Best place to get a reman np261hd tcase

[kmaroman]

Well I finally figured out the noise on my truck, climbed under it today to check the transfer case fluid level and it was bone dry.  Looked on the side and I have two pin holes worn through.

 

So I’m planning to drop the t case myself in the next couples weeks and then probably get a reman since new ones are $2000+.  
 

what’s my best option for remans?  I’d like to get one with the pump rub saver already installed and not break the bank.  Is there a certain brand or company I should be looking for?  
 

thanks for any input  

[davester]

When my TC was failing (rear seal failed and drained all the fluid out), I just refilled it and got another one (also an NP261HD) from a junkyard and rebuilt it my self (new bearings, seals, friction disc, and pump rub plate, while running around with the  bad one, and swapped them when it was convenient.  Cost me about $500cdn for the TC and parts, and maybe 5-8 hours or so of time (not all at once) to do it.

 

It does take some special tools for removing various c-clips and removing & installing the various seals and bearings, but even having to buy them, you'll still be ahead of buying a reman...

 

There's a good youtube video showing step by step how to completely assemble one from a pile of parts.

[tigers2007]

Can’t you just buy the rub kit and then plug up the holes with JB Weld or TIG it? I thought the case halves were pricey. I see used ones on Craigslist and FB marketplace from time to time.


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[davester]

If it's been run out of fluid and making noise, you'll want to at least replace the bearings...

[kmaroman]

On 12/14/2019 at 2:53 AM, davester said:

When my TC was failing (rear seal failed and drained all the fluid out), I just refilled it and got another one (also an NP261HD) from a junkyard and rebuilt it my self (new bearings, seals, friction disc, and pump rub plate, while running around with the  bad one, and swapped them when it was convenient.  Cost me about $500cdn for the TC and parts, and maybe 5-8 hours or so of time (not all at once) to do it.

 

It does take some special tools for removing various c-clips and removing & installing the various seals and bearings, but even having to buy them, you'll still be ahead of buying a reman...

 

There's a good youtube video showing step by step how to completely assemble one from a pile of parts.

I found a used np261 for $160 and went that route, it came out of a running truck with 190k and the guy said it worked.  
 

I bought the pump rub kit so this doesn’t happen again, but for the life of me I can’t get the main shaft to drop after using snap rings plier on it.  Me and a friend tried for hours to no avail 

[davester]

Not sure what you mean by "main shaft to drop"?  I assume you are trying to split the case, and you've

 

-drained the fluid

-removed all the bolts holding the case halves together (noting where & how the various clips on them go)

-removed the rubber plug in the access port and perhaps also the speed sensor, and used snap ring pliers to get the retaining clip off the rear bearing (you can get a screwdriver in the speed sensor opening to help get the retaining clip off the bearing)

 

At this point, you should be able to pry the case halves apart (carefully, there are two spots on opposite sides made for prying, and you want both sides to separate at the same time, as they are still connected via several alignment pins around the perimeter of the cases)

 

Merchant auto has a good video & pdf on doing the job (I would just get the pressed metal plate to put on the OEM pump vs the much more expensive billet pump they sell):

https://www.merchant-automotive.com/Transfer_Case_Pump_Upgrade_Instructions.aspx

 

[kmaroman]

I don’t understand I did exactly like there video, but when I try opening up the snap ring I can’t  get anything to drop free.   Should I be using some kind of special snap ring pliers or something?

[davester]

IIRC, you need to open up the snap ring and get it off the bearing, so any snap ring pliers that can get it apart enough will do the job.  I used a large piston ring spreader, as it has nice flat ends, and enough range to easily spread it enough .  I might have used a pry tool to move the bearing a bit as it may not easily slide in the housing.

 

And I think the last time I did it, I had trouble because I didn't remove the speed sensor, as it interferes with the bearing (the tone wheel is smaller than the bearing, so the bearing will hit the end of the sensor.  I remember spending a bunch of time trying to get it apart, then finding/reading the MA instructions, removing the speed sensor, and then it just came apart.

[kmaroman]

31 minutes ago, davester said:

IIRC, you need to open up the snap ring and get it off the bearing, so any snap ring pliers that can get it apart enough will do the job.  I used a large piston ring spreader, as it has nice flat ends, and enough range to easily spread it enough .  I might have used a pry tool to move the bearing a bit as it may not easily slide in the housing.

 

And I think the last time I did it, I had trouble because I didn't remove the speed sensor, as it interferes with the bearing (the tone wheel is smaller than the bearing, so the bearing will hit the end of the sensor.  I remember spending a bunch of time trying to get it apart, then finding/reading the MA instructions, removing the speed sensor, and then it just came apart.

Yeah we tried a multitude of different things, it seemed like we could it to spread far enough apart just didn’t want to drop down for me.  I’ll mess with it some more tomorrow, another friend who messes with this stuff more often is swinging by with some of his tools