Jump to content

Driver front tire/hub vibration/growling

Brant78

By Brant78
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

Recommended Posts

Brant78 Enthusiast

Brant78

Posted
Posted

 

I just recently started getting a growling/vibration from my front drivers side tire. I notice it mostly at speeds over 60. If I turn the wheel slightly right it seems to go away.

 

Has anyone experienced this? What’s the best way to diagnose the issue?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Brant

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

kickass audio Enthusiast

kickass audio

Posted
Posted

It sounds like your front drivers side bearing is going out but the trick mentioned above of if the noise gets louder in one direction (say turning left) then your right bearing is shot can be misleading. I misdiagnosed a bearing on my old truck and it would get louder when I turned right so I figured it was my left bearing. I replaced it and it wasn't fixed so it ended up being the right bearing that was shot.

 

The best way I have found so far to test a bearing is jack up the truck and let the wheel hang. Put your hand on your spring and grab it while turning your wheel. If you feel vibration or grinding then you have found the bearing that is going out. Check the opposite side just to be sure.

Lsgun1 Enthusiast

Lsgun1

Posted
Posted

Only over 60 sounds a little strange for a bearing. Check the edge of your tires to see if they are cupping/feathering. Run your hand over them and make sure they feel smooth, if they are all bumpy you are probably hearing the tire.

Brant78 Enthusiast

Brant78

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Only over 60 sounds a little strange for a bearing. Check the edge of your tires to see if they are cupping/feathering. Run your hand over them and make sure they feel smooth, if they are all bumpy you are probably hearing the tire.



This did seem to show up after having my tire rotated. But, I don’t know if I just didn’t notice it before.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Brant78 Enthusiast

Brant78

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Did you check anything yet?


Yeah it looks like my tire is cupped
How does that happen and is there a way to fix it?
Just deal with it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Lsgun1 Enthusiast

Lsgun1

Posted
Posted

Sometimes it's shitty tires or mud tires on strictly asphalt but likely the alignment has issues. Tire is past correction if it's already making noise so you can just ride it out now. It's not a safety concern just an annoyance. When you get new tires get an alignment and you should be good to go.

Brant78 Enthusiast

Brant78

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Sometimes it's shitty tires or mud tires on strictly asphalt but likely the alignment has issues. Tire is past correction if it's already making noise so you can just ride it out now. It's not a safety concern just an annoyance. When you get new tires get an alignment and you should be good to go.


I have the Dick Cepek Extreme Country tires on it and I have driven about 20k miles or so on them. They have been great tires in every condition so far up until now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Lsgun1 Enthusiast

Lsgun1

Posted
Posted

That's what happens with mud tires, they are made for a purpose but people buy for the look. Next time go for an all terrain tire and it will treat you better. I used to see this all the time on wrangler rubicons.

Eddie 70 Senior Enthusiast

Eddie 70

Posted
Posted
On 10/26/2019 at 1:37 PM, Brant78 said:

 


I have the Dick Cepek Extreme Country tires on it and I have driven about 20k miles or so on them. They have been great tires in every condition so far up until now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How often do you rotate tires? Try rotating the tires and see if that cures some of the noise from the front you are hearing.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • jgaudet99
      Tire psi

      By jgaudet99 · Posted

      I tried before I updated the scan tool just incase an update messed it up, but it never worked so I updated the scan tool and it still didn't work.   Only difference is I click on Sierra not Chevrolet cause I have a Sierra.   If I click on 2026-2024 I didn't have any option to change placard, when I click on 2023 it does give me the option but when I try to do it,.it says vehicle not supported!   I have my region or market or whatever it is set to America I think, is that what yours is set to?
    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Its just that it worked on 2024 trucks on this forum and my 2025 model truck, unless GM did something since that point to screw up access or Autel has a bad update. I haven't had need to use my tool since last year when I did the changes to the placard pressure settings and since then I updated the software on my Autel but have not plugged into the OBD so hard to say if I would get a surprise as well.    All I know last year when I bought the Autel I was warned to be sure to update it before I tried using the unit as they said who knows how long ago unit itself was actually manufactured as the software could be way out of date. 
    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      And so you had gone through the process of registering and updating the tool and so on ?. All I can say is that on the front page as the tool fires up you go to advanced mode, then vehicle model comes up and you choose Silverado ( not the DRW or EV  since your a single rear wheel ) , then I think its choice 2 which is 07/2021 - 12/2026 ( 433mhz 13542523 ) as that is the series of tpms sensors and then go down to choice 5 which is tire type/pressure selection. Hit yes and it says to connect to OBD port and turn ignition on.    Having said this, I updated the software in my tool lately and these year range choices look different from the past due to them doing some updates it would appear and I have not connected up to the OBD port since last year so hopefully I am not in for a surprise with them screwing up the software and that it won't work on my truck anymore either.    So my question is, when you plugged into the OBD and started your truck it had that message on the Autel screen "vehicle not supported" ?. That does seem odd as tire shops would be pissed right off if hey can't use their tool on the model year after mine that in theory is supposed to be much the same truck ... unless GM did some change in the computer system to block certain things from access. 
    • Atlas
      Tire psi

      By Atlas · Posted

      Understanding and using modern scan tools is its own body of knowledge. I had little hope that would work...programming access to the BCM is probably required and that is not easy for us consumers. Expensive scan tool, GM programming subscription, online authentication, etc.   It also may be a matter of finding the right dealer to program it for you. Flashing a modern BCM might be a little too advanced for most tire shops.
    • SwitchBladeSierra
      AUX switch install

      By SwitchBladeSierra · Posted

      Update for anyone following:    Installed everything as shown in diagram. Opted for 8 AWG from Battery Positive to a 50A resettable inline breaker. 8 AWG is tied into to 2x 12 AWG wires feeding a 6 way fuse bus in parallel (manufacturer’s design of what I purchased).    4 of the 6 fuses available for circuits are tied to terminal 30 of each relay. I tied a jumper from one of my spare circuits off the bus to terminal 86 of each relay. The trigger, terminal 85, was pulled from my interior by way of T-Taps from the X61A-X5 pins 10, 11, 17 and 23. This was the hardest part of the job. Even with the X61A unbolted and the X5 removed - there was VERY little wiggle room.  I added back up lights that I want to come on with my cargo lamp - but when I would check continuity between S48A-X1 pin 18 to its respective landing point on the X61A-X5 it triggers the factory relay… Instead I opted for a add-a-fuse on the passenger interior fuse panel (fuse location 10 - cargo lamp) and ran it through the boot on the driver side to my load. Did this to avoid introducing any electrical gremlins.   Note: Please check for continuity between the S48A-X1 and the X61A-X5. In my case wire colours were not the same as other’s who have posted. To do a continuity check you need a Multimeter. Completely disassemble the S48A-X1 and remove the brown face plate off the X61A-X5 by way of a flat head screwdriver - this was the only way I could get any results.   The outputs, terminal 87 of the relays, were fed into a junction box and landed at Individual studs and were labelled Aux 1-4.    At this point, all you need to do is run wire to your loads and bring them to ground. I created a negative bus in the engine bay, all my negatives land here.    For anyone having issues with all of your new aux switch lights coming on with the press of one - I noticed this only to be an issue when the battery wasn’t hooked up to my relays? No idea why, but it was quickly corrected by having my system buttoned up and functional.     

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...