upside down resting on the rim of the funnel where the typical quart container would never stay put without holding onto it. 
    • Well, I just hit 100K a few weeks back, and I can honestly say I have not had any major issues with my '21 5.3 Crew cab.  I have done most routine maintenance, oil changes, air filter, tire rotations, and a transmission drain and filter change (not even a full flush).  A couple of months ago, I started experiencing the dreaded CLUNK when coming to a stop, sometimes hard enough to literally push the truck forward! After researching here and in other forums/youtube videos, etc, I was thinking it's the slip yoke. I finally had a chance to take it to my local mechanic today, and he was not able to recreate the issue.  Amazing, since it does it nearly every time I drive.  He also said he can't simply grease my slip yoke/driveshaft splines, because I have a 1 piece driveshaft.  I am not sure what else I can do.  Has anyone else had this issue or have any idea what else it could be?
    • This is where the Fumoto drain valve comes in handy.  No mess and able to change oil hot, like right off the interstate hot.  Flows nice and you can direct it into a container. As for the oil filter, I use an old dixie cup or plastic one from McDonalds. It contains the oil as you pull the filter down and not all over your hand.
    • Well, if it did change from lifters to rocker arms, at least it would be easier to fix as they fail.
    • Doesn't hurt to try.  It's my understanding that you have to run it at least 4 or 5 oil changes for things to get clean.  Think about it, your engine didn't get dirty in just an oil change so over time it will slowly clean. It's the safest way to do it and not have seal issues.      I remember  a product that came out a long time ago, AutoRX, it was an additive you put in the oil and then drove for 3k miles. Some saw improvements and some didn't. It was suggested to use a non synthetic with it at the time. Same observation, use a couple oil changes and give it time to work. It also stated it worked best if you could drive on trips to keep the oil hot.  I'm sure if you ask AI it could tell you all about it.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...