Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Can't speak to anyone else's issue but mine (2021 Colorado with a trailer that just worked with my 2018 Silverado) ended up being a high impedance (cruddy connection) with the ground to the frame on the trailer.  Not how I would have wired the trailer originally (I'm an ****** retentive electronics tech) but instead of running the ground to each of the lamps they bonded it to the frame near the tongue and then bonded each of the lights to the nearest frame section around the trailer.  Cleaned up the first connector and viola everything works.  My suspicion is that they designed the system to "look" for a certain level of return current and if it's not there the system shuts the power off to the plug.  And now, since I have everything apart anyway, it's off to the part store for LED replacement lamps.  Hope this helps'

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I have a 2021 Z71 Suburban.  Wanted to borrow a friends trailer and plugged it in.  No lights.  Works fine on his ford.

Put in my 7  pin tester no luck.  Plugged in my 4 pin flat tester no luck.  Could not tow the trailer without lights.

Took it to Chevrolet and they showed me their tester and that all was fine.  They told me it is the trailer and asked me how old it was.  At the end they told me to take my trailers to an RV place and they would redo my trailer so it will work.  So the SMART system these engineers designed is not backward compatible on almost all trailers.  So beware.  Do not think you are going to rent a trailer that will work, borrow one from a friend or help out somebody in trouble.  I am beyond upset with Chevy.

PS  A lifter broke after 4000 miles on their most expensive and rugged suburban.  It is a known defect.  They replace all four on the right side, but would not replace the left side in spite of their being a bulletin to replace on the side if one breaks.  So now I guess I wait to break down again in the middle of nowhere Utah and then wait 5 days to have it fixed.

I think I am going to build a trailer adapter with an inline resister on each lead to make a smart to dumb adaptor.  Any suggestion of how many ohms?

Posted

Dang it.  I was set to go out and buy a 2021 3500 Silverado after having problems with my Ford.  Looks like I'd be going from the frying pan to the fire.  I guess I'll research Dodge now and see what problems they have and then pick the one with the least amount of problems.   I really liked that IFS on the Silverado one ton.

 

Posted (edited)

Make sure the 7 pin plug isn't upside down. 

 

I wouldn't have thought it was possible -- but, with at least with some trailer plugs, it is...

Edited by redwngr
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I believe I stumbled on the solution. I had the same issue with my 2020 Sierra. I could hook my trailer to other vehicles and the lights worked. Hook it to my Sierra, and nothing. A seven pin tester indicated no power to the receptacle (although I could see very very faint flashing of some lights on the tester). I checked every fuse and all were good. Stumped, I looked at forums for ideas... nothing worked. Then my 5 year old daughter was "helping me" and inquired about the trailer hitch icon when I placed the truck in reverse - trying to be patient, I showed her how it magnified the hitch (I don't usually use this feature). When I put the truck in park, the park brake engaged and I suddenly had all my trailering lights. The display also inquired about which trailer was connected.

 

I'm thinking it is some sort of technical setting. Back to your trailer normally and before hooking the trailer and lights use the hitch magnification feature. Hook everything up, you should now have power to the trailering plug. Ever since I started using the magnification feature, I have power to the receptacle. If I forget to use the magnification feature the lights don't work on some of my trailers, but do on others??? Simply use the magnification feature and the lights work on every trailer... go figure???!!!

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 5/12/2021 at 9:00 PM, JCRowe said:

I have a 2021 Z71 Suburban.  Wanted to borrow a friends trailer and plugged it in.  No lights.  Works fine on his ford.

Put in my 7  pin tester no luck.  Plugged in my 4 pin flat tester no luck.  Could not tow the trailer without lights.

Took it to Chevrolet and they showed me their tester and that all was fine.  They told me it is the trailer and asked me how old it was.  At the end they told me to take my trailers to an RV place and they would redo my trailer so it will work.  So the SMART system these engineers designed is not backward compatible on almost all trailers.  So beware.  Do not think you are going to rent a trailer that will work, borrow one from a friend or help out somebody in trouble.  I am beyond upset with Chevy.

PS  A lifter broke after 4000 miles on their most expensive and rugged suburban.  It is a known defect.  They replace all four on the right side, but would not replace the left side in spite of their being a bulletin to replace on the side if one breaks.  So now I guess I wait to break down again in the middle of nowhere Utah and then wait 5 days to have it fixed.

I think I am going to build a trailer adapter with an inline resister on each lead to make a smart to dumb adaptor.  Any suggestion of how many ohms?

 

I had this problem driving me crazy for two weeks smh mine ended up being fuse 74 under the hood 30amp. 2019 GMC 1500 Denali 

Posted
4 minutes ago, Fesilva said:

 

I had this problem driving me crazy for two weeks smh mine ended up being fuse 74 under the hood 30amp. 2019 GMC 1500 Denali 

 

49AD6CA7-951A-431B-BCC0-B78119B2F137.jpeg

34F01FCC-C24E-476B-B7B5-33C4EED9E6F5.jpeg

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 5/23/2019 at 1:24 PM, P Bolton said:

Ok I hooked up a trailer to my 1 month old 2019 Chevy Silverado today for the first time and had no trailer lights. Hooked up my second trailer and also had no trailer lights. Connected both trailers to my father-in-laws truck and both worked fine. Checked both sockets the flat 4-pin and round 7-pin and had no power at either one. Anyone else had this problem?

Yes im having the same problem take a tester to the plug nothing  every time I hook a new trailer to my truck its a problem why

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

My truck works perfect with my job trailer that’s all LED and won’t work at all with my body trailer. Just spent a week redoing the boat and it still doesn’t work. Never considered it being the brand new truck and thought I ruled that out by using my other trailer all the time. 

Posted

I have a 2021 1500 LT with issues too. No lights work at all when I plug in the 7-pin. When I turn headlights on all the running lights work, but no signals or brake lights. Any ideas?

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I have the same problem with 4 out of 5 trailers that I own, no running or tail lights on any of them when connected to my 2020 3500 HD; all the trailers worked fine on my 2015 2500 HD that I traded in and also still work on my wife's 2019 GMC SUV. I am several weeks into the Chevy senior Advisor trying to get me an answer. When is GM going to acknowledge there is a design flaw that needs to be corrected, it can't be that 90% of the trailers being used are incompatible with the advanced trailering system, designed by GM?

  • 6 months later...
Posted

Have a 22 3500. I have 4 trailers with brakes, a '90 Titan that has had led bulbs installed, a '09 ADS seed tender w/ incandescent, '21 and a '22 H&H with leds.

 

No problem with any light issues, but issuse recalling the brake gain after shutting down the truck and restarting. Something like Error, can not recall brake gain. Check brake gain. It's always correct as to the adjustment, that I have set for that particular trailer.

 

DIC came up once with Check Trailer Right Turn Signal Lamp. Had a bad bulb. I like the system so far.

 

I also dislike not being able to choose the correct trailer while in gear or moving. It defaults to guest trailer. 

Posted

You are having luck than me. I have hooked up six different trailers and have problems with everyone. It goes from everything fine to no trailer connected to check a specific light to trailer connected in many different sequences. Dealer has no clue because it is hard to diagnose an intermittent problem. I think this falls on GM to give them some guidance. 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Good morning.  I have a brand new 2022 Rockwood trailer and I get no running lights (no power to my backup camera either) when I hook up my 2019 AT4.  If I manually turn on the head lights, the running lights now will work.  Sounds like I need to go to the dealer with this issue and get nowhere like the rest you, right?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,462 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
    • Do you have access to BP fuels? Some stations have Silver 91 E-0 priced the same as their 93 E-10.  There is a local Marathon with 90 alky free for $6 a gallon but I go down the road to BP for $5-ish. They also have a 100 E-0 but that stuff is $10 a pop. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...