Jump to content

Ceramic coating


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted
That's why you should take it to a pro and get a warranty on it.
Most have a 5 year warranty some have a lifetime. 
They also have infra red to hear the coating as it cures . Do it yourselfers  don't heat it up to cure usually.
If you want to do it yourself that's fine but when it don't last you have nobody to blame but yourself 
5 year warranties don't mean anything. 10 year warranties have disappeared in less than 2 years.
They will just say we will honor our warranty can send you a free bottle and you have to pay somebody to put it back on. There is more badd ones out there then good. But it's your money not mine.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Posted

When you check the reviews also make sure it's a review done by a professional installer!

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Posted
1 hour ago, gothp28 said:

5 year warranties don't mean anything. 10 year warranties have disappeared in less than 2 years.
They will just say we will honor our warranty can send you a free bottle and you have to pay somebody to put it back on. There is more badd ones out there then good. But it's your money not mine.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

The warranty does mean something if you go to reputable company to get it done .Don't be so negative about something you don't know jack shit about. Yay you saw a you tube video about it. Just because you are afraid to spend the money to get it done doesn't mean it's a waste. There is a lot more guys that swear by it than guys like you that say it's a waste of money 

Have fun with your turtle wax

Posted

Settle down Sally I don't use Turtle Wax.
I have Cquartz UK 110. There are a bunch of reviews and if you read them they all say they don't last as long as you think. I'm not being negative I'm being realistic and saying make a smart decision on the product you apply.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Posted
Settle down Sally I don't use Turtle Wax.
I have Cquartz UK 110. There are a bunch of reviews and if you read them they all say they don't last as long as you think. I'm not being negative I'm being realistic and saying make a smart decision on the product you apply.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


This is true.

I have a "2 year" treatment on my truck, and my buddy who did it for me, said 14 months is more realistic where we live. There are lots of factors.

Sent from my SM-N960W using Tapatalk

Posted

I wouldn't even waste my time with a two year treatment. You get what you pay for. Is your buddy a pro or did he just stay at Holiday inn Express last night?

Do it yourself jobs are not pros that do it every day.

Cquartz is a do it yourself product. 

Ceramic Pro is only available to a professional franchisee.  Let's not compare apples to oranges.

Posted
I wouldn't even waste my time with a two year treatment. You get what you pay for. Is your buddy a pro or did he just stay at Holiday inn Express last night?
Do it yourself jobs are not pros that do it every day.
Cquartz is a do it yourself product. 
Ceramic Pro is only available to a professional franchisee.  Let's not compare apples to oranges.
Haha. He's a Pro. He owns a shop and details almost exclusively exotics and higher end vehicles.

Who pissed in your corn flakes?

Sent from my SM-N960W using Tapatalk

Posted
4 minutes ago, KA0S said:

Haha. He's a Pro. He owns a shop and details almost exclusively exotics and higher end vehicles.

Who pissed in your corn flakes?

Sent from my SM-N960W using Tapatalk
 

You did

Posted
You did
I think you're mistaking me for the other forum member you were having a pissing match with....

Sent from my SM-N960W using Tapatalk

Posted

Use whichever one you want I purchased my product based on Professionals installers opinion. I'm not trying to fight with anybody I was just trying to help by saying look up information before you purchase.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Posted
24 minutes ago, gothp28 said:

Use whichever one you want I purchased my product based on Professionals installers opinion. I'm not trying to fight with anybody I was just trying to help by saying look up information before you purchase.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

I'm doing the same thing. I decided to go with Ceramic Pro based on my professional installers experience not opinion.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

This looks exactly like CarPro's CQuartz. Right down to the "booster" being a milky-white SiO2 product. Got to say my days of work on prep was worth it for my CQuartz application. It really comes down to having a perfect surface to put your ceramic coating on. That's where you will pay and hopefully find someone who knows their stuff. You won't get good results on an old car unless you correct the paint first. I did my first ceramic coat when I bought the car and after doing a full polish and glaze cycle on the entire car. When I switched to CQuartz after seeing the superiority of the finish compared to what I was using, I had to do the same polish and glaze cycle again. The results are superb, but the car still gets filthy and looks terrible if not washed. One thing that isn't mentioned in the video is that while coatings have a hydrophobic property, much rainwater and spray on the roads has chemicals and particulates which do stick to the surface and cause a dirty appearance. In the Atlanta area my car will look filthy if I drive in the rain. Simple hose water is not enough to clean it, and I need to do a full wash if I want the car to look "clean" again.

 

I just got offered to get a ceramic coating for my corba at car products bestnetreview blog.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,982
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    nolankd
    Newest Member
    nolankd
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 1 Anonymous, 438 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • For a limited time, retail accounts receive a free fender cover (G2803) with their order of $750 or more when they use code FENDER926 at checkout. The promotion runs through Sept. 8, 2026. Own a business and want to apply for a retail account?  Apply here. https://www.amsoil.com/business-opportunities/sell-in-your-store/?zo=521390  
    • Thanks for that, yes just because I could I measured what came out just to give me some guidance although I already knew to expect it to take at least 9.5 to just throwing in the whole 10 quarts off the shot and doing a one and done heat cycle to drop out the excess to get to the proper level. I don't recall exactly now what I measured that came out but was less than I put back in, I knew I spilled some on the garage floor but the main part was that I was thrilled in the discovery I did not have to touch my exhaust to flex it down. The gasket manipulating is a pain of course to create that clearance to take the pan out and put back in but its all very doable if one is careful and not forcing the gasket to flex too much. From the quote I got at a transmission shop of 900.00 here in Canada ( never asked at the dealer what they charge ) I saved 700.00 doing it myself after paying for the supplies so that to me paid very good wages !, and I knew what fluid was put in and that I had changed the filter and that the level is correct without any doubts. 
    • I do have one of the AFM diasable box, using it for last 1.5 years.
    • I found a setup that lets me open the cover partway with racks installed, using side-rail-mounted systems for easy access.
    • Typically its said and I agree so far that the engine oil drain plug oring is not required to be changed out unless you see some damage happening to the oring as apparently the oring lasts well. The dealer I have been getting a few parts from never even stocked the oring but instead stocked the whole drain plug that comes with a new oring which for the dealer is easier because they just throw in a new drain plug if there was any question about damage on it as well and charge the customer accordingly but again only if it is needed.    Also a hint about the drain plug oring to help it last vs a risk of causing damage to it, after its been removed and wiped off or washed off ( that is a whole other topic about some solvents damaging orings because some solvent types do ) to make sure to relube the oring with a bit of new oil so that it won't "grip" on the sealing surface of the pan and needlessly stress out the oring. Its no different than putting some oil on the sealing ring of the engine oil filter. So I just grabbed a new drain plug to have on hand although more recently bought just the oring as well but as its special it costs half the price of the drain plug ... !   Since you mentioned the hate to be empty handed theme, I am not sure what you have in the way of filter removal tools as I like using the exact sized for the filter steel 1" wide band with side to side swivel handle filter removal tool, and it can be used to snug up the filter without risk of damaging a filter as well ( its probably a lisle brand I have ). The drain plug hex size is 15mm and I always like using a 6 point socket if I have a choice and with this truck I've been using just a 3/8 ratchet that has a fairly long handle. Do you have a funnel that will work to pour oil in as that is definitely the short coming bastard part about the design with that fill port on the valve cover on such an angle that no normal funnel will even work. There are adapters and things on the market that will set into or screw into that fill port, I didn't want to deal with US shipping as that is all I was seeing at the time so caved and bought a Lisle brand multi vehicle fit adapter funnel kit and it really works well but there are much less expensive adapters out there that work in conjunction with an off the shelf funnel that would do the job also. Now that I have it, I like how it works and works so slick with the shape of the Amsoil 1 quart containers I have now switched over to. Whatever you do, have a funnel system of some sort as you will be swearing if you dropped the oil and then realize you have nothing to properly pour new oil in without spilling it all over the engine !.     Other comments, quite a bit of oil flows out down the filter when its cracked loose due to the housing above the filter so let it dribble down the filter until it slacks off flow and then remove the filter to create less possible mess. It seems these engines can sit for quite a while and drip and if you have time let it sit there and drip out of the engine as much as it wants. Also a good time to grease the 9 zerks on the front end, that's my typical practice anyway to grease the suspension and steering each time I change the oil. And remember to reset the oil change minder ( not something I am used to doing with older vehicles and equipment ). 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...