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Just finished leveling kit, how's this ball joint angle


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Posted
20x9 fuel Mavericks with 305/55-20 nitto g2 tires


The lift allows up to 35”, I’m running 20x9 +1 offset, 295/60/20 (34”) Nitto Ridge Grapplers.


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Posted
9 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 


The lift allows up to 35”, I’m running 20x9 +1 offset, 295/60/20 (34”) Nitto Ridge Grapplers.


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I was considering the ridge grappler but after seeing them side by side I liked the more boxy look of the g2.

Posted
20x9 fuel Mavericks with 305/55-20 nitto g2 tires


The lift allows up to 35”, I’m running 20x9 +1 offset, 295/60/20 (34”) Nitto Ridge Grapplers.


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Posted
I was considering the ridge grappler but after seeing them side by side I liked the more boxy look of the g2.


The Ridge Grapplers are very heavy duty tires and somewhat feel like it if you’re not on top of the PSI. I’ve had nothing but great things to say about them but you’re correct, they’re the one tire that’s one of a kind. My neighbor added the G2’s to his lifted sequoia and really like them but did mention not to go off-roading with them. I needed something that would hold my tires in place on steep wet and grassy inclines and these have never let me down and never needed to engage 4x4 either.

Btw, on the shocks, I’d just go with the Bilsteins being that they’re cheap enough to switch out later for much better coil overs and keeping the front Bilsteins along with stock coils as spares.
I’ve got brand new 5100’s with my stock coils along with the 4.5” CST laser cut upper spacer attached as spares that I’m sure I’ll never need just good to know I’ve got them along with taller rear 5100’s as spares.


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Posted
16 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 


The Ridge Grapplers are very heavy duty tires and somewhat feel like it if you’re not on top of the PSI. I’ve had nothing but great things to say about them but you’re correct, they’re the one tire that’s one of a kind. My neighbor added the G2’s to his lifted sequoia and really like them but did mention not to go off-roading with them. I needed something that would hold my tires in place on steep wet and grassy inclines and these have never let me down and never needed to engage 4x4 either.

Btw, on the shocks, I’d just go with the Bilsteins being that they’re cheap enough to switch out later for much better coil overs and keeping the front Bilsteins along with stock coils as spares.
I’ve got brand new 5100’s with my stock coils along with the 4.5” CST laser cut upper spacer attached as spares that I’m sure I’ll never need just good to know I’ve got them along with taller rear 5100’s as spares.


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I doubt I'll ever go with the coil overs, cst told me they were a waste of money if I don't plan on doing heavy off-roading.  They also said the Bilstein adjustable front shocks with their rear cst street series would work fine together. I just have to move my front Bilstein back down to the stock setting.

Posted
I doubt I'll ever go with the coil overs, cst told me they were a waste of money if I don't plan on doing heavy off-roading.  They also said the Bilstein adjustable front shocks with their rear cst street series would work fine together. I just have to move my front Bilstein back down to the stock setting.


CST sales guys are very honest and very down to earth. I go hog hunting and do off-roading a few times a month at a buddies 120 acre ranch, often travel quickly down washed out roads with zero issues. Good luck with everything and hope you enjoy the lift as much as I am. Post before and after pics when you’re all done.


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Posted
13 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 


CST sales guys are very honest and very down to earth. I go hog hunting and do off-roading a few times a month at a buddies 120 acre ranch, often travel quickly down washed out roads with zero issues. Good luck with everything and hope you enjoy the lift as much as I am. Post before and after pics when you’re all done.


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Will do. The guy I dealt with today was Raymond Mariorenzi........you know him?

Posted
Will do. The guy I dealt with today was Raymond Mariorenzi........you know him?


No, I’m sure there are a few. I order my parts through an off-road shop.


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Posted
12 hours ago, bbyers77 said:

do you know how the standard cst rear shock they offer as a $200 upgrade compare to Bilsteins?

I have the CST street series rear shocks, they were $200.00 a pair. They are an excellent shock for the money. I had Bilsteins on my 2013 GMC which had the 4" CST lift. I think CST's are a little softer then the Bilsteins.

I don't off road my truck and don't plan to, I just wanted as nice of an on road ride I could get. I'm in Michigan and we have some crappy roads, especially this time of the year with the frost lifts and pot holes. I wanted to achieve the best ride I could, I went with the CST coilovers up front and the street series in the rear, I'm running the factory 1 1/4" block , removed the factory bottom overload spring, ( that's the one that gives you the stiff ride) and replaced it with a Deaver J1 mini-pack. The Deaver is a progressive spring and gives the truck a nice cushy ride in the rear. 

Rear shocks are an easy swap and can be upgraded at anytime, I may upgrade those later if I feel the need. As of now my truck rides far nicer then when it was stock, it just soaks up the bumps, not floaty like when it was stock.

I had my buddy drive it last Saturday, he has a 2015 Suburban LTZ with the magneride. He expected my truck to ride rough with the lift on it.  Needless to say, he couldn't  get over how nice my truck rode.

Posted
I have the CST street series rear shocks, they were $200.00 a pair. They are an excellent shock for the money. I had Bilsteins on my 2013 GMC which had the 4" CST lift. I think CST's are a little softer then the Bilsteins.
I don't off road my truck and don't plan to, I just wanted as nice of an on road ride I could get. I'm in Michigan and we have some crappy roads, especially this time of the year with the frost lifts and pot holes. I wanted to achieve the best ride I could, I went with the CST coilovers up front and the street series in the rear, I'm running the factory 1 1/4" block , removed the factory bottom overload spring, ( that's the one that gives you the stiff ride) and replaced it with a Deaver J1 mini-pack. The Deaver is a progressive spring and gives the truck a nice cushy ride in the rear. 
Rear shocks are an easy swap and can be upgraded at anytime, I may upgrade those later if I feel the need. As of now my truck rides far nicer then when it was stock, it just soaks up the bumps, not floaty like when it was stock.
I had my buddy drive it last Saturday, he has a 2015 Suburban LTZ with the magneride. He expected my truck to ride rough with the lift on it.  Needless to say, he couldn't  get over how nice my truck rode.

I added an aal to my rear at time of install with the 3” CST blocks specifically to keep the rear slightly taller. So you’re lifted in the rear using no blocks just the mini deaver setup and if yes, you’re enjoying the ride quality much better than with the 3” blocks that came with the kit? Can you please post a couple pics of your rear setup?


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Posted

I added an aal to my rear at time of install with the 3” CST blocks specifically to keep the rear slightly taller. So you’re lifted in the rear using no blocks just the mini deaver setup and if yes, you’re enjoying the ride quality much better than with the 3” blocks that came with the kit? Can you please post a couple pics of your rear setup?


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Yes, I have the Deaver mini pack along with the factory block, less the factory overload leaf. The factory overload leaf is what gives these 1500’s the load capacity, but it Als contributes to the harsher ride. So unless your towing or hauling heavy loads the overload leaf isn’t needed.
I don’t tow or haul more then 500-600 lbs. so I decided to use that instead of the 3” block. Truck sits almost perfectly level with the Deaver, which I like. I had about 450 lbs in the bed yesterday and it didn’t even begin to squat.
I ran the 3” block for several weeks prior to swapping for mini pack. The 5f48c52d3d054b4e802536b50934d61a.jpgrear definitely rides much smoother over series of bumps, and stays planted much better.



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Posted

Yes, I have the Deaver mini pack along with the factory block, less the factory overload leaf. The factory overload leaf is what gives these 1500’s the load capacity, but it Als contributes to the harsher ride. So unless your towing or hauling heavy loads the overload leaf isn’t needed.
I don’t tow or haul more then 500-600 lbs. so I decided to use that instead of the 3” block. Truck sits almost perfectly level with the Deaver, which I like. I had about 450 lbs in the bed yesterday and it didn’t even begin to squat.
I ran the 3” block for several weeks prior to swapping for mini pack. The 5f48c52d3d054b4e802536b50934d61a.jpgrear definitely rides much smoother over series of bumps, and stays planted much better.



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Excellent, thank you for sharing.


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Posted
21 hours ago, MBSierra17 said:

Yes there is. You have to cut your mounting points for uca and the lower crossmembers. You won't be going back to stock without welding pieces back in. Pretty much the only difference in cutting between cst and BDS or zone is trimming the tab on the differential. 

Well then CST lied to me when I asked that question on the phone last week.

Posted
Well then CST lied to me when I asked that question on the phone last week.


They didn’t lie to you, I was told by my installer that only a couple brackets had to be cut off as opposed to large sections in addition to front differential fins that would’ve been cut off using Zone, BDS etc. I didn’t lift my truck so I could go back to stock, in fact this is why I chose the 4.5” somewhere in the middle. I still can pull into my garage as well as downtown parking garages and the ride quality is just like stock minus the much larger and rougher riding E Rated tires which is totally your option.

If your contemplating going back to stock then why spend the money and have all this work done just to go back to stock?

I’d sell my truck before I’d ever even attempt to go back to stock and with the 4.5” CST lift you’ve got much better options on keeping stock wheels and going one size taller which almost looks like a taller version of a level but exceptional suspension geometry. Adding larger tires will add to your height too which is why many just stick with a 33” tire with a 6” lift. There’s no truck on the road that looks better stock than a lifted truck, period!

Last, having a CST lift on your truck will only add to your trucks resale especially when compared to other lifts and Lifted trucks don’t sit long on used car lots. In fact, the dealership I buy my trucks from fell in love with mine and said they would give me more and sell it before it gets prepped or sale cause of the high quality aftermarket lift. No brainer




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Posted

Ok, maybe "lie" is too strong.  They were slightly misleading.  They specifically said no cutting and no welding.  Just a minor trim and that it was reversible to see stock.  I don't know that I would ever go back, but options are always nice.

 

How tall is your roof line and what diameter tires are you running?  My parking garage at work is 6'-9" and need to be able park there.  I was hoping to go to a 34" tire and keep the stock wheels, at least for a while.  Mostly because I've yet to find a wheel that makes me want to buy it.

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