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2014 Silverado electrical nightmare

Johnbellaville

By Johnbellaville
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

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Johnbellaville Enthusiast

Johnbellaville

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Posted

Truck has 67000 miles stabilitrak lights brake lights abs I loose power steering truck will skip radio will cut out and truck will eventually throw a check engine light and loose overdrive and what seems to be first gear ...G218 has been done as we’ll as other side local shop put a bcm in at 526$ still have the same problems which seem to show more when it’s wet and cold any help is appreciated 

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Jaychevy81
Jaychevy81

I have read on FB there is a ground wire under the drivers A pillar that when the truck was built it’s half on the cab insulation and half on the truck. If you pull the A pillar towards the dash spea

carnau
carnau

Man your dealer kinda sucks. At my dealership, if it doesn't fix the issue... You do not pay. They should have done a loaded voltage drop test on your battery cables before replacing them. Ask them to

carnau
carnau

You can have issues with batter cables. We have had alot of issues with them from 2007 - 2013. The voltage drop within the cable (resistance) gets above 1volt. so when you're cranking, driving, ect yo

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BigBadSierra Senior Enthusiast

BigBadSierra

Posted
Posted

Check all of the grounds..  mainly the battery ground. This is a common issue with these trucks after a few years.

Jaychevy81 Enthusiast

Jaychevy81

Posted
Posted

I have read on FB there is a ground wire under the drivers A pillar that when the truck was built it’s half on the cab insulation and half on the truck. If you pull the A pillar towards the dash speaker you can see it. Just a thought


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Johnbellaville Enthusiast

Johnbellaville

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1 hour ago, BigBadSierra said:

Check all of the grounds..  mainly the battery ground. This is a common issue with these trucks after a few years.

Thanks will do

Ozer Enthusiast

Ozer

Posted
Posted

The negative battery cable is a culprit to many grounding issues w/o any signs of it going bad.

Run a second ground wire from Negative terminal across the firewall to the ground bolt next to the brake booster. About $15 fix from parts store.

This may fix some issues, if not you are at least covered if and when the original ground cable acts up. This fixed all my ground issues.

I also heard the driver side fuse block tends to corrode on the underside, you may want to check that. I think it can be removed, i never tried.

L86 All Terrain Senior Enthusiast

L86 All Terrain

Posted
Posted

I had the negative battery issue with my K2 2500. Had the same symptoms as you more or less, told me two week wait to get it looked at. I said to them its not really safe to drive when your headlights cut out at night. So I took it into my shop and the neg cable was loose on battery and ground was a bit loose on frame so I put some grease on it and tightened it up. Was ok after that. Good luck. 

  • 4 weeks later...
Johnbellaville Enthusiast

Johnbellaville

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All grounds checked and cleaned took to dealer and they replaced positive and negative cables 450$ still having the same issue 1000$ this month no luck 

carnau Enthusiast

carnau

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2 hours ago, Johnbellaville said:

All grounds checked and cleaned took to dealer and they replaced positive and negative cables 450$ still having the same issue 1000$ this month no luck 

Man your dealer kinda sucks. At my dealership, if it doesn't fix the issue... You do not pay. They should have done a loaded voltage drop test on your battery cables before replacing them. Ask them to clear all the codes please and then when it happens again ask them if they will hook up GDS2 and give you a report on all the codes that set after it came on. Come back here and post ALL (doesn't matter how trivial you think they are) of the codes. I am the Electrical specialist at the dealership here. Been that for the last 20 years. This is what I do. Lol

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Johnbellaville Enthusiast

Johnbellaville

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6 hours ago, carnau said:

Man your dealer kinda sucks. At my dealership, if it doesn't fix the issue... You do not pay. They should have done a loaded voltage drop test on your battery cables before replacing them. Ask them to clear all the codes please and then when it happens again ask them if they will hook up GDS2 and give you a report on all the codes that set after it came on. Come back here and post ALL (doesn't matter how trivial you think they are) of the codes. I am the Electrical specialist at the dealership here. Been that for the last 20 years. This is what I do. Lol

They still have it and if I remember right they said it was loosing communication to just about everything  but I will ask thanks wish you were in ga

carnau Enthusiast

carnau

Posted
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On 2/28/2020 at 12:39 PM, BlaineBug said:

I'm confused, what's wrong with the original battery cables?  You don't see these battery cable issues on vehicles that are 40 years old, seriously.

You can have issues with batter cables. We have had alot of issues with them from 2007 - 2013. The voltage drop within the cable (resistance) gets above 1volt. so when you're cranking, driving, ect you already have 1volt of drop. So if you battery ever drops to 11volts, in actuality you only have 10.

 

Can be a common issue, but there are ways you check without throwing parts on vehicles.

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BlaineBug Enthusiast

BlaineBug

Posted
Posted

I understand that, normally I've seen issues with loose terminals on the battery posts or a loose connection between terminal clamp and cable.  What are other causes of high resistance in wiring besides corrosion beneath the insulation or a break in the wire that degrades a significant amount of the copper strands?

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