Always satsified when the answer includes facts 👍 The physics and chemistry make sense. In the context of "high mileage" oils I think about old engines. An iron 4.3, for example. There are no oil jets cooling the back of the pistons, and VVT, what? LOL. The reality is plenty of modern engines are also "eligible" for high mileage oils. You may have noticed this too as time goes on, but 25 years ago can feel like 5 years ago sometimes.
I wondered if I should put R&P in that old 4.3 of mine. No idea what it's used in the past couple of years but best I can tell, bulk oil from lube shops, based on the last documented services.
It's not what I'd call a clean engine.
What's the usual cleanup time for R&P? I'm guessing it depends on how bad the deposits are, but are we talking one oil change, two, three?
So after about 40k miles I'm down to 8/32" and getting noisier every day.
What I've learned:
1. Keep your tires at 50/45 unless you're towing or hauling for best fuel economy and even tire wear. (mpg is 19@77 and 21 @ 75)
2. 0-60 goes from ~5.5 to ~7.0
3. Airing down on the beach is optional but still results in a much easier time.
4. Ride is still great up to about 70...then (as my son states) feels like riding on cobblestone streets.
5. Offroad traction...great. On-road in the wet...not so much.
Now off to selecting another tire...maybe pirelli scorpion xtm at?
Exactly what it is. Remove the drive shaft, clean it with brake cleaner and put new grease back in it the yoke. Mine would make the noise shifting and even driving over bumps.
https://youtu.be/L5-Dt2RdmbU?is=iYsoJ-0nWdrGgn2-
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