Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

My Air Lift SlamAir helper bag kit arrived and I'm wondering where you guys and gals mount the inflation valve. I'm going to "T" the lines together and have a single inflation valve. I don't see a situation where I'll need to load level from left to right.

 

Thanks in advance

 

Tom

Posted

Why not just do an on-board air setup so you don't have to even mess with that BS?

Posted

I like the license plate bolt idea, that's slick. I don't want to mess with an onboard compressor. The only time I'll need to add air is when I tow the trailer and I have a Milwaukee 12 volt inflator on board at all times. e7eb0270261fcf0a453e06130fb40c25.jpg

Posted
I like the license plate bolt idea, that's slick. I don't want to mess with an onboard compressor. The only time I'll need to add air is when I tow the trailer and I have a Milwaukee 12 volt inflator on board at all times. e7eb0270261fcf0a453e06130fb40c25.jpg


Agreed it’s really overkill unless you’re using it every day. I tow once a month and thought about getting the wireless one system but 350 bucks is a decent amt of coin for something that will barely get used. I’ve read a few reviews stating the manifold leaks at time too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted


Agreed it’s really overkill unless you’re using it every day. I tow once a month and thought about getting the wireless one system but 350 bucks is a decent amt of coin for something that will barely get used. I’ve read a few reviews stating the manifold leaks at time too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Exactly, sometimes less is more....
Posted
Exactly, sometimes less is more....

Yep.

The license plate bolts are easy just pop the plastic piece out.

I used the second valve on the other side so it looks the same. Actually had them plumbed separately at first but they didn’t get along with each other (one side would be half an inch to an inch lower at the same pressures. Airlift suggested for towing just plumb them together. Equal load.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted

 

Agreed it’s really overkill unless you’re using it every day. I tow once a month and thought about getting the wireless one system but 350 bucks is a decent amt of coin for something that will barely get used. I’ve read a few reviews stating the manifold leaks at time too.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Had the FireStone AirBags on my DMax with remote in cab switches. I loved it when towing my 5th Wheel and especially during rainy days it was very convenient not ever having to get out, standing outside in bad weather manually filling air bags that literally needed resetting air pressure. Very convenient but not if you’re towing once or twice a year.

 

fe5c9730b0b42116b6bbc61098c3860b.jpg

 

Sent from above

Posted
3 hours ago, TXGREEK said:

 

Had the FireStone AirBags on my DMax with remote in cab switches. I loved it when towing my 5th Wheel and especially during rainy days it was very convenient not ever having to get out, standing outside in bad weather manually filling air bags that literally needed resetting air pressure. Very convenient but not if you’re towing once or twice a year.

Agreed. I tow my boat 1-2 times a week.  I would hate to need to fill/empty the bags manually each time I towed...or worse yet, each time I go down the boat ramp.

 

Smart Air 2 setup is $350 but you don't even need a controller. Just does everything for you and basically replicates what GM used to offer with the auto-leveling suspension (which I really miss having).

Posted
Agreed. I tow my boat 1-2 times a week.  I would hate to need to fill/empty the bags manually each time I towed...or worse yet, each time I go down the boat ramp.
 
Smart Air 2 setup is $350 but you don't even need a controller. Just does everything for you and basically replicates what GM used to offer with the auto-leveling suspension (which I really miss having).


I’ll look into the firestone one. The wirelessOne from airlift seems pricey and has iffy reviews


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, djw88 said:

inside the gas door

Exactly where I put mine to. I have installed 2 Firestone kits on a 2007 1500 and 2011 1500 never touched them since. Work great. 

Edited by crankman
Posted

 

I’ll look into the firestone one. The wirelessOne from airlift seems pricey and has iffy reviews

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I’d stay clear from the wireless setup, fixed dual gauges under steering wheel is what I had and worked great. Just make sure to get the dual gauges that are lit up.

 

 

Sent from above

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
    • They’re not the same wiz as 10-15 years ago.  QC has fallen pretty hard.  The XP line was never good though in the first place.    https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/wix-filter-rusted-through.386492/post-6991372   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/i-ve-used-my-last-wix-filter.27299/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/looking-for-a-better-replacement-for-wix-51258.403977/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/convince-me-in-using-the-purolator-boss.401537/post-7420147   the forums are littered with posts and examples of not great wix filters the last couple years 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...