Jump to content

Rounded off Brake Bleeder screw

dave07

Recommended Posts

dave07 Enthusiast

dave07

Posted
Posted

I went to bleed the brakes on my 2015 Silverado 1500. Started with passenger rear and was able to get them bleed out but almost rounded the hex until it wouldn’t close. Moved on to the driver side same result, except couldn’t get this one closed as it got completely rounded. The screws are super tight!

 

I ended up ordering some new bleeder screws and will probably end up changing both sides. I’m pissed that this is happening on a 3 year old truck, never had such issues when bleeding brakes! I just hope I can get the old screws out, or it looks like I’ll be getting some new calipers.

 

Anyone else having this issue? Any tips?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Snowcamo Senior Enthusiast

Snowcamo

Posted
Posted

Yes, darn near rounded off the passenger side. Couple light taps with a hammer loosened it up. Likely end up using vise grips if you cannot get it free. Of course me having the correct size box wrench would of helped lol.

Sent from my LG-LS993 using Tapatalk

frenchsquared Enthusiast

frenchsquared

Posted
Posted

you can get them out with vice grips. Most likely you need a set of the proper wrenches. I used a 6 point socket to losen them the first time on new cars. 

300 Blackout Enthusiast

300 Blackout

Posted
Posted

I replaced 3 of my 4 calipers because the bleeder screws were seized. The one that I finally got to open needed to be replaced because I damaged it so much. I tried all the tricks from a torch and ice water to penetrating lube to hitting it with a hammer. Very irritating.

dave07 Enthusiast

dave07

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I replaced 3 of my 4 calipers because the bleeder screws were seized. The one that I finally got to open needed to be replaced because I damaged it so much. I tried all the tricks from a torch and ice water to penetrating lube to hitting it with a hammer. Very irritating.

Wow! Makes me not want to touch the fronts at all now. I was getting them to rotate with a 6 point socket but that doesn’t help me to bleed them. But at least I think I can get them out with a bolt extractor. Crazy!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Mike GMC Enthusiast

Mike GMC

Posted
Posted

Does GM use lock tight from the factory to help them seal?  That might explain why they are so tight initially.  If the 6 point socket works, you can break them free with that, use a box end wrench to bleed and then final tighten with the socket again.

 

If you have line wrenches, that might work as well.

badge171 Enthusiast

badge171

Posted
Posted

If you tried heat from a torch , your not using the right torch , or enough heat. enough heat, vise grips if you destroyed the bleeders. The correct tool if not. Heat the surrounding area not the bleeder. The small tip on an Oxy- acetylene  torch set so you can direct the heat. Get it while its hot.

300 Blackout Enthusiast

300 Blackout

Posted
Posted
If you tried heat from a torch , your not using the right torch , or enough heat. enough heat, vise grips if you destroyed the bleeders. The correct tool if not. Heat the surrounding area not the bleeder. The small tip on an Oxy- acetylene  torch set so you can direct the heat. Get it while its hot.

Great points. It was only a propane torch and I did try heating around the bleeder rather than the part itself. You may very well be correct that the amount of heat was insufficient.
300 Blackout Enthusiast

300 Blackout

Posted
Posted

Wow! Makes me not want to touch the fronts at all now. I was getting them to rotate with a 6 point socket but that doesn’t help me to bleed them. But at least I think I can get them out with a bolt extractor. Crazy!

My truck had some major corrosion problems when I purchased it used. Lived it’s life up there with the Penguins in Canada and a steady diet of calcium chloride chewed everything up. The bleeders themselves are cheap. Just remove the old ones and replace them with new bleeders. You might be surprised to find chunks of rust flush out once the bleeder is removed.
dave07 Enthusiast

dave07

Posted
  • Author
Posted

My truck had some major corrosion problems when I purchased it used. Lived it’s life up there with the Penguins in Canada and a steady diet of calcium chloride chewed everything up. The bleeders themselves are cheap. Just remove the old ones and replace them with new bleeders. You might be surprised to find chunks of rust flush out once the bleeder is removed.

Yea they rust a lot quicker up in Canada! The underbody on my truck is pretty good. Not a lot of rust. I’m just hoping I can get the old bleeder out and not snap it off in the caliper. Did you by chance use any of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QW6K8I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UUz7BbN42NCRY?

I have had great luck with them in the past.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
dave07 Enthusiast

dave07

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Use a line wrench next time and you wont round them. 
 
 
71%2Bj-zC4pLL._SL1333_.jpg

Yea I went ahead and bought a 10mm brake bleeder wrench. Which is a 6 point wrench that is offset. I should be ok now (hopefully)!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 1 Anonymous, 325 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      2 speed transfer case optional now?

      By newdude · Posted

      This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • newdude
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By newdude · Posted

      2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Grumpy Bear
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Coastie05
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Go back to OEM wheels. 
    • newdude
      2020 Trailboss 6.2 replacement

      By newdude · Posted

      Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...