Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Things have changed a bit.  I am going to abandon the cameras in the 3rd Brake Light assembly in place.  I am going to disconnect the camera for the rearview mirror and connect a new factory camera from the sharkfin to the mirror.  This way I don’t have to remove the headliner. 

55DD454C-B9EF-427E-865C-1D3980E59476.jpeg

  • Like 2
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
On 2/27/2020 at 4:43 PM, joguzman711 said:

Is there a better option?  

I installed a LEER shell on the bed of my 2020 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD truck.  The shell is now blocking the 3rd brake light camera so that the feature of using a camera vs a mirror in the rear view mirror unit is now not an option.  I am limited to see what’s behind me using side mirrors only.  Below are my thoughts and notes:

 

The 2020 Silverado 2500 HD has a “Spoiler” on the back of the cab that houses the 3rd Brake Light assembly.  There are two cameras on that 3rd brake light assembly identified in the attached pictorial diagram as #4 and #6.  #4 Camera is listed as an Auxiliary Rearview Camera that works in conjunction with the trailer view camera feature and the #6 camera is the RearView mirror camera that allows one to see behind him via a flip of a switch on the mirror itself.

 

It appears that in order to remove the 3rd Brake Light assembly you will either have to remove the entire headliner or simply move the back of the headliner enough to access the screws (10) & (11) that secures the spoiler in place. Once removed, you can remove the 3rd Brake Light Assembly and replace it with a 3rd Brake Light assembly without cameras.  The 3rd Brake Light assembly connects to a harness listed as (9) on the pictorial diagram. 

 

My plan is to take the OEM 3rd Brake Light assembly apart and remove both cameras.  Purchase a Kia Telluride GPS Shark Fin antenna and gut it.  Mount the cameras onto it and install it on the LEER shell roof 5” from the back hatch.  Ensure I splice in enough conductor (15-20 ft)  to run it to the harness (#9) in the cab.  This should provide a plug and play installation.  I will need to ensure that the angles of the cameras mounted on the shark fin are correct.  Reinstall headliner after I verify all is functioning correctly.  Does anyone have any thoughts on this?  Is there a better option?

Spoiler Diagram.jpeg

You don't happen to have the p/n for #5 do you?

On 2/27/2020 at 4:43 PM, joguzman711 said:

 

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 3/29/2020 at 12:43 AM, sneyeper said:

You don't happen to have the p/n for #5 do you?

 

I am hoping to attempt to add this to ours along with the associated rearview mirror ... the closest dealer is not responsive at all.  Eventually part lists will make it out of the internet I guess.

 

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I just found this extremely interesting post... and suddenly it stopped!   I also fall within the same conditions mentioned above, was any further advancement in the whole camera relocation/addition process? I just got both truck and camper. 2020 AT4 and Leer.

 

Regards.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Anyone get this working yet?  My main interest is what is the proper cable to connect to the camera cable.  I intend to pull the cameras from 3rd brake light, plug in an extension camera cable, then make a custom third brake light for the Leer shell with the main rear view camera in it.  I intend to mount the bed camera facing up on top of the shell so I can see the cargo on the thule rack attached to the shell, so it will be a rack cam instead of a bed cam.

  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...
Posted (edited)

I have looked everywhere.  I think this will be like the trailer cameras.  There is one brand that will work, no others.  I think the suggestion to use a snap on mirror with another camera will be the most reasonable in cost and least disruptive to the truck  The trailer camera is almost $500.  Here is one that is a backup camera - i don't think a fisheye will work for a rearview mirror image.  https://www.actiontrucks.com/product-detail/RVS-915-04/jason-cap-third-brake-light-rear-view-camera  

Edited by Dave's Place
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I would really like to know how this came out? I just purchased a 2020 3500hd and am having an ARE cap installed next week, I also happen to own a fiberglass repair shop so I could mock up my own camera enclosure not that is the best use of my time if something is already out there. 

 

Thanks 

Posted
On 12/23/2020 at 5:45 PM, fiberglass charlie said:

I would really like to know how this came out? I just purchased a 2020 3500hd and am having an ARE cap installed next week, I also happen to own a fiberglass repair shop so I could mock up my own camera enclosure not that is the best use of my time if something is already out there. 

 

Thanks 

You aughta mock up an entirely new topper design. Mamy of these toppers are so genaric or dated looking.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...