Jump to content

Where's the PCV Valve? 2015 5.3L


agraves138

Recommended Posts

Posted
19 minutes ago, SS502 said:

When you get all done can you post pictures? I’ve already seen your other pics and you were going to add more to your setup. Just would like to see the complete setup when you’re done if you don’t mind showing it.

I'm working on it this weekend. I have a smaller centrafugal separator off a small motorcycle, gonna try it out and see how it works , but I think the larger xr600 unit would be more appropriate. I will post pix up soon. so far my valve cover vent filter is doing its job.. but yes all the nastyness if straight from the pcv port.. 

Posted
6 minutes ago, flyingfool said:

got it mounted in a decent spot, next to hook up lines.

 

 

555.jpg

Making great progress! That’s where mine is being moved to. I live in a very warm weather climate so not concerned about utilizing engine heat to counter the condensation some people deal with.

9A28DA15-D51C-4E0D-96E9-FD3034013D52.jpeg

Posted

ok I'm finished, total cost on the PCV catch filter is $8 for cyclone trap + $10 for braided  tubing+ $2.50 brass drain plug = $22.50 

drove 15 miles and the drain hose is coated with oil so i can see the trap is working.. 

 

anyone interested the PCV separator is off a 1981 c70 Honda Passport , ebay motors for the part...

 

I have to say the valve covers work well on thier own, very little oil is captured by my secondary cyclone trap, I might go back to stock connection to the airbox just to clean things up under the hood. I'm sure if It was under boost or lots of high revving I would see more oil passing through the valve covers. but stock seems alright from what I see

 

IMG-2889.JPG

IMG-2890 (1).JPG

IMG-2889.JPG

Posted
3 hours ago, flyingfool said:

ok I'm finished, total cost on the PCV catch filter is $8 for cyclone trap + $10 for braided  tubing+ $2.50 brass drain plug = $22.50 

drove 15 miles and the drain hose is coated with oil so i can see the trap is working.. 

 

anyone interested the PCV separator is off a 1981 c70 Honda Passport , ebay motors for the part...

 

I have to say the valve covers work well on thier own, very little oil is captured by my secondary cyclone trap, I might go back to stock connection to the airbox just to clean things up under the hood. I'm sure if It was under boost or lots of high revving I would see more oil passing through the valve covers. but stock seems alright from what I see

 

IMG-2889.JPG

IMG-2890 (1).JPG

IMG-2889.JPG

Thank you for the update!

  • 1 year later...
Posted

I am interested in how the cyclone-style PCV trap ("catch can") works considering the change in application motor.  As most of you know PCV stands for "positive crankcase ventilation", which means the flow should be inwards of filtered air through the valve covers and out through the PCV valve into the manifold.

 

So, unless there is excessive blow-by, there shouldn't be much, if any, clean side vapor getting into the intake.  The problems arise after engine shutdown and also temporarily during hard acceleration (ie. low manifold vacuum combines with high cylinder pressure causing blow-by).  The shutdown vapors should be light, gasoline-type.  During hard acceleration, I am assuming the catch can will work, but . . . the cyclone style trap may not have the flow, due to low manifold vacuum to get good separation.  Cyclone traps (from my engineering experience) are very sensitive to flow rate to get good trapping.  Not sure how drastic the flow changes on the GM PCV system.  BMW uses a complex diaphragm vacuum regulator with their cyclone oil separator.

 

Anyone know if there regulation mechanism (and if it really works) in the GM PCV valve to account for the difference between high and low manifold vacuum levels (or is it simply a check valve+orifice)?

 

Also, can anyone recommend a no frills (not for looks) but highly-effective catch can kit for the 2015 5.3L?  I can definitely see the utility in the traditional catch can, but I am not ready to jump to the cyclone separator trap (yet!).

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I'm sure if you went to a junkyard where you go in and pull the part off the truck yourself, not a used part place where they do it for you, you can get that part on it's own.  Depending on if and what else you would be buying, and time of day, they might even just skip over adding it as a item to the bill.
    • No, we trade them like pokeman cards.
    • It would be sold as a "kit", lights + auth/programming code.   You can resell the code to someone else, if they just buy the lights, either new or used, and they can then use the code to get them to work on their truck.
    • Apologies in advance, this is a long post, there's a lot to explain.   A friend had a 2010 Avalanche with a 5.3 (LMG) that blew the head gaskets (amount other problems). He gave me a donor motor out of a 2007 suburban (LC9). I got it all installed, and everything hooked up. Went to go start it, and it stumbled a bit at first and died a couple times, but after trying a few times it sounded like it was running very well. Went out to go get some coolant, and came back the next day.    Upon trying to start it, the truck will crank and fire normally and the RPMs will raise to around 1,200 or 1,500, sounding great, and then the RPMs will decrease and it will just die. Repeat that a dozen or two dozen times, and eventually it will fire and idle beautifully. As soon as you touch the throttle, it will start misfiring and sound like absolute trash. When you let off the throttle it will come down and hunt around shaking and misfiring like crazy. A message will come up on the dash saying reduced engine power.    It is throwing codes for a map sensor circuit voltage High, as well as MAF sensor low frequency. With key on engine off, the map sensor reads about 4.8 volts on the vout pin, which the PCM interprets as about 17.8 PSI, contrasted to the barometer which my scan tool tells me reads about 13.5 PSI. However, once the engine starts and is idling this reading drops to about 5-6 PSI at a stable idle, and varies significantly when the engine is misfiring/ hunting like I said before. I should note that I used the intake and MAP sensor from the LC9 engine. I changed the connector on the 2010 harness to The 2007 connector. The pinouts for the sensors were printed right on the top, and I triple-checked that I put the correct wire into the correct place.   On the other hand, the MAF sensor reads consistently 0.0 g/s regardless of State. I have pulled my hair out trying to figure out this last detail. I have tried three different sensors, (all of which should be good, one of which was new), I have verified all the wiring from the sensor going back to the PCM, and have verified that the readings at the PCM are the same readings as at the sensor itself. The intake air temperature sensor is also functioning as normal. I verified all the voltages and grounds etc, and everything is as it should be. I don't have an oscilloscope to verify, but I probed with my multimeter (Klein mm720) on frequency Mode, and it reads that on initial cranking, the maf is producing between 3000 and 7000 HZ, and as soon as the engine fires that falls off to below, 1000, and if the engine continues to run, it will produce somewhat erratic readings between 5 and 100-200 HZ. It does increase notably when the engine is revved despite the misfirings. As I said before, I have verified all of the wires going to the PCM, and I have tried multiple known good sensors. I've tested all the pins and voltages from the sensor and verified them against the manual that they are what they should be. I tested all the wiring for both ohms and voltage drop, and everything tested fine. Like I said I tested at the sensor as well as right at the PCM, everything checked out.   The only other thing of note at least I think is the fact that the engine originally in the truck had VVT, but the engine I put in, the lc9, does not have VVT. I modified the cam sensor plug to work. I reference the wiring diagrams and double-checked that I modified the harness correctly to adapt it. There is obviously a code for the VVT solenoid, but I don't think that's the cause of my problems, and this friend will probably have the PCM sent off to tune out the codes at some point.   I'm writing this for my bed so I don't recall the exact codes, but I'll update the post tomorrow morning with the exact codes. And ideas or feedback much appreciated. 
    • It's possible the two trucks are using different body control modules which is why yours works and the OP's doesn't.   So much in these newer vehicles depends on model/trim configurations, production date. They don't all use the same modules like back in the day.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...