Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
U averaged 30 MPG with the  lift and tires added?

That was before the lift. Sorry for the confusion. I’m down about 5mpgs since the lift and tires. Still not bad.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
9 minutes ago, FrankK986 said:


That was before the lift. Sorry for the confusion. I’m down about 5mpgs since the lift and tires. Still not bad.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So around 25mpg now? That’s pretty good!

Posted
So around 25mpg now? That’s pretty good!

Yep - and I’m pretty happy with that!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Posted
On 2/8/2020 at 3:43 PM, FrankK986 said:

IMG_1410.thumb.jpg.3237f4875ae2ae22b778d80276c6f69a.jpgIMG_1064.thumb.jpg.85bdf5d2a4d6a6c5c8c3d36259af038a.jpg

 

Recently made the transition from a 2018 Tacoma TRD Off-Road Double Cab Short Bed to a 2020 Silverado Z71 Duramax 3.0 RST Crew Cab. Just completed the lift and wheel/tire package. Here are the details and some photos. The 10mm Bora spacers are arriving today and will install those. Overall, the truck rides great. I had Nitto Ridge Grapplers on my Tacoma and currently have 33" BFG Mud Terrain's on my '00 lifted Wrangler Sahara. after about 100mi, I'm pleased with the Toyo's. Will be getting an alignment next week even though it rides pretty straight.

 

CUSTOM OFFSETS:

- Toyo Open Country MT LT295/60/20

- Fuel Rebel 20x10 -18mm 6x5.5 matte dark bronze

- Bora aluminum 0.375 spacers

- Setup is very similar to this

SUPERLIFT:

- 3" lift kit for '19-'20 Silverado.

 

I removed both mud flaps. There's a lot of rub up front, most all of it is against the felt wheel well liner. I will pull that back and likely end up putting the mud flaps back on. I plan to add some sort of running board/step as the truck is pretty high and the step up into it is not easy.

 

Feel free to ask any questions or let me know if I missed anything. As far as the truck, I have about 700mi on it and really enjoy driving it. The torque and effortless power from the diesel is amazing. First 50mi road trip from Boston to Cape Cod I got 31.8mpg. This is mostly flat and I was making a conscious effort to achieve good economy.

 

-Frank

 

 

 

Do you need the spacers to clear the calipers for this wheel or was this just a preference? I'm looking to put the rebels on my Silverado too 

Posted

The calipers and suspension components actually clear fine. I did this as a precaution by May end up removing them unless i get fender flairs. They stuck a little too much.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
1 hour ago, FrankK986 said:

The calipers and suspension components actually clear fine. I did this as a precaution by May end up removing them unless i get fender flairs. They stuck a little too much.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Awesome, thanks! I don't think I'm going to go with the spacers if they clear fine. Hows the rub on your setup? Do you get full lock out of the steering?

Posted
3 minutes ago, Nathan Howells said:

Awesome, thanks! I don't think I'm going to go with the spacers if they clear fine. Hows the rub on your setup? Do you get full lock out of the steering?

I got a lot of rub initially. I removed the front mud flaps and then trimmed the metal around where they connect at the bottom with a dremel.

Posted

I’m really surprised you had rubbing issues.  My research albeit limited indicates the factory 20” rims were a +28 offset.  Going to a -18 offset should have gained you 46mm or 1.8” (not to mention your spacers).  The 275 to 295 is only about a 3/4” increase unless I’m missing something or not understanding offsets.

Posted (edited)

I believe the more negative you go into wheel offsets, the more likely  you will have rubbing issues on the outside perimeter of the wheel well and some of the inner liner. Just because you go negative in offset doesn't mean you are actually gaining clearance. Yes, off the upper control arm you will gain clearance but then you loose clearance within the wheel well. Correct me if I am wrong!

Edited by jimmyjames636
new sentence added.
Posted
3 hours ago, jimmyjames636 said:

I believe the more negative you go into wheel offsets, the more likely  you will have rubbing issues on the outside perimeter of the wheel well and some of the inner liner. Just because you go negative in offset doesn't mean you are actually gaining clearance. Yes, off the upper control arm you will gain clearance but then you loose clearance within the wheel well. Correct me if I am wrong!

That makes sense.

Posted
5 hours ago, FrankK986 said:

I got a lot of rub initially. I removed the front mud flaps and then trimmed the metal around where they connect at the bottom with a dremel.

Sounds good I plan on trimming to make them fit. Im not too worried about the rubbing as much as being able to get a full turn out of it. Does yours allow for full lock or close? Im planning on putting a 33.7" tires so I didn't know if yours was at full lock or close enough. 

Posted

Thank you! I wasn’t either, but searched Custom Offset’s site and found the exact same setup and really like it. Won’t (m)any folks in Boston with this setup, that’s for sure.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I saw that same truck! Haha I was basing a lot of my choices of how it looked. Truck looks beautiful !! Side note, how quick did custom offsets get you your setup from time of order to door? I'm curious to see if it is truly that 10-15 business days. I paid for expedited shipping.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
6 hours ago, BlackRST said:


I saw that same truck! Haha I was basing a lot of my choices of how it looked. Truck looks beautiful !! Side note, how quick did custom offsets get you your setup from time of order to door? I'm curious to see if it is truly that 10-15 business days. I paid for expedited shipping.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Too funny! I was in a unique situation where I was out of town when the shipment was supposed to get here so even paying the expedited shipping it wasn't fast. They had to put a hold on my stuff and then I had to work with them to release it. They also forgot to tell me they weren't shipping the spacers with the main shipment so that screwed everything up. Then the TPMS didn't register with the truck after they told me they would. It was an act of God to try and get them to tell me WHICH type of TPMS they installed (hint, it was the wrong one). All I could get out of them was the brand, ITM.

 

Needless to say they said they'd cover the costs of making right and getting three TPMS light to turn off. At the time I had another vehicle I was selling (2018 Tacoma) that also had TPMS issues as I had swapped tires back on it so my focus was that vehicle. I still have the lights on almost 3 mos later. I just have to bring it to a garage to have them fix it as the Chevy dealer tried and couldn't because they aren't factory. Real pain in the ass.

Posted
Too funny! I was in a unique situation where I was out of town when the shipment was supposed to get here so even paying the expedited shipping it wasn't fast. They had to put a hold on my stuff and then I had to work with them to release it. They also forgot to tell me they weren't shipping the spacers with the main shipment so that screwed everything up. Then the TPMS didn't register with the truck after they told me they would. It was an act of God to try and get them to tell me WHICH type of TPMS they installed (hint, it was the wrong one). All I could get out of them was the brand, ITM.
 
Needless to say they said they'd cover the costs of making right and getting three TPMS light to turn off. At the time I had another vehicle I was selling (2018 Tacoma) that also had TPMS issues as I had swapped tires back on it so my focus was that vehicle. I still have the lights on almost 3 mos later. I just have to bring it to a garage to have them fix it as the Chevy dealer tried and couldn't because they aren't factory. Real pain in the ass.

That was actually has me worried is there seems to be a lot of miscommunication with them. I have two emails where they both say "okay sir we will ship the spacers seperate"...yet I call today to double check things and Carly the rep said oh we're waiting on spacers to finish your order. I was mind blown and pretty pissed off. Considering I could of had the wheels realistically mid next week which would have lined up with my days off. But what can ya do. How hard was getting coordinated with the freight company?

Ps I don't mean to thread jack I love the set up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Progress... sort of.   Intake is disassembled, spider is out, fuel lines removed. Used a torch on the stripped screw with the lower intake off, much easier when I've got the intake sitting on my workbench, I made it talk. Walked right out with a pair of vice grips once it was nice and toasty hot.   New parts are piling up on my service cart waiting to be installed. Distributor, temperature sensor, new gaskets, fuel line kit, themostat, water neck.   My new pickle is I don't want to spend $600 on a replacement spider. I'm not sure IT is bad. I'm probably splitting hairs. Or it's $300 to send mine away and another 3 weeks of the truck just sitting. I have half a mind to assemble everything with the old spider to see if I can get away with just replacing the fuel pressure regulator to be safe. The obvious issue was the gushing high pressure fuel line which will be replaced. Getting to the spider really isn't that hard, and now I know what I'm doing , swapping it would be a breeze should it absolutely need one. Stupid, or smart?   The part that gives me pause is replacing the distributor. Well, it's already out. And I didn't mark it, whoopsie! Engine was at TDC when I removed it, I know that, so upon correct reinstall the metal tip on the rotor should point to the TDC mark on the distributor because that's where it was pointing on the old distributor. Worst case I'm a tooth off and have to re-stab it.   But then, what? I assume the truck will start. It doesn't appear the timing can be set. Here's the problem: These distributors can't be rotated but a degree or two, by design. What I read is Cam ****** needs to be -2 to +2 degrees, ideally at 0 (and checked/set above 1000 rpm). There should be enough wiggle to get that properly set, but checking the reported value is another potential issue. My Actron 9185 scanner says it supports enhanced GM PIDs and Cam ****** is one of them but it's unclear that I'll be able to correctly see it over OBD 1.5. I can see why people end up junking these things with life left in them. They're an absolute nightmare with tweener-year diagnostics/electronics and unobtanium parts.   Fingers crossed it starts and idles nicely. There can be hope, right? I'ma buy a lottery ticket the same day just in case.   Next steps..DO IT. I have not installed an intake before so I've been reading and watching a lot. Some say NO RTV except on china walls, some say DO RTV on water ports but not fuel/air intake. 1/4 or 3/8 bead on China walls? I think my strategy will be, obviously, RTV china walls with overlap on the gasket corners. Chapstick-style RTV the water ports. Leave intake ports dry. The only set of intake gaskets I could find locally are Edelbrock performance gaskets (uh...for an asthmatic 190hp V6? LOL) so we'll see how they do.   #NoToolLeftBehind. It took an hour, but my recovery mission for my deep 10mm socket was successful. It had rolled down the bellhousing and wedged itself between what I think are the fuel lines? I couldn't see it at all, but with a junk antenna I had laying around, I blindly went poking/sweeping for it, heard it clink, raised the truck, and caught a sliver glimpse of chrome with a flashlight way up there in Narnia. I had pushed it farther along the lines holding it captive, but within access of severely improvised tools, poking and cursing at it to finally knock it free to where I could get a fingertip on it to bring it home.    Not much to see.      
    • Thats crazy considering im right next door (Indiana)
    • For a limited time, retail and commercial accounts receive an AMSOIL Vinyl Tool Tray with their order of $500 or more when they use code TRAY726 at checkout. The promotion runs through July 21, 2026.   Order at https://syntheticadvantage.com   Want to use AMSOIL in your business or sell at your store, apply here.  https://www.amsoil.com/business-opportunities/?zo=521390  
    • It wouldn’t have happened if the government hadn’t mandated outrageous fuel mileage standards. It does very little for the consumer. It adds cost. Back during Covid there was a chip shortage. They gave a rebate for your truck if it didn’t have the chip to turn on cylinder deactivation. It was 50$ because at best you may see 1/2 a mile increase per gallon. Splitting hairs each fuel mileage trick wasn’t mandated. The government doesn’t do the engineering work and say use this until it’s already in use and they like it. The fuel mileage was mandated. And those add ons the results. There’s a mandate and they are the results.
    • It was never mandated.  Ever.    Automakers were incentivized to install it by getting CAFE credits to help with their vehicle fleet fuel economy scores.  They were being handed money/CAFE credits to install it.  Which is NOT a mandate.       The current admin removed the incentives that were behind them installing it.       
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...