Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey everyone, 

 

So I wanted a way to defeat stabilitrak on my 2015 Silverado with a switch, but keep ABS and not light up the dash when you pull fuse #3... Hat tip to Bo Nitzsche on the idea to pull the steering wheel position sensor! See post here: https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/215830-stabilitrak/#comments

This got me thinking about a switchable solution. I didn't want to repeatedly plug and un-plug a sensor which would be such a PITA to replace if it broke. I also didn't want to cut my factory harness for a defeat switch. So, I instead made my own jumper harness! Behold:

77308437_2244075372557057_147263656801861632_n.thumb.jpg.d20f326786e9d6e8135fcd45d2063784.jpg

 

Here it is in action, you can see that stabilitrak is gone while ABS is still functional! The dash isn't lit up at all, and it only shows two warnings. Traction control works just as normal via its switch. 

 

In case you were wondering, here is all that was involved with building the harness...

 

Parts:

- Harness Connector: https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-1-1241370-3.html

- Sensor Connector: https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-2-969682-1.html

- Receptacle Pin: https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-5-963715-1.html

Specialty Tools:

- Ideal Ratcheting Crimp Tool: https://idealind.com/shop/30-506.html

- Ideal Crimp Die: https://idealind.com/shop/30-586.html

Supplies:

- 22awg wire: https://www.grainger.com/search/electrical/wire-cable/automotive-wire-battery-cable?sst=1&ts_optout=true&searchQuery=22awg

- 22awg 6 conductor wire: https://www.pacergroup.net/unshielded-multi-conductor-cable-22-awg/

- 1/6", 3/32", 1/8" shrink wrap: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073R69KNB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Switch: https://www.alliedelec.com/product/zf-electronics/srj22a3bbbnn/70207322/

- Soldering stuff

 

So the harness side connector has 6 pins, looks like this:

77338020_535934780590583_8194487190596616192_n.thumb.jpg.ec450b6bf0466733cfa0534dbc92760b.jpg

and it plugs into the steering position sensor here:

77240917_1021308124885051_4628755966513381376_n.thumb.jpg.158fdf7416444bc7688e246882277942.jpg

 

I got the part number from the connector and found it online, then verified it with the manufacturer that I found the right parts. Once I had the correct parts, I needed to be able to properly crimp the pins. I had to look at the spec sheet for the pin on the manufacturer's website to then find out the correct crimp type (F-type crimp). 

Male connector side, the wires are crimped and inserted into the connector (don't judge my crimps, this was my first try):

79243388_782440965553566_7554913401411993600_n.thumb.jpg.afe3c41bc1d609cead4e9ba59df3ebc0.jpg

Even with the correct type of crimp tool this was hard. The manufacturer specific tool was super expensive ($450), and the tool I picked was a little more generic. The crimps weren't always perfect, but I was able to get it to work by tinning the wires with some solder first. They passed the test pull weight spec with this method. 

The female side connector was only available as a wire-to-board connector. I had to solder the wires to the exposed pins and shrink wrap over them. 

79978737_432321100779544_5635766411189026816_n.thumb.jpg.cc78984b505f953db203d7e12ac4fa02.jpg

Final product:

78541511_551153335461002_4436839785297870848_n.thumb.jpg.76b7a1419a7d33a85a45349d35b98513.jpg

I decided to cut the black wire (pin 6) and wire the switch inline there. The circuit turned out to be sensitive to extra resistance. I tried using a switch (pictured above) i had lying around the garage, but it wouldn't work. I had to go with the ZF switch because it had the lowest internal resistance with the style switch I wanted.

Mounting the switch I wanted it to be sleek and unobtrusive, so I mounted it inside the under dash cubby. This is removed with three screws. (one inside on the front face and two below)The switch has a .787" mounting diameter, which is nothing you can find at the local hardware, so I went with a 3/4" hole and just reamed it out a little bit. The switch also has a little notch to prevent rotation that I cut into the plastic hole as well. 

78913669_551229505609645_1985280669013508096_n.thumb.jpg.2df3af3afc0f820deeea1f48a35e06ed.jpg

Incognito:

78723599_1256835024525887_83157271294509056_n.thumb.jpg.04e1eaf8b1512206c3ddce1fc5d72aec.jpg

 

This method was definitely a bit more expensive and time consuming than others (~$300), but it is so convenient now to just switch off the fun police whenever I want and then go back to safety if I want to. There are way less drawbacks to this than pulling a fuse, I've had it unplugged for weeks before installing this switch. 

I was thinking about making some of these for anyone since I have extra of everything and the tools. Let me know if there is interest!

 

Enjoy your new truck ?

 

  • Like 4
Posted

But why? I'm not trying to sound like a jerk, but even here in MN if I want to "play" on icy roads or parking lots, the fun lasts for about 10 seconds and then I get bored and realize I have crap to do so I go back to driving like normal. Also, do the K2 trucks not allow the stabilitrac to be disabled via the traction control switch? On mine, if I press and hold the TC button for about 5 seconds, it disables both TC and Stabilitrac.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

 

Some of us drive on roads buried in snow and this stabilicrap makes the truck useless.  I did this exact thing to my 2013 6.2 truck a long time ago and it's great... Except I just unplugged the sensor and left it that way forever.  I have no use for any of the traction nannies in my trucks..  I still daily my 05 and heaven forbid it didn't come such equipped from the factory lol.  I am going to dig around under my 17s dash and see what happens... I will be just permanently disabling it on that one too.

 

And for the record even on the 07 to 13s it doesn't stay off pressing and holding the button.  Sure you get the icon but my 13 used to still cut in at inopportune moments even with it supposedly disabled.  Unplugging the angle sensor fixed that permanently.  This nanny stuff just makes for a world full of even scarier drivers than they already are.

Edited by SierraHD17
  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, carkhz316 said:

But why? 

To put in my perspective, I do it for fun. First of all, I am all for Stabilitrak and traction control and all that for daily driving. Sometimes you just can't be fully prepared for an unseen ice patch or that idiot that pulls out in front of you in the snow. Stuff happens. It really is there to keep you safe. But otherwise, I like to have fun in my vehicle too. I've taken the truck to the dunes and I like to just playfully slide corners in the snow on my way home and all that fun stuff. In those situations, (disabling stabilitrak via the switch, which you also have to be stopped to disable) I've had stabilitrak kick back on above 35mph at bad times.. This will get you stuck in the middle of a dune climb, or snap straight in a drift/donut in the the snow. This is not fun. I like to be able to be able to turn off the nagging and just be a degenerate at times. ?‍♂️?‍♀️

Posted

This is awesome and I'm happy to hear that you figured out a way to do it. Keeping ABS on has always been the concern of everyone when they try to disable Stabilitrak. A similar switch as yours exists ($80 http://www.tuningbyshanehinds.com/2014-12-gm-truck-stabilitrak-disabler), but it also disables ABS.

 

I tried pulling the fuse, but it threw tons of codes and screwed up the steering (I can't remember the message it said on the dash, something like Steering Assist is Reduced). Once I replaced the fuse and cleared the codes, everything was fine though.

Posted

So I just read the thread the OP referenced and it seems like some people that pull the steering position sensor have the "Steering Assist is Reduced Drive with Care" message. When I pulled my fuse I got this same message and my steering was pretty jacked up. Although, I also got a bunch of codes, so maybe it was something else that got triggered that messed up my steering (but I doubt it). There is a post in the OP referenced thread (by boilers on February 28, 2019) that exactly describes what my steering felt like. See below:

 

"This is interesting. I had an old 1999 K1500  with this exact same steering position sensor. Basically, the ECU used the sensor, and RPM value to vary your power steering pressure and make turning easier, mainly in low speed applications. At one point, my sensor failed and starting producing erratic signals, and it caused my truck steering to intermittently get super light. In turns it would cause you to "over turn". It really freaked me out the first time it happened.  Some people would completely disconnect this sensor when it failed. However this would cause harder steering in low speed turning applications, because obviously, the power steering pump never knew if you where turning, therefore it would never increase pressure at low RPM, making it harder to turn. Most folks said it didn't make much of a difference.

 

Anyway, Id assume this sensor is used to lighten up your steering when turning at low speeds. Disconnecting it will disable this feature. Thankfully though, you will not get odd functionality like I did when my sensor was going out. "

Posted

Excellent job, so if someone is a cheap bastard I could just snip the black wire & put a switch inline, hey presto?

Did it affect the slow speed steering feel?

Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk

Posted
6 hours ago, Mileguru said:

So I just read the thread the OP referenced and it seems like some people that pull the steering position sensor have the "Steering Assist is Reduced Drive with Care" message. When I pulled my fuse I got this same message and my steering was pretty jacked up. Although, I also got a bunch of codes, so maybe it was something else that got triggered that messed up my steering (but I doubt it).

Hey, thanks for the feedback!  What year truck do you have? Before doing this, I drove around with it unplugged for a while and had no side effects that I noticed. Steering felt normal in all situations. When you say "when I pull my fuse" do you mean you are unplugging the sensor? If there is a fuse for the steering position sensor or something, it likely has a different affect on the system than unplugging the sensor itself.. The video I posted is the only thing that happens unplugging the sensor on my truck. I get the two warning messages for stabilitrak and steering (that I can clear with the steering wheel), and I lose my backup turning lines. Otherwise, I know some guys mentioned having it unplugged at all times with no issues.

5 hours ago, Mozzer said:

Excellent job, so if someone is a cheap bastard I could just snip the black wire & put a switch inline, hey presto?

Did it affect the slow speed steering feel?

Also yes, you could just snip and put a switch in the black wire. But I didn't wanna touch the factory harness. No steering issues here.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
Also yes, you could just snip and put a switch in the black wire. But I didn't wanna touch the factory harness. No steering issues here.
Got my switch rigged up on the black wire, thank you very, very much. This is so much better in the snow. With the stabilitrak turned off & traction control on it will let the back slip a little without bogging right down & can turn traction control off with the regular button if wanting to tool around [emoji106]

2014, 5.3, 4x4, work truck

  • Like 1
Posted
16 hours ago, Mozzer said:

Got my switch rigged up on the black wire

What switch did you use, and what gauge wire? Just out of curiosity. Glad it's working for you! I love having the full defeat on an instantaneous switch too. And yeah, having TC on still makes for a playful truck without full off. 

Posted
What switch did you use, and what gauge wire? Just out of curiosity. Glad it's working for you! I love having the full defeat on an instantaneous switch too. And yeah, having TC on still makes for a playful truck without full off. 
I just bought a cheap low profile switch from Canadian Tire & hooked up with some wire I had kicking around, probably about 16 awg & crimped spade connections.

2014, 5.3, 4x4, work truck

  • 1 year later...
  • 7 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 473 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...