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Posted

but the button won't deactivate DFM. And until I'm confident that the lifter issue is actually resolved I'll likely always drive in L9. But it's not just about that, it's also the fact that I wanted an 8 cylinder truck beneath me. Not something that runs on as few as 4 just to squeeze another mpg out of it. If I wanted a Civic I would have bought one.

Posted (edited)

It doesn't matter if you drive around in L9 or get the DFM deactivater the components are still being used just not working. Back when the bad virus of lifter failure was happening people ran around in L9 and had the eliminater and still had lifter failure due to the manufacturer of the lifters and components didn't properly heat treat the lifters and components. The bad run of the lifters was September 2020 to March of 2021 engine build date not the truck build date.

Edited by Silverado4x4
  • Like 1
Posted

I understand that. However my truck had 35 miles on it when I bought it. If it ever was driven in DFM it wasn't for long. And while the parts are capable of performing in that mode, if they are not, then it is possible that since they are not used in a collapsed state it might not put the strain on them that may have played a part in the failures of those that did fail. I know I probably have the wrong understanding of exactly how the lifters work, (ie collapsed vs. pumped up), but they are two disinctly different modes nonetheless.

I don't just drive that way when I remember, I've never driven my truck in DFM, ever, for peace of mind whether it be mistakenly so or not. And again, as I said it's also a matter of not wanting to have a 2/4/6/8 cylinder motor. If I could have bought a non-DFM version of my truck I would have exercised that option to start with.

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I wonder if those "hitch brake lights" plugged in would accomplish what we want ?

Posted
On 11/17/2023 at 3:25 PM, TrueBlue said:

Thanks. I'm getting pretty good now with remembering to turn it off on the center stack before it has a chance to kick in.

In addition to what redwngr listed above, the manaul also states (Page 230 on mine): If equipped, the Stop/Start system will become unavailable when Tow/Haul Mode is active.
I don't know if the system will be disabled if a pigtail is attached to the plug or not. In order to know for sure, a dummy connector could be used, but also it would have to be under a condition which does not exist in redwngr's list above, and the truck is not in Tow/Haul mode. I don't think I'm going to try it, for several reasons; I don't want to leave the cap up on the trailer plug housing, I don't want to drive around with a dummy plug attached, and I've gotten pretty good at remembering to turn off the switch manually now. One of the differences between our trucks and other vehicles I've had with stop/start is that the others had this switch down by the driver's knee, and for me at least, out of sight meant out of mind, until the stupid system stopped the engine. Also, I'm hoping that Range will eventually come out with a disabler.

Will leaving the truck in tow/haul full time cause any problems?

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