Jump to content

Jacking up a truck to rotate the tires...


Recommended Posts

Posted

I've always been a bit nervous to put my truck (2002 Z71 Tahoe) up on 4 jackstands when I rotate the tires (always do it myself). Since I only put the stands on the frame, the truck is pretty high off the ground in order to get the tires off the ground so I can get em off. And since my driveway leans a little (small angle) it makes me more nervous.

 

So I usually do one side (front to back, and temporarily put the back in the front) then lower it, raise the other side, do that side, then lift the front and flip the tires.

 

It's a PITA process. Anyone have an idea for a better way? Ever lifted your truck under the suspension arm? Seems like it's not a good place, since all the weight of the vehicle is rested on those 4 points now, but I see some mechanics do it. I guess it's no different than when the vehicle is sitting on the tires. Anyway, this lift spot would raise the tires a lot quicker since the whole suspension wouldn't extend...

 

What about big blocks of wood under the frame? More stable than jack stands I would think.

 

I have a 3 ton commercial floor jack, the compressor, impact wrench, etc. So the job would go a heck of a lot faster if I could find a way to get her up in the air all at once, and feel safe about it.

 

Any suggestions are much appreciated!

Posted

If your doing it yourself jacking it up is the only way . unless you want to go buy yourself a lift :thumbs:

 

You could also try putting the jackstands under the rear axle instead of the frame

Posted
I just take my truck to a good tire dealer and watch them rotate them. I make sure they do not impact them.

Same here. A a good reputable tire service center has the equipment and knows the rotation pattern. Typically, after your initial balance/rotation, they'll do the service without fee for the life of the vehicle, depending on the tire service center.

Posted

put one jack stand on each side of the frame near the front, then jack up the rear differential to lift both rears at once. :thumbs: And you CAN lift front by lower control arm without hurting it

Posted

I've always done mine the same way as above. One jack stand under each front side, then the floor jack under the differential. I've never had any problems. Yea a hoist would work really nice, but most of us don't have that kind of setup, so we have to do what works.

 

Moving tires on one side and temporarily moving a tire is a pain. Do it all in one pass.

Posted

may ba a little easier if you rotated the fifth tire(spare)

that way you could go from one to another and not

have a tempo mount

of course i know not many do this

i personally have the lifetime rotate and balance

just my 2 pennies worth :thumbs:

Posted

I wish I had a lift, and if I ever build my own house, the garage will have a stairway leading down under the vehicle...and a lift! :thumbs:

 

But for now, no dice...

 

asepgrad98, That's what I was thinking, I just worried about it "tipping" but I could throw another set of stands as a backup of course. But when you say you list by the differential, you mean right on the axle? Seems like that would be a lot of pressure on that one point...

Posted

Hmmm...don't mean to sounds stupid, as I consider myself pretty well up on the parts on my undercarriage. :thumbs:

 

But "the cast housing in the center between the two axles"? Two axles? It's a solid axle.....oh, I think I see what you mean, technically there are two axles, one for the left, one for the right, both going into the diff. Since the diff never takes pressure/weight from below like that under normal use, this is ok?

 

What about jackstands on the axles themselves? Is that ok?

Posted
put one jack stand on each side of the frame near the front, then jack up the rear differential to lift both rears at once.

:thumbs:

 

The thin skin of the differential case is not up to the stress of lifting the whole rear of the vehicle. You're likely to crumple it with this jacking method (not to mention the risk of the whole thing sliding off that precarious 3-point lift pattern could put the whole truck right in your lap).

 

:thumbs:

Posted

That's what I was thinking. Perhaps if I lifted the rear by the frame and then put jack stands to support it in case it started tipping...Or maybe the opposite? Jack stand the back two sides, and lift the front on the frame cross member.

 

What about that?

 

Basically, the question is really about where to lift...the truck has to be lifted so high to get the wheels off the ground, it feels too high and "tippy".

Posted
The thin skin of the differential case is not up to the stress of lifting the whole rear of the vehicle. You're likely to crumple it with this jacking method

 

It is cast iron and would crack way before it "crumpled". I work in an auto shop and have seen hundreds of vehicles lifted by the diff. without incident.

Posted

When I rotate tires, I put a jack stand on each front side as far forward on the frame as I can, then lift the rear all at one time from the center of the rear end housing, then place two jack stands as far out towards the wheels as possible. Never had any problems.

 

99_on_Jackstands.jpg

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...