Jump to content

CTS-V 6 Piston Brembo Brake retrofit?

CCWray

By CCWray
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

kennerz Enthusiast

kennerz

Posted
Posted

Is that the $1500~1800 SET UP? THAT'S WHAT I'm talkin bout! If your gonna do less -do less, or go for the real deal. No tweener - throw together set up. Rather lighten my wallet for that.

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

CCWray
CCWray

Just to update this thread. I appreciate all the input and the reply’s! I went ahead and ordered a CTS-V caliper, and one of the Baer upgrade rotors (same dimension as the OEM CTS-V), so that I can pu

CCWray
CCWray

one thing I didn’t take into consideration off the bat, was the height of the pad for the rotor surface. The CTS-V pad has a much larger contact area than the stock pad (these Baer rotors are meant fo

CCWray
CCWray

Tried searching around but coming up empty. Has anyone had success, or attempted to upgrade to 2009+ (2nd gen) CTS-V brakes?   It appears the Baer upgrade rotors are the same size as the CTS

Posted Images

CCWray Enthusiast

CCWray

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just to update this thread. I appreciate all the input and the reply’s! I went ahead and ordered a CTS-V caliper, and one of the Baer upgrade rotors (same dimension as the OEM CTS-V), so that I can put eyes on everything and see if it is feasible to make this all work. 

 

Bear in mind, this isn’t going to be some hacked up/cobbled together project like some are insinuating. I have the ability/accessibility to design/3D print a prototype bracket and have it machined once its right. I’m aware of the off the shelf options, and they don’t really appeal to me. This is going to be a fun project for me either way. In the end, of it works, I figure I will be ahead on the OEM upgrade kit, and be in this for ~$1500 all said and done. 

 

Thanks again for all the input! I’ll update this once I have parts in hand. 

  • Like 2
2003 SSEi Enthusiast

2003 SSEi

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have the OEM GMC Brembos as well as a set of CTS-v 6 pistons I installed on my other car.  Here is a comparison of the 2.  Your going to need a massive adapter bracket, and may not work because of the CTS mounting ears hitting the spindle.  Plus the GMC Brembo uses a Larger Brake Pad than the CTS, and is physically larger also

EB49EED7-7071-4306-8E74-A3400CD0198D.jpeg

31F402E0-5570-43C6-9756-36F294AED3CF.jpeg

Edited by 2003 SSEi
  • Like 1
1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
Posted

Great pics thank you. Few things no quick pad removal on brembo. And happy to see the rotor the same size as wilwood.
I never liked the exposed line on the caliper that you see on the ctsv unit.
Anyone have replacement cost or just part numbers for pads and rotors on the brembo?
I know wilwood isn't cheap but if I get 50k miles out I don't care it they are $1000 a set.
Stock brakes don't last at all with the way we drive. 2 years max.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

CCWray Enthusiast

CCWray

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Wow, thanks for the comparison photos, that helps a ton seeing them side by side! I get my V caliper today, then just waiting on the 15” Baer rotor to arise early next week. I’m hoping the larger rotor pushed the caliper out enough to avoid the spindle, but will have to wait to mock everything up to see. 

 

Im hoping since the bolt spacing is narrower on the v caliper, that it should help to make the adapter bracket easier, since the bolt holes are offset a decent bit 

CCWray Enthusiast

CCWray

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

one thing I didn’t take into consideration off the bat, was the height of the pad for the rotor surface. The CTS-V pad has a much larger contact area than the stock pad (these Baer rotors are meant for stock pad size). Did a bunch of digging, and found a pad shape that is the exact same for the caliper, and is the correct height for the rotor. Progress!

 

Decided to purchase a spindle for measuring/mock up so I’m not pulling my truck apart each time. Hopefully have that by the end of the week, then I’ll get the adapter drawn up

 

 

8180AEF3-404E-49DB-A538-4E113CC5F3CB.jpeg

Edited by CCWray
  • Like 2
Keith Goff New Member

Keith Goff

Posted
Posted

Occasionally you can find the 6 piston Cardone rebuilds, 18-5200 & 18-5201, for $150 - $175 apiece. You will have to make the cross over line but if you have a bubble flare kit you can make them out of a short piece of line that has the bubble flared ends and fittings on it. You will have to bend it to the correct shape and re-flare one end.

  • 1 month later...
biggdaddy1962 New Member

biggdaddy1962

Posted
Posted
On 6/25/2019 at 1:38 PM, CCWray said:

one thing I didn’t take into consideration off the bat, was the height of the pad for the rotor surface. The CTS-V pad has a much larger contact area than the stock pad (these Baer rotors are meant for stock pad size). Did a bunch of digging, and found a pad shape that is the exact same for the caliper, and is the correct height for the rotor. Progress!

 

Decided to purchase a spindle for measuring/mock up so I’m not pulling my truck apart each time. Hopefully have that by the end of the week, then I’ll get the adapter drawn up

 

 

8180AEF3-404E-49DB-A538-4E113CC5F3CB.jpeg

Any Updates CCWray ?????

  • 3 months later...
TJay74 Senior Enthusiast

TJay74

Posted
Posted

So is the GM optional Brembo 6 piston kit a direct swap for the 2014-2018 trucks? I have a 2016 GMC Sierra AT with the 20" wheels and was thinking about this upgrade for next year.

WhippleSierra New Member

WhippleSierra

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, TJay74 said:

So is the GM optional Brembo 6 piston kit a direct swap for the 2014-2018 trucks? I have a 2016 GMC Sierra AT with the 20" wheels and was thinking about this upgrade for next year.

Yes.  From what I've seen on youtube reviews you remove the stock caliper and bracket along with the rotor and bolt up the new, bleed the brakes and you're done. The issue is the drastic price of the kit.  

TJay74 Senior Enthusiast

TJay74

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, WhippleSierra said:

Yes.  From what I've seen on youtube reviews you remove the stock caliper and bracket along with the rotor and bolt up the new, bleed the brakes and you're done. The issue is the drastic price of the kit.  

 

I am hoping the price will be easier to bite, I get my parts at wholesale thru my local dealer.

WhippleSierra New Member

WhippleSierra

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, TJay74 said:

 

I am hoping the price will be easier to bite, I get my parts at wholesale thru my local dealer.

Well let me know what kinda deal you get...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      The Peckish Synapse

      By Atlas · Posted

      One of the few things I enjoyed about my time in the midwest was taking off on weekend drives. Unlike home, where we are boxed in by mountains and water, those rules don't apply to the inland plains. Roads connect and sprawl everywhere. While Minnesota is flat, it's not completely featureless and there are fast moving rural roads with curves and slight elevation changes. I used to relish heading out in a particular direction with no set destination, no curfew, and weaving through little townships, wherever the roads would take me. Along farms, lakes, or through the deciduous trees... It was beautiful in its own way, and the seasons were so distinct there. Fall drives yielded amazing shows of color and contrast. Summer drives rewarded with the and amber evening glow of the prairie (and lots of juicy bugs).    I do a lot of that here in my home state too. But it's much less mysterious/intriguing. I've traveled most roads in the region, and every road that's fun to drive within a good radius of my house. But every drive, even on the same old roads, is still enjoyable. I know where I can lean hard into the throttle or really throw the car into a curve. There are exercise loops for when I just need to keep certain cars limber, and much longer routes to settle in and enjoy a drive and put some miles on. All the mountains and water make for some really awesome roads for spirited driving. But not all my driving is spirited, for example, that's not really enjoyable in my pickup or this Blazer (that's still here...).   Sometimes a good drive is followed by a ritualistic wash before tucking the car away...
    • C/K Man
      L8S For 2027

      By C/K Man · Posted

      'GMAuthority' is reporting the 2027 HD's will have the L8S 6.6L gasoline V-8.  There was some talk here about the L8S awhile back.  Not sure what changes it will have now as it seems the 2027 emissions regulations have changed from what was originally proposed.  The big question will be is L8S just a stopgap for the last 2 years of the current T1 HD platform or will it carry forward to the next generation 2029 T1-2 HD's?    I assume the L8S will still be a Gen. V engine. 
    • bruceb58
      New Duramax rumor?

      By bruceb58 · Posted

      New engines will still be using DEF. You just won't have the limp modes occurring when you run out of DEF now.
    • bruceb58
      first oil change - 2026 2500HD gas

      By bruceb58 · Posted

      I am not a NOCO fan for a charger I would leave on a battery 24/7. The reason is, it doesn't really float. It waits until the battery drops to a certain voltage and then charges it back up to 14V. It's better than no charger I guess.
    • bruceb58
      first oil change - 2026 2500HD gas

      By bruceb58 · Posted

      I would never do anything but lithium.   If the vehicle is stored, just turn the disconnect off. My batteries are completely disconnected form everything in the trailer when my disconnect is off. Trailers don't always come that way as some still keep the CO/LPG monitor on. When mine is off...it is off.   As far as storage temps, LiFePO4 are good down to -20°C. I would store them in a heated place if it goes below that. You can also get heating mats with a thermostat if power is available.   The way the heaters work, if it's below 0°C, if a charge comes in, it is directed entirely to the heater until the battery gets above 0°C and then it allows the charge to go to the battery.   For my Android tablet I use as a display, I can move it inside my house if I was ever in an area that got super cold.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...