Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Does anybody have experience with the Eibach ride-height adjustable front leveling shocks for our trucks? I had been waiting on Bilstein 5100's, but these caught my eye...

 

https://eibach.com/us/i-12054-pro-truck-sport-shock-ride-height-adjustable-single-front.html

 

Appear to be the same concept as the Bilsteins I had on my 2011 GMC.

 

Note: I found a few threads in the 2014-2018 forum, and I found where some 2019-20 T1 owners have used Eibachs, but I haven't found where any T1 owners have used the Eibach ride-height adjustables...

 

Thanks. 

Edited by UGAreb
Posted

Interested as well. From what I gather you can only use their struts with their springs but can you use your springs with their struts?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

yes, can be done both ways, though youll gain bit more height with their spring

  • Like 2
Posted

Yes, per the Eibach instructions, you can use the struts alone, or you can combine them with Eibach springs. Either way works. 

Posted

First time poster here, been lurking for awhile.  I bought a 2019 LT Z71 a few months ago and absolutely hated the pogo stick bouncy ride whenever I'd hit consecutive large bumps at highway speed.  I bit the bullet and installed the Eibach RHA shocks a few weeks ago.  I set the adjusting clip on the third step from the bottom, which according to their documentation is supposed to give 1.2 to 1.7 inch lift.  Mine netted out at the high end of that scale, resulting in my measurements on the fenderwells being exactly even.  As far as the ride goes, it definitely stiffened it up.  It took care of that bouncy ride motion but now I feel smaller irregularities more than before.  It's not at all objectionable to me but it is a change.  The stock shocks were extremely plush and the truck floated like a 70s large luxury car, which was nice some of the time but downright dangerous whenever encountering those large consecutive bumps.  Where before a large bump would have the suspension moving up and down three times before settling, it now only moves once.  Much more controllable and safer feeling.  

  • Like 4
Posted
6 hours ago, Gary Lamborn said:

First time poster here, been lurking for awhile.  I bought a 2019 LT Z71 a few months ago and absolutely hated the pogo stick bouncy ride whenever I'd hit consecutive large bumps at highway speed.  I bit the bullet and installed the Eibach RHA shocks a few weeks ago.  I set the adjusting clip on the third step from the bottom, which according to their documentation is supposed to give 1.2 to 1.7 inch lift.  Mine netted out at the high end of that scale, resulting in my measurements on the fenderwells being exactly even.  As far as the ride goes, it definitely stiffened it up.  It took care of that bouncy ride motion but now I feel smaller irregularities more than before.  It's not at all objectionable to me but it is a change.  The stock shocks were extremely plush and the truck floated like a 70s large luxury car, which was nice some of the time but downright dangerous whenever encountering those large consecutive bumps.  Where before a large bump would have the suspension moving up and down three times before settling, it now only moves once.  Much more controllable and safer feeling.  

Thanks for posting, Gary! That’s exactly the info I was looking for. I was wondering, if I bought them, which adjustment step would be best to set the clip at. My Sierra X31 crew cab is exactly 2” lower in front than In back. I was conflicted between the third and fourth settings. If you have a Z71 crew cab, I assume your suspension is identical to mine. The third notch sounds like the ticket to avoid a front end-high situation. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Yes, mine was actually 1.75" higher in the rear, and as I said it now sits exactly level.  It's interesting because my son thinks it's just a little bit nose-high but measurements show it to be even.  Optical illusion I guess, but I am thinking about putting a one inch block on the rear just to restore a slight bit of rake.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 2/18/2020 at 8:59 PM, Gary Lamborn said:

First time poster here, been lurking for awhile.  I bought a 2019 LT Z71 a few months ago and absolutely hated the pogo stick bouncy ride whenever I'd hit consecutive large bumps at highway speed.  I bit the bullet and installed the Eibach RHA shocks a few weeks ago.  I set the adjusting clip on the third step from the bottom, which according to their documentation is supposed to give 1.2 to 1.7 inch lift.  Mine netted out at the high end of that scale, resulting in my measurements on the fenderwells being exactly even.  As far as the ride goes, it definitely stiffened it up.  It took care of that bouncy ride motion but now I feel smaller irregularities more than before.  It's not at all objectionable to me but it is a change.  The stock shocks were extremely plush and the truck floated like a 70s large luxury car, which was nice some of the time but downright dangerous whenever encountering those large consecutive bumps.  Where before a large bump would have the suspension moving up and down three times before settling, it now only moves once.  Much more controllable and safer feeling.  

did you use stock springs or eibachs?

Posted

I talked to them on Friday, says theyre done but there is something wrong with paperwork or something, he going to call me tomorrow after he talks to dude in charge of this kit.....crazy how long some companies are taking getting this stuff out, i guess they aren't big sellers.....if it was new Tacoma everyone would have it done ASAP....

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Looking for some help here: I have a 2019 crew LT z71. I want to level but avoid any nose up. Planning to do eibach adjustable shocks. My question is getting the level height right. When comparing to many on the threads (non trail boss or at4) my factory stance seems much different in existing rake and ride height. Currently ground to rear measures at 38 7/8 and front 37 3/4. Roughly 1 1/8” different. Same tire to fender rear 7 1/4 and front 6 1/2. I have about 20k mi so maybe some settling in. I’m concerned the adjustable setting on the shocks putting me at 1.7” could get me nose high. Of course I could add a block to the rear though trying to get it right with the front level. Were others this close on ride height and successful with a 1.5” or in this case 1.7” level? There is one lower setting on the eibach, but doesn’t seem right to do all the effort for .07”. Welcoming any helpful input here. Thank you. 

Posted (edited)

Rear blocks are almost always installed when leveling the front end.  Since rear blocks are so cheap, nearly inconsequential to overall costs, most people raise the front to their desired height then purchase the appropriate sized rear block to get the amount of rake(level) that they want.  My suggestion would be to measure the height of your front fender, add that dimension to whatever size lift/level you are installing, then compare that combined total height to the height of your rear fender to get an idea of what size block you will want in the rear.  If you raise the front 2 inches, most will put at least a 1" block in the rear to compensate.  I installed the Eibach system in my non-TB Z71(shocks and springs up front with shocks in the rear) and wound up using a 2" block in the back to make it somewhat level.  

 

You should anticipate purchasing rear blocks anytime you level/lift your truck, and use the rear blocks as the means by which you actually "level" the truck once you know how high you want the front.

Edited by Gangly
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I installed front/rear Eibach shocks with the leveling coils. Be sure to do a front-end alignment. Purchased Falkan 276/65R20's on chevy 20' rims. Works fine. Glad I did it. Cheers.

  • 3 years later...
Posted

2019 Silverado 5.3l 4x4. 265/70/17 defenders. 1.5 in rake originally and wanted to try to keep some without having to add 1inch block in back.  l went with second clip rather than third which gave me that upper .8 inch lift lift in front using the original springs. Not overly noticeable from outside but also prevents the feeling the need to add 1 inch block in back. 100k miles on original shocks and struts. ride in my case was night and day difference but might vary on everyone’s wear. also had a blown out right front strut. anyway there is no more bounce, ride feels much smoother, body roll is at a minimum. ( again had bad front right strut). 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I’m out of ideas on this truck. 2020 Silverado 1500. 5.3 135,000 miles. Has a p0308 and p050d codes. Smokes From exhaust when cold. Compression test passed. New plugs, wires and coil on cyl 8. Same issue. New coil on 8, no change. Replaced injectors, no change. Bore scope showed oil pooled on the piston after sitting overnight. Pulled head and had machine shop check it out. No cracks. Stem seals looked good, replaced anyways. He also ground valve seats. Put it all back together and still have the same issue. Bore scope shows oil on the piston again. Leaning towards maybe a cracked ring but unsure. Cylinder looked good when the head was off, no scoring or scratches. Any ideas on what else I should look for?  Appreciate the help 
    • Just want to make sure it is covered by Special Coverage N232395310 Evaporative Emission Purge Pump 2021 Silverado 1500 Custom 2.7L L3B ~100k miles I'm getting DTCs P146B and P146F. VIN 3GCPWBEK2MGxxxxxx   I spoke to a person that works at GM and he said it is not covered after checking my VIN.   Is there anyone here who currently works for a GM/Chevrolet dealership and has access to GM Global Warranty Management / Investigate Vehicle History who could explain how the VIN eligibility is determined?   thank you    
    • Thanks for all that information, I might purchase one and see if it will work for me, if not they may let me return it! Yes for sure the tires are definitely within limit for my truck empty, and when I do tow I'll definitely make sure to raise the rear psi for the amount of weight that's going to be on it.
    • Yes exactly, more and more these days people/companies are afraid of liability issues so its easier just to say no rather than risk putting their neck on the line.    I will say with the Autel unit or when I used it last year on my truck, it wasn't like I could choose the 2025 model year or even the 2024 model year as that option was not there to manipulate the placard pressures but had to go back to 2023 or there abouts and then it showed up as an option, odd but that was how the software was then and I can't say one way or the other now as they throw out updates every so often. I still would talk to your tire dealer though to start with and they may do it for nothing but also they may have a comment on a better unit to purchase. All I know is that one of the large tire shops in my area happens to use these Autel units for their use and set them up to use the wifi and all of that jazz for constant updating because each tire tech has one handed to them by the shop but I just plugged it into my laptop to update it and yes if one is bought it has to be registered so you can get the link to do updates and then the unit has to be updated before its even used. I am not at all techy so it took me a bit but anyway just a heads up for anything you buy, most likely it will need to be connected to a computer to access the internet to have it updated to the latest software version before you can put it to use.   If your truck is near empty, those tire pressures you listed are a very safe upper range pressures to carry the weight, both the front and rear as I know they could be run lower yet with an empty truck. And if its a trailer and not some motorcycle your going to strap onto the front of your truck on a rack, you shouldn't have a need to inflate your front tires if your at 55 front already, its the rear ones that would need more air if you have much hitch weight. 
    • Thank you, I'll check that Autel scanner out and see if it will work for me! Ya I can see GM's point of view if they lower the psi set value for someone and the person sell's the truck and the new owner puts the factory tires back on then their could be liability issues cause the psi warning light wasn't coming on when the tires were under inflated for towing their load and then it might be able to be traced back to GM lowering it.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...