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Flashing check engine light


KRaZiE KiWiE

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Posted
49 minutes ago, CamGTP said:

I would rather have watched each cylinder misfire on the scan tool before going straight to the MAF.

 

The easy solution would have been to just unplug the MAF and if the truck was still misfiring guess what, perhaps it's deeper than the MAF

just checked and it still does misfire. Should I still try to get a new one?

Posted

The "unplug it" test isn't 100% reliable:

 

 

Posted
3 minutes ago, Jsdirt said:

The "unplug it" test isn't 100% reliable:

 

 

Ok imma go get one I’ll update in 30 mins

 

Posted

At least go to NAPA. I wouldn't put anything electrical on any vehicle from Autozone, CAP, or Advance, or O'Reilley's - all junk, usually.

Posted
7 minutes ago, Jsdirt said:

At least go to NAPA. I wouldn't put anything electrical on any vehicle from Autozone, CAP, or Advance, or O'Reilley's - all junk, usually.

Oh ok there is no Napa close right now. Any other suggestions other than maf why it could be misfiring? I’m going to be taking to my mechanic soon

Posted

If you can narrow down which  cylinder(s) are misfiring, like I said prior, swap the coils and wires around. See if the miss follows. Easy test that does't cost you anything. Pull the plug(s) - see what they (it) look(s) like. Could be as simple as a spark plug failure ... but your 14 g/s MAF reading has me thinking otherwise.

 

Before you buy any parts, I'd have your mechanic at least test everything related to the MAF to rule it out ... or in, first.

Posted
1 hour ago, Jsdirt said:

I refuse to install parts from any chain store except for NAPA on customer's vehicles. There's a reason for that - I don't like working TWICE for the same pay.

AMEN. 

Posted
1 hour ago, Jsdirt said:

If you can narrow down which  cylinder(s) are misfiring, like I said prior, swap the coils and wires around. See if the miss follows. Easy test that does't cost you anything. Pull the plug(s) - see what they (it) look(s) like. Could be as simple as a spark plug failure ... but your 14 g/s MAF reading has me thinking otherwise.

 

Before you buy any parts, I'd have your mechanic at least test everything related to the MAF to rule it out ... or in, first.

My mechanic told me that it was a fuel pump. He did not check anything though I just sent him the videos of the scan tool. Any way to check to see if that is it?

Posted

Fuel pressure check, and a fuel volume vs. time test. Also the amp draw of the pump is sometimes helpful, too.

 

An easier check is to set your scan tool up for bank 1 sensor1, and bank 2 sensor 1 o2 sensors ONLY in GRAPH form. Find a stretch of road with no traffic and plenty of room, and do a full-throttle run. No need to go 100 mph - just until it shifts, or a little after if you have the space and speed limit. If the o2s go full rich and stay there, then it's probably not your fuel pump. If they do anything but flatline full rich, then you have a fuel delivery problem (not necessarily a fuel pump problem - could be the wiring, connector, regulator, or filter).

Posted

So much guessing, so little hands on.

 

Probably best to stop suggesting stuff until more information is gathered about the actual misfire code.

 

Going full throttle with misfires is not recommended. Think about it for 2 seconds, if you are wanting to check o2 sensor mv reading they are going to be skewed because if there are misfires you have nothing but unburnt fuel entering the exhaust. The pump could be weak but you'd still have injectors opening and injecting fuel into a cylinder that is not firing.

Posted

Yeah, you're right on that - forgot the thing has a dead miss. Possible double-dead miss. Long week, old age, lol.

 

He should've taken my advice about swapping the coils around at least to rule that out. MAF probably isn't going to cause a single or double miss. I was going off the 0300 - forgot about his videos.

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