Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I know this is an all too common problem for the lovely crimp connections that GM makes but my truck is 2 weeks away from having the powertrain warranty expire and I have had an issue where the oil cooler hoses will have a trace of oil at the end of the crimp. It hasn't gotten to the point where it is spraying or making oil drops on the dust shield at the bottom of the engine. I looked into possibly going through and replacing the lines myself but it looks like a hell of a task to undo the 2 bolts holding the lines to the side of my engine block. 

 

I read the powertrain warranty and it said it excludes hoses and lines so i'm certain I am SOL for having it done under warranty and I also worry about having it done just to have a problem with the future lines.

 

I was thinking of leaving the lines alone and just keeping a close eye on them and if it starts to develop any droplets of engine oil I was thinking I could try and figure out a flaring tool to flare the end of the lines and just use a rubber line and a clamp to secure the line. The only problem I see with this is the oil pressure being so high in stage 2 that it would blow off the line even with the flare and clamp. I also am not sure what kind of tool it is called that flares the pipe like a bubble in the middle and not just a normal flare kit that works at the tip of the pipe. I have a traditional pipe flaring kit but not a specialized flare.

 

Has anyone tried to clamp the line on their truck? I know people have done it to the transmission lines but they remain at low pressures.

Posted

Engine oil cooler lines are covered under powertrain warranty.  Take it in, have them do it while you can get it done for free. 

Posted

My dealer tried to tell me my oil cooler lines were not under powertrain warranty. I politely walked out to my truck got my owner's manual out and showed them where they are listed as covered. Replace them last November. For free

  • 3 years later...
Posted

My 2019 Silverado just lost all the oil at stop light (thank God it wasn't going down the interstate at 75mph).  I had it towed to Dealership.  They told me it was the crimp lines and it would be $800.  I am out of the powertrain warranty but seeing how this is a common PROBLEM, I called GM and reported it.  They are contacting the Dealership so fingers crossed it gets taken care of.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hi all,   I just bought a 2021 suburban RST with 88,000 miles on it and everything has been good but I’ve been noticing within the last month or so that there are small electrical things going on and I know what the AGM batteries and all the electric electrical in these big trucks you need to have a constant flow with good voltage   That being said, I bought a new battery thinking that that might have something to do with it but today I went to get in and start it and it said no key found when I had the key right in my pocket   It also proceeded to flash the lights inside and outside for over 30 minutes as I went to disconnect the battery as soon as I touch the negative terminal, I heard the relay reset and everything come back up. I got in the truck and started it no problem.   Anyone else have this happen to them? I’m starting to think it’s the KARR system that the dealer installed short circuit stuff.
    • I don't drive this truck on a regular basis since I have a new company truck with no out of pocket fuel or maintenance cost. Yesterday I got it out to run some errands and got the title message on my DCI. A quick Google search suggested to first clean the Map Sensor. I pulled it out and it was sooty so cleaned it up and reinstalled it. Issue not resolved. My OBDII is a couple years old so didn't see any codes. Today I took it to a friend at AutoZone to get him to check it with his reader. It had the following codes: P20C3 P02BB P221F Stating the most likely solution is to replace diesel emission fluid (DEF) tank assembly.   So, I guess a trip to the dealer is necessary. I read where there was a backorder on these tank assemblies several years ago so hope that has been resolved.
    • Are you using a weight distribution hitch system with your trailer as that alone can change the actual tire pressure requirements needed. It would prove interesting to see what the actual individual axle weights are on your truck when you are hooked up to the trailer. In fact when your hooked to the trailer, typically if anything unless it has a large capacity weight distribution system that is over cranked, often the weight on the front axle will be less when hooked up vs driving empty and certainly if one doesn't have a weight distribution hitch. Really the only times one may get up there with weight on the steer axle is if there was a snow plow mounted on the front or a motorcycle on a rack or with a very large jockey tank full of fuel at the front of the box that transfers a bit of its weight to the front axle.    And of course your tires carry more weight for a given tire pressure due to their size vs a stock sized tire so there is that to take into the equation as well. 
    • Great info here thank you. I just joined, we have a 2014 Silverado truck we bought about 4 years ago with less than 5,000 miles on it. It has approximately 24,000 on it now. It appears to have all the standard issues that people are talking about. Occasional charging problems especially using 110 volt, occasional blinking triangle where nothing will turn on when first starting the truck but it will reset itself if you wait 10 to 15 minutes. Noisy coupler between the flywheel and the generator. Our truck is speed limited to 74 mph, is there any way to change that? The latest issue we have been dealing with is when driving long distance on the highway at full speed the generator does not keep the batteries charged. The meter will go into the yellow/red border Zone for charge status and the yellow triangle will illuminate solid but the generator will not keep the battery charged, not sure why the controller doesn't tell the gas engine to increase RPM to increase generator output it usually stays well below 25 kilowatts even though the battery is discharging and I have to slow down the highway to 45 mph and eventually pull over and let the truck idle to charge the battery so I can continue driving at speed. Has anyone had this issue before or have any idea how to diagnosed it? When via Motors was around it they were very helpful at troubleshooting. This becomes much if the Terrain is hilly and you're towing a small trailer
    • I have the GMC accessory (REV) cover installed by dealer. Ordered with the truck.  They did a very good install job, can't find a single issue. Some water gets in around the tailgate but no where else.  You can see daylight around the tailgate but that's not the covers fault.  Installation is means everything. Guys at my dealer were seasoned pros, not inexperienced here today good tomorrow types, like many dealers employ for these jobs.   I don't mind paying for a professional job.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...