Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi, does anyone know if there is a fuse for the door switch that controls the memory seats in my 2014 Silverado LTZ Z71?

I have NO functions and the backlight doesn't work on the switch. This is a brand new switch, I just replaced it as I was thinkinking the switch was bad but now???????

 

Where and what # fuse is it?

The power seat functions fine....Just no memory functions and the switch does not light up so maybe fuse related???

 

Thanks!

Posted
4 hours ago, trammd said:

Hi, does anyone know if there is a fuse for the door switch that controls the memory seats in my 2014 Silverado LTZ Z71?

I have NO functions and the backlight doesn't work on the switch. This is a brand new switch, I just replaced it as I was thinkinking the switch was bad but now???????

 

Where and what # fuse is it?

The power seat functions fine....Just no memory functions and the switch does not light up so maybe fuse related???

 

Thanks!

Just throwing it out there, do you have all of the settings in the MyLink set to on? Does the new switch "beep" when you push the buttons?

Posted

NO beeps, No light. I have tried with the settings on or off in Mylink......Nothing. Just FYI mylink settings are just for "auto memory recall" on or off and Easy exit " auto " settings. even with those disabled in Mylink you should still be able to set and recall seat positions manually with the memory switch.

 

This is curious, should either one or both of my keyfobs be programmed driver "one' or driver "two" for the memory seats to work????  I ask because when I start my truck it doesn't say driver 1 or 2 with either of my 2 keyfobs. Maybe someone can answer that for me. Do you get a driver one or two message on the DIC when you use your keyfobs???

Posted
4 minutes ago, trammd said:

NO beeps, No light. I have tried with the settings on or off in Mylink......Nothing. Just FYI mylink settings are just for "auto memory recall" on or off and Easy exit " auto " settings. even with those disabled in Mylink you should still be able to set and recall seat positions manually with the memory switch.

 

This is curious, should either one or both of my keyfobs be programmed driver "one' or driver "two" for the memory seats to work????  I ask because when I start my truck it doesn't say driver 1 or 2 with either of my 2 keyfobs. Maybe someone can answer that for me. Do you get a driver one or two message on the DIC when you use your keyfobs???

I don't think that there are messages, but the truck does recognize the fobs, so if you have different setting for 1 and 2 it will adjust to which fob is being used. Do the other switches on the door work ok?

Posted

yes ALL other door switches work great and are backlit. Today when I had the door panel off to install the new switch I looked at everything as far as the wiring etc and it all looked good.

This has really got me scratching my head.

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, trammd said:

yes ALL other door switches work great and are backlit. Today when I had the door panel off to install the new switch I looked at everything as far as the wiring etc and it all looked good.

This has really got me scratching my head.

Do you have the ability to check if there is power coming to the switch? Never mind that question, does the heat function work, think I am getting close to finding the problem. 

Edited by JimCost2014
Posted

Yes I do.if I knew which wire was supposed to be powered at rest I could back probe the switch or just unplug the switch and check for power signal at the harness plug. Anyone have a wiring schematic?

Posted
11 hours ago, trammd said:

Yes I do.if I knew which wire was supposed to be powered at rest I could back probe the switch or just unplug the switch and check for power signal at the harness plug. Anyone have a wiring schematic?

Thinking the fuse you are looking for powers the memory seat function/switch and the heat function of the power seats.

Posted (edited)
20 minutes ago, trammd said:

Heat function is good. Where can I find that fuse? Door jam or underhood fuse center?

Found this: The only fusable protection that I can locate is the 30A circuit breaker under the dash.
My thoughts are that the circuit breaker is protecting a blown control module for the seat functions. Is this easily accessable?

Edited by JimCost2014
Posted

The only thing is it’s not just memory seat it also adjusts pedals, mirrors. So it could be elsewhere maybe. Have you tried disconnecting the battery for a min.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I wonder if there is a bcm just for the memory controls? Or if there memory function is controlled by the main body control module?

Posted

I do know this it does go through diff modules. Did you try the second Key driver one driver 2. I would disconnect the battery for a min if you didn’t already try this.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,352 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
    • Do you have access to BP fuels? Some stations have Silver 91 E-0 priced the same as their 93 E-10.  There is a local Marathon with 90 alky free for $6 a gallon but I go down the road to BP for $5-ish. They also have a 100 E-0 but that stuff is $10 a pop. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...