Rounded off Brake Bleeder screw

[dave07]

I went to bleed the brakes on my 2015 Silverado 1500. Started with passenger rear and was able to get them bleed out but almost rounded the hex until it wouldn’t close. Moved on to the driver side same result, except couldn’t get this one closed as it got completely rounded. The screws are super tight!

 

I ended up ordering some new bleeder screws and will probably end up changing both sides. I’m pissed that this is happening on a 3 year old truck, never had such issues when bleeding brakes! I just hope I can get the old screws out, or it looks like I’ll be getting some new calipers.

 

Anyone else having this issue? Any tips?

 

 

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[Snowcamo]

Yes, darn near rounded off the passenger side. Couple light taps with a hammer loosened it up. Likely end up using vise grips if you cannot get it free. Of course me having the correct size box wrench would of helped lol.

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[frenchsquared]

you can get them out with vice grips. Most likely you need a set of the proper wrenches. I used a 6 point socket to losen them the first time on new cars. 

[300 Blackout]

I replaced 3 of my 4 calipers because the bleeder screws were seized. The one that I finally got to open needed to be replaced because I damaged it so much. I tried all the tricks from a torch and ice water to penetrating lube to hitting it with a hammer. Very irritating.

[dave07]

I replaced 3 of my 4 calipers because the bleeder screws were seized. The one that I finally got to open needed to be replaced because I damaged it so much. I tried all the tricks from a torch and ice water to penetrating lube to hitting it with a hammer. Very irritating.

Wow! Makes me not want to touch the fronts at all now. I was getting them to rotate with a 6 point socket but that doesn’t help me to bleed them. But at least I think I can get them out with a bolt extractor. Crazy!


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[Mike GMC]

Does GM use lock tight from the factory to help them seal?  That might explain why they are so tight initially.  If the 6 point socket works, you can break them free with that, use a box end wrench to bleed and then final tighten with the socket again.

 

If you have line wrenches, that might work as well.

[badge171]

If you tried heat from a torch , your not using the right torch , or enough heat. enough heat, vise grips if you destroyed the bleeders. The correct tool if not. Heat the surrounding area not the bleeder. The small tip on an Oxy- acetylene  torch set so you can direct the heat. Get it while its hot.

[300 Blackout]

If you tried heat from a torch , your not using the right torch , or enough heat. enough heat, vise grips if you destroyed the bleeders. The correct tool if not. Heat the surrounding area not the bleeder. The small tip on an Oxy- acetylene  torch set so you can direct the heat. Get it while its hot.

Great points. It was only a propane torch and I did try heating around the bleeder rather than the part itself. You may very well be correct that the amount of heat was insufficient.

[300 Blackout]

Does GM use lock tight from the factory to help them seal? 

I didn’t see any thread locker on mine.

[300 Blackout]

Wow! Makes me not want to touch the fronts at all now. I was getting them to rotate with a 6 point socket but that doesn’t help me to bleed them. But at least I think I can get them out with a bolt extractor. Crazy!

My truck had some major corrosion problems when I purchased it used. Lived it’s life up there with the Penguins in Canada and a steady diet of calcium chloride chewed everything up. The bleeders themselves are cheap. Just remove the old ones and replace them with new bleeders. You might be surprised to find chunks of rust flush out once the bleeder is removed.

[dave07]

My truck had some major corrosion problems when I purchased it used. Lived it’s life up there with the Penguins in Canada and a steady diet of calcium chloride chewed everything up. The bleeders themselves are cheap. Just remove the old ones and replace them with new bleeders. You might be surprised to find chunks of rust flush out once the bleeder is removed.

Yea they rust a lot quicker up in Canada! The underbody on my truck is pretty good. Not a lot of rust. I’m just hoping I can get the old bleeder out and not snap it off in the caliper. Did you by chance use any of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QW6K8I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UUz7BbN42NCRY?

I have had great luck with them in the past.


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[L86 All Terrain]

Use a line wrench next time and you wont round them. 

 

 

[dave07]

Use a line wrench next time and you wont round them. 
 
 

Yea I went ahead and bought a 10mm brake bleeder wrench. Which is a 6 point wrench that is offset. I should be ok now (hopefully)!


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[Supreme Pizza]

This tool will prevent any "rounding" of the bleeder. 

 

 

 

[Supreme Pizza]

This tool will easily remove any rounded bleeder. (one way or the other)