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GM 2" lift installed

lapoolboy

By lapoolboy
in Modifications, Wheels & Tires

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Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted

^^^^^you should be fine.....rear shocks are made to work within a range of cpl of inches

 

for some reason the TB kit seems to have more rake than standard models, maybe its not a full 2" in front

Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted

a few have added 1.5 leveling spacer with this kit and still has tiny bit of rake (which I like actually)….

 

just seeing the TB at dealers they look more raked than mine but idk if its true or not...

 

a 1 in block would probably be the call if you want it as level as possible, or add 1.5 RC or motofab spacer to front

Kintnerboyredoubt Enthusiast

Kintnerboyredoubt

Posted
Posted
28 minutes ago, Dunn said:

a few have added 1.5 leveling spacer with this kit and still has tiny bit of rake (which I like actually)….

 

just seeing the TB at dealers they look more raked than mine but idk if its true or not...

 

a 1 in block would probably be the call if you want it as level as possible, or add 1.5 RC or motofab spacer to front

I pulled the trigger on one, I’ve got a set of motofab lower spacers I’m thinking of putting on. With any luck I’ll be able to get them put on when they are doing the lift so I won’t have to get it aligned again. On another note I need to do the “mud flap mod” I tried searching I know I’ve seen it on here, do you just pull the mud flap and remove the mounting bracket then zip tie the mud flap back in position??

 

Found it.

 

You remove the 3 torque screws on the front side of the mudflap, then remove a 10 mm bolt on the back side.  The mudflap can then be pulled away from the truck body and pushed towards the engine bay.  There will be another torque screw holding the carpet wheel liner to the bracket, remove this and pull the wheel liner up and away as much as you can.  This will give you access to the bracket behind it.  The bracket has 4 bolts that have 13 or 14 mm heads.  Remove those and the bracket comes off.  Then put everything back in reverse order.  The final step is to drill a small hole on the back side of the carpeted wheel liner near where it attaches to the rear front mudflap and insert and zip tie it into that new hole and an existing hole on the body near it to pull the flap back.  Do not drill thru the mudflap, just the carpet.  Repeat for the other side.  The whole process took me about 30-45 total for both side and I wasnt in a rush lol. 

Kintnerboyredoubt Enthusiast

Kintnerboyredoubt

Posted
Posted
8 minutes ago, TheTicketTX said:

ReadyLIFT's leveling kit is the way to go if you have a TB or AT4. I have it on my TB and it is perfect

My dealer told me to avoid changing uca for warranty purposes... but for decent geometry it’s necessary. Tough call... others on here say the stock uca still looks decent with the level so it’s hard to decide. You’re dumping another $600 for the ready lift system, it starts snowballing real quick. If  like me you are having to buy the factory lift to start with suddenly you’re looking down the barrel at $3000 after parts and install. For what amounts to a 3” lift with rancho shocks that’s tough to swallow. You can get into coil overs from icon or king and some forged UCAs for not much more money at that point.

TheTicketTX Enthusiast

TheTicketTX

Posted
Posted
38 minutes ago, Kintnerboyredoubt said:

My dealer told me to avoid changing uca for warranty purposes... but for decent geometry it’s necessary. Tough call... others on here say the stock uca still looks decent with the level so it’s hard to decide. You’re dumping another $600 for the ready lift system, it starts snowballing real quick. If  like me you are having to buy the factory lift to start with suddenly you’re looking down the barrel at $3000 after parts and install. For what amounts to a 3” lift with rancho shocks that’s tough to swallow. You can get into coil overs from icon or king and some forged UCAs for not much more money at that point.

Those factory UCAs will wear out quickly with any lift if you do a decent amount of off road work. Plus, the dealership can't void your warranty due to a leveling kit..... or new UCAs... hard to prove that those new parts were the cause of any issue. Don't let them lie to you

 

$499 level kit w/ UCAs, plus local shop install w/ alignment $125..... that's hard to beat. Plus you'll have new UCAs that will prob last you a lifetime w/ replaceable ball joints and maintenance-free pivot bushings with side-biter washers to improve alignment retention.

 

Anyways, you will need aftermarket UCAs if you decide to go with performance coil overs. Those shitty factory UCAs wont hold up

TheTicketTX Enthusiast

TheTicketTX

Posted
Posted
10 minutes ago, Kintnerboyredoubt said:

^ sage advice. I think my plan is to run the factory lift until my warranty expires and then get the Mazzulla UCA/ King setup. But that Mazzulla keeps calling my name, the struggle.

For sure. I was looking at Mazzulla too, but i think im going with Filty Motorsports OEM Kit. You can add Deaver Rear Leaf Springs tuned to your package

https://www.filthymotorsports.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=KING-25001-174

Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted

can anyone confirm if this kit is actually a full 2in in front, or is it more like 1.5 or 1.75?.....they sure seem to have a lot of rake and seems 1.75 levels a TB?.....

 

nevermind I found one

 

front is about 1.75 and rear is 2, that's reason for excessive rake it seems

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