Jump to content

Question about bumper to bumper warranty dealer issue


turboolds77

Recommended Posts

Posted

2017 sierra denali 26k miles, had some warranty work done, tri step motor replaced, oil leak, transmission flush and recall, and my brakes sound like the calipers were making a creaking noise when you press the brake pedal. All work done but they charged me $180 in labor to lubricate caliper pins, remove rust, sounds like bullshit to me. Low and behold still creaks and now brake pedal is hard. Is that right for dealer to charge labor 2 hours? Im gonna bring back definetly

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Posted
14 hours ago, turboolds77 said:

 

2017 sierra denali 26k miles, had some warranty work done, tri step motor replaced, oil leak, transmission flush and recall, and my brakes sound like the calipers were making a creaking noise when you press the brake pedal. All work done but they charged me $180 in labor to lubricate caliper pins, remove rust, sounds like bullshit to me. Low and behold still creaks and now brake pedal is hard. Is that right for dealer to charge labor 2 hours? Im gonna bring back definetly

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

Is your truck still under the 3 year 60k (Canada) warranty?  By miles you are, but you may be out by time.  If not, I would have been some pissed off if that was presented to me if they did not get my permission prior doing the work.  Personally 2 hours to only service the front brakes is a bit excessive.  But, now that I think of it, does your truck have disc brakes on the rear end?

If they are still making the noise, make sure you know exactly how to have the noise occur, then take the truck, you insist on taking the service writer out in your truck and teach him how to make the noise in the brakes,  Getting your truck back with a high hard one is not something to complain about, 4 wheel disc brakes are notorious for not having a high, hard brake pedal and can get expensive to get one,

Posted
1 hour ago, turboolds77 said:

Im in the us, it is still under bumper to bumper. Im bringing in tomorrow and gonna raise hell with service writer its bullshit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Was there a reason/description on your invoice as to why you were charged?

 

Are they trying to get you on a "normal wear" item?

Posted

Rust buildup on slides disassemble rear brakes clean and lube slides lube pads reassemble and flush fluid in rear calipers, lol still does the same noise


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...