Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I have no idea what the stall speed for the torque converter is on mine.  Now that you mentioned the issue with V8's only, I have never seen a single 4.3L on those 100's of work orders at work. Each rebuild comes with a work order that specifies the engine it is used for and I've seen only V8's.  lol.. All torque converters are replaced with each rebuild.  Maybe I won't have to replaced the TC on my truck after all. fingers crossed.

We have a torque converter rebuilding department too. When I get the chance, I Will check how often the 4.3 gets rebuild. i seriously do not remember seeing any 4.3's coming through.

Glad I didn't get the Z71 V8 version then. I don't do a lot of towing, so the 4.3L fit the bill. Heaviest tow was a 500lb (probably less)  jon boat lol..  dropping the trans pan and changing out the spark plugs seem a lot easier on the V6 vs V8 too..

Edited by yourleftnut1
  • Like 1
Posted
6 hours ago, yourleftnut1 said:

I love my silverado. 70k miles and no issues so far, but I must say, the transmission seems like the weakest link. I haven't messed with other auto manufacturer's transmission at work, but seems like GM took a short cut on the 4L60E's and 6L80/90's. Almost all the internals could be upgraded to a better part and it doesn't cost much more. Don't know what the previous owners used their trucks for, but we would get transmissions in with cracked drum pistons, cracked clutch plates, and many other  things. We always replaced those failed parts using sonnax after market parts..

seems like the torque converter on my truck will eventually fail too. the good part is, I can rebuild my entire transmission in my garage and borrow tools from work to work on it over the weekend. :D i could even take it to work and have it test run on a dyno before installation. :D

 

 

Where do you live ? Asking for a friend 😀😀

  • Haha 1
Posted
10 hours ago, yourleftnut1 said:

I have no idea what the stall speed for the torque converter is on mine.  Now that you mentioned the issue with V8's only, I have never seen a single 4.3L on those 100's of work orders at work. Each rebuild comes with a work order that specifies the engine it is used for and I've seen only V8's.  lol.. All torque converters are replaced with each rebuild.  Maybe I won't have to replaced the TC on my truck after all. fingers crossed.

We have a torque converter rebuilding department too. When I get the chance, I Will check how often the 4.3 gets rebuild. i seriously do not remember seeing any 4.3's coming through.

Glad I didn't get the Z71 V8 version then. I don't do a lot of towing, so the 4.3L fit the bill. Heaviest tow was a 500lb (probably less)  jon boat lol..  dropping the trans pan and changing out the spark plugs seem a lot easier on the V6 vs V8 too..

 

Now isn't that interesting!

🤔

Can you find out if they use the SONNAX clutch in your  6L80/90 V8 Converter rebuilds?

Someone here was asking for such a source just a few days ago.

 

A fella I know in Georgia that rebuilds transmissions told me once that the only V6 6L80 he ever had in his shop was from a salvage truck. Again, very interesting. 

 

 

  • 2 months later...
Posted
On 3/9/2020 at 11:15 AM, Dmitri Mendeleev said:

Just got this kit installed on my Tahoe at the dealership yesterday (2018 LS 4WD max tow). Will be watching the trans temperatures as the weather warms up.

 

  • 3 months later...
Posted
On 12/3/2021 at 10:34 AM, Fridayhell said:

That looks to be a drop-in replacement for the PILL that's length is equal to the thermostatic PILL when it is fully extended (which means full flow to coolers.)  If you've ever opened up the thermostat bypass assembly you will know that the PILL is supported by a spring at both ends which allows it to recirculate flow back to the transmission in the event that a cooler line ever becomes clogged.  This is a safer alternative than simply flipping the pill.  OR another safe alternative is tapping and plugging the assembly and not reinstalling a pill at all.

OR in my case I recently installed GM's newly revised thermostat bypass assembly which contains a lower temperature thermostat.

Posted
2 hours ago, BlaineBug said:

If you've ever opened up the thermostat bypass assembly you will know that the PILL is supported by a spring at both ends which allows it to recirculate flow back to the transmission in the event that a cooler line ever becomes clogged.  This is a safer alternative than simply flipping the pill.  OR another safe alternative is tapping and plugging the assembly and not reinstalling a pill at all.

 

OEM works just like a water thermostat working against that spring. There is no pressure relief bypass. The Superior Transmission STL010 6L80 Sure-Cool System will bypass on pressure. A marketing gimmick. 

 

Tapping the plugging is identical to a pill flip in response to pressure. You block the return path. It's also identical to the absence of any thermal device as was the case for decades. Do ya hear of allot of blocked cooler related pump/transmission failures? Nada!

 

Irrational fear being monetized 

 

With the pill flipped, body drilled and tapped or STL010 kit installed it will act like every automatic pre 2014.

 

THINK

ATF flowing through a radiator tank of hot water.

 

There is a floor as to how cold the fluid will get when being heated by coolant.

 

 

Posted (edited)
On 12/3/2021 at 10:34 AM, Fridayhell said:

 

From their site: 

 

2017-19 GM trucks with Allison transmissions (AND 2014- up GM gas trucks and suvs with 6 OR 8 speed automatic trans) utilize an auxiliary transmission cooler thermal bypass valve to control fluid flow to the auxiliary cooler. The factory valve is restrictive and does not allow sufficient flow to the auxiliary cooler causing higher trans fluid temps especially on trucks with increased line pressure from trans tuning or a built trans. In testing on our shop L5P we saw trans temps in excess of 215 degrees after installing one of our built units. This lead to the design of the LDP L5P trans cooler bypass valve. We have seen up to 50 degree temp drops even on stock trucks and have had customers reporting 60 degree temp drops! Our design allows you to install the factory thermostatic valve for cold weather operation to maintain optimal fluid temp year round.  Install time is less than 10 minutes- see attached video. 

 

Isn't that interesting? 

 

One could  even remove the bypass valve :

 

shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcRsFn3lFn0nWs_nHTSLew30QHJz8EsueUBiVEXZJM1Tkvg9XBsX6RAxtRAZbaI_XzNaF77E4NzWGinFUEiNZMhFtU43307kXeOPIJ2vFsjOPDfRKxp5en_a&usqp=CAE

Then add a lower temperature unit such as:

 

https://www.improvedracing.com/high-flow-engine-transmission-oil-cooler-thermostat.html

 

Might like that better than twice a year swaps for those whose fluid does not use the radiator as a cooler/heater. This one you get to choose a pretty liberal number of temperature options with full knowledge of operating conditions published in table form. 

 

There seem to be allot of factory layouts for cooling that all have unique needs. This thread brought that to light well. 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,973
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RichardRS
    Newest Member
    RichardRS
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 805 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Well that book won't sell many copies. Taking ones right foot off the loud pedal never gets applause. Funny really, It isn't that people don't know what to do...they just don't want to do it. But they will complain about it. About bad craftsmanship, about the cost of fuel, about the cost of part and repairs and mainly they complain that the solution while still possible isn't one they are willing to do.    I observe this daily. 'Gas cost to much!", they wail, while they mat it passing at 80+ mpg and scoot down the road like gas cost a dime a gallon. Then complain about the few that will lift and save both fuel and iron like they are owed and own the road.    Good thing they haven't an ounce of influence on my equipment. The rest I just laugh at. Stupid is as stupid does, right Forest?     
    • Today I filled up with 4.899 gallons of fuel at a cost of $4.899 a gallon. $24 bucks. 290 miles. 59.2 mpg. After my 4% COSTCO discount just under eight cents a mile.  
    • Howdy folks,   Recently I pulled a heated steering wheel and clock spring out of a 2015 Sierra All Terrain (part numbers coming soon - will have to disassemble), and just installed it on my 2016 Sierra WT (as base model as it gets).   On install, I noticed that I’m missing the connector often tucked behind the dash for the heating element.     No problem… or so I thought.   I used an “Add-A-Fuse” at my heated steering wheel fuse location, which has voltage, but no wires. I ran it to the positive of the heated steering wheel (Violet/White), and took black to ground.   Hooked up the battery, turned the truck on - no heated steering wheel. No button backlights. Was pleased to see that my cruise control was working though.   Read a post suggesting reversing polarity, so I gave it a shot. Violet and White to ground, Black to power.    Aha! Heat! But I seemingly can’t turn it off AND still no backlights on any of the buttons.    Checked all fuses, everything is still in good order. I’m stumped.   Does anyone have any insight? If so, please share!
    • I'm about 1800 miles into my last oil change, and yesterday a message appeared saying oil life was at 77%. Not sure why it popped up but I think all of these electronics could be susceptible to solar flares or somesuch. I change my oil right at 3K each time, and that was the first time in 10870 miles that message came up. Strange thing is that it showed on the screen at all since I don't drive with that sort of info displayed on the DIC.
    • I’m praying that someone sees this and can help me out… pulled a heated steering wheel and clock spring out of a 2015 Sierra All Terrain, and just installed it on my 2016 Sierra WT (as base model as it gets).   On install, I noticed that I’m missing the connector often tucked behind the dash.     No problem… or so I thought.   I used an “Add-A-Fuse” at my heated steering wheel fuse location, which has voltage, but no wires. I ran it to the positive of the heated steering wheel (Violet/White), and took black to ground.   Hooked up the battery, turned the truck on - no heated steering wheel. No button backlights. Was pleased to see that my cruise control was working though.   Read a post suggesting reversing polarity, so I gave it a shot. Violet and White to ground, Black to power.    Aha! Heat! But can’t turn it off AND still no backlights.   Checked all fuses, everything is still in good order. I’m stumped.   Does anyone have any insight? If so, please share!  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...