Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
1 hour ago, Core-Lokt said:

LINK

 

They're metal and ~$11-$12 per pair. There is also some silver ones.

 

EDIT: If you prefer metric call-outs, there's THESE and are available in a few color choices.

 

 

 

41q+qg219mL._AC_.webp

Just ordered them. I like the throwback 400 too. Like your truck, mine is white with the red Z71 badge so the 400 will go well. Not too flashy and gives a bit of pop to the boating black plastic hood inserts

  • Thanks 1
Posted

I installed these Onine running boards today, and got them Black Friday for $20.00 less. They have four brackets per side and all hardware was present. They are pretty high clearance, so that might be an issue for some-but worked out great for me. There's ~1"-1.5" lateral adjustment and quite a bit of fore/aft.

 

IMG_0236.jpg

Posted
On 12/23/2022 at 5:39 PM, sballmann45 said:

Built a mount for two Rigid Industries 360 6in lights.

IMG_0624.HEIC.jpg

IMG_0617.HEIC.jpg

What about those three small amber lights? Is there a post on those and where did you splice in for power?

Posted

Today I did a couple of things; first, Suspension Maxx stabilizer. Plenty of how-to videos about this. Can't tell a difference, but the truck has ~600 miles so everything is tight.

IMG_0246.jpg

IMG_0247.jpg

Posted

Next was a Roadmaster sway bar. Parts looks largely the same as Hellwig, but the price is around half. It's solid steel bar stock, and heavy. Since my truck is so new, it hasn't been used yet for cargo or trailering, but I can tell some difference when going over a dip.

IMG_0248.jpg

IMG_0249.jpg

Posted
On 12/26/2022 at 5:37 PM, Pryme said:

What about those three small amber lights? Is there a post on those and where did you splice in for power?

I did not make a post on those. I wired them in parallel and used a fuse tap to accessory power. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Put on my “400” badges. 
 

they seem like good quality. They are metal and look factory next to the Z71 badges. 
 

I like the throw back to cubic inches vs liters now days. 
 

 

61174047-19B6-4E68-9888-59C9C78599C6.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted
On 1/2/2023 at 7:01 PM, Pryme said:

This forum needs work. It’s the only forum that can’t load a picture properly. 

9617F11A-DF1E-4B25-AE49-21406623970D.jpeg

looks great! Really, these are nice for the price.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

I came across this and am posting in case anyone might be interested. Not many left per Amazon, and you never know if something gets restocked. It's the same size emblem as on MultiFlex tailgates and looks like it's need a small hole drilled in the skin to feed a cylindrical connector. I got one since I got the Kicker tailgate audio, and that itself requires some holes drilled. That will eventually be done, but first will be interior stuff and second replacement bumpers.

 

Anyway, it uses a four-wire plug for power and would be a pretty easy and relatively inexpensive mod.

71tUefOrGnL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

81EtchluLcL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Next is replacing red tow hooks with black, replacing wheels with a set of Denali 20 take offs I picked up for $1,400, and tint.

 

 

AFF512E6-2066-4D93-B27A-B188EA9ED204.jpeg

Posted
1 hour ago, swaptrex14 said:

Next is replacing red tow hooks with black, replacing wheels with a set of Denali 20 take offs I picked up for $1,400, and tint.

 

 

AFF512E6-2066-4D93-B27A-B188EA9ED204.jpeg

Tshirts and palm trees. Not from my neck of the woods haha. 
 

nice to be able to work on your truck pretty much all year would be nice. 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Big day yesterday-and a little into today. I did a High Country cluster/upfitter switches, and wireless charging console to replacement. There's tutorials here for upfitter switches and at YT.  For a video on cluster swap, I recommend this VIDEO that explains the process and what extras it can get you. For the console top swap, I recommend this Blue Garage tutorial mainly because I only found one other and that dude cut it super short, omitting many important details. Also Blue Garage's video is the only one I know of that touches on installing the cooling duct for the charger. And that is one heck of a deal to get that in, so well worth watching.

 

If you're planning on doing at least two of these mods, it's best to do them at the same time since so many of the dash panels needing removed are common to all three mods. Probably will do the radio module reprogram at some point so the speed limit will show on the cluster and I can get HD terrestrial radio.

 

 

 

IMG_0301.jpg

IMG_0302.jpg

IMG_0303.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,284 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...