Jump to content

Problems w Gamboa mod for off road light switch

Crankycolnago
 Share

Recommended Posts

Crankycolnago Enthusiast

Crankycolnago

Posted
Posted

I am using Gamboa harness , followed video and harness tabs instructions double checked all my wiring in and outside . But the light switch does not seem to be triggering the relay, I watched the video and he says put the trigger wire in to #86 on relay but the diagram he has on the vid and the videos showed him putting the trigger wire in to #85 I’ve tried both and there is no juice going to the lights , I have power from main wire to relay , my ground is good and the lights work if I put power to them. The oem switch was bought new and it activated the Icon on the dash . 

anyone had this issue any suggestions ?? 
 

 

VanguardK2 Enthusiast

VanguardK2

Posted
Posted
I am using Gamboa harness , followed video and harness tabs instructions double checked all my wiring in and outside . But the light switch does not seem to be triggering the relay, I watched the video and he says put the trigger wire in to #86 on relay but the diagram he has on the vid and the videos showed him putting the trigger wire in to #85 I’ve tried both and there is no juice going to the lights , I have power from main wire to relay , my ground is good and the lights work if I put power to them. The oem switch was bought new and it activated the Icon on the dash . 

anyone had this issue any suggestions ?? 
 
 
If you havent already PM'd him, I'd get on that. Hes a stand up guy so I'm sure he'll do everything he can to fix it or help out.
@pgamboa

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Crankycolnago Enthusiast

Crankycolnago

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 minutes ago, VanguardK2 said:

If you havent already PM'd him, I'd get on that. Hes a stand up guy so I'm sure he'll do everything he can to fix it or help out.
@pgamboa

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
 

Yea , not bashing him just saying that im using his harness, sent him a message earlier today so well see when he replies, maube he can walk me thru it. 

dieselfan1 Senior Enthusiast

dieselfan1

Posted
Posted

This would have been better handled by a PM
Don't sweat it he will get you through this.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

I have no issue if someone reports an issue with product. Feedback (both positive and negative) is important. It provides me the ability to continue to enhance the product/service.

What year is the truck?

In the video that Tinkering Fox released on this upgrade, he was the brains on this upgrade and performed the upgrade on his personal truck. His truck is a 2015 truck. I tested it on my 2016 truck.

After reading the documentation on this upgrade, it was disclosed that 2014 and some 2015 trucks may not have their BCM programmed for this feature.

So if your truck is 2014-2015, there is that possibility. If you’re 2016, it should work. There has been 1-2 trucks (2016+) that have reported it not work. We are not sure why for those.

I’ve got on the back burner, a solution for these trucks in that year range with that issue.

The issue - with the Pandemic going on, the demand for popular upgrades have increased my lead times to get products built/shipped. So I’ve been very busy cranking out orders.

Hope this helps and look forward to hearing from
You.

I’ll respond as I am able to.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

TinkeringFox Enthusiast

TinkeringFox

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi there. I actually just installed a new version of this mod yesterday that activated the light bar when two conditions are met.

#1, the ORL function is triggered 

#2, the high beams are triggered 

 

The problem you are having is certainly going to be downstream from the yellow output wire. 
You stated that the icon on the ORL switch illuminated when the ORL function is active. The button icon is fed by positive power coming back up to it from the BCM. The other branch of that positive power goes out under the hood to the aftermarket light bar harness. What is then required is for you to intercept the positive trigger wire going into your aftermarket relay. 

This is assuming that your aftermarket harness uses a positive signal to trigger the relay. 
Here’s how it should look....

Terminal 30=fused battery Positive + power

Terminal 87=Output positive + power to light bar

Terminal 86=Negative Trigger - Ground to relay & possibly bridged/spliced out to light bar.

Terminal 85=Positive Trigger input to relay from Yellow ORL harness wire.

 

#85 & #86 are both triggers for the relay and can be interchanged. The relay is an electromagnet switch requiring a positive and a negative input to flip the switch connecting terminal 30 (Battery) to 87 (Light Bar). It really matters not which way you hook up these two terminals as long as you have both a positive and a negative. 
 

The bottom line is that you need to check power and ground at terminals 85 & 86. Power being from the yellow ORL harness. You should feel and hear the relay click when triggered. Next check positive input and output power to 30 and out from 87. Next check to see if the light bar is properly grounded. 
 

I hope this helps.

 

New video and high beam upgrade coming soon. 
 

Edit...I mis-read and thought the button icon was illuminated. If your dash light is illuminating that’s great! Your truck has the programming! Verify that the yellow wire is receiving a positive signal when active. If not you may have a poor connection between the BCM and the Yellow wire. This could be due to a loose terminal, a terminal not fully inserted, a terminal inserted into a neighboring cavity (I’ve done that) or a few other things. Does the button icon illuminate?

Edited by TinkeringFox
Crankycolnago Enthusiast

Crankycolnago

Posted
  • Author
Posted
10 hours ago, pgamboa said:

I have no issue if someone reports an issue with product. Feedback (both positive and negative) is important. It provides me the ability to continue to enhance the product/service.

What year is the truck?

In the video that Tinkering Fox released on this upgrade, he was the brains on this upgrade and performed the upgrade on his personal truck. His truck is a 2015 truck. I tested it on my 2016 truck.

After reading the documentation on this upgrade, it was disclosed that 2014 and some 2015 trucks may not have their BCM programmed for this feature.

So if your truck is 2014-2015, there is that possibility. If you’re 2016, it should work. There has been 1-2 trucks (2016+) that have reported it not work. We are not sure why for those.

I’ve got on the back burner, a solution for these trucks in that year range with that issue.

The issue - with the Pandemic going on, the demand for popular upgrades have increased my lead times to get products built/shipped. So I’ve been very busy cranking out orders.

Hope this helps and look forward to hearing from
You.

I’ll respond as I am able to.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Phil Thanks for the quick reply, the truck is a 2016 . 

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted
Hey Phil Thanks for the quick reply, the truck is a 2016 . 

Tinkering Fox provided some great info on the different types of light bar harnesses and how they are configured.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Crankycolnago Enthusiast

Crankycolnago

Posted
  • Author
Posted
9 hours ago, TinkeringFox said:

Hi there. I actually just installed a new version of this mod yesterday that activated the light bar when two conditions are met.

#1, the ORL function is triggered 

#2, the high beams are triggered 

 

The problem you are having is certainly going to be downstream from the yellow output wire. 
You stated that the icon on the ORL switch illuminated when the ORL function is active. The button icon is fed by positive power coming back up to it from the BCM. The other branch of that positive power goes out under the hood to the aftermarket light bar harness. What is then required is for you to intercept the positive trigger wire going into your aftermarket relay. 

This is assuming that your aftermarket harness uses a positive signal to trigger the relay. 
Here’s how it should look....

Terminal 30=fused battery Positive + power

Terminal 87=Output positive + power to light bar

 

Terminal 86=Negative Trigger - Ground to relay & possibly bridged/spliced out to light bar.

Terminal 85=Positive Trigger input to relay from Yellow ORL harness wire.

 

#85 & #86 are both triggers for the relay and can be interchanged. The relay is an electromagnet switch requiring a positive and a negative input to flip the switch connecting terminal 30 (Battery) to 87 (Light Bar). It really matters not which way you hook up these two terminals as long as you have both a positive and a negative. 
 

The bottom line is that you need to check power and ground at terminals 85 & 86. Power being from the yellow ORL harness. You should feel and hear the relay click when triggered. Next check positive input and output power to 30 and out from 87. Next check to see if the light bar is properly grounded. 
 

I hope this helps.

 

New video and high beam upgrade coming soon. 
 

Edit...I mis-read and thought the button icon was illuminated. If your dash light is illuminating that’s great! Your truck has the programming! Verify that the yellow wire is receiving a positive signal when active. If not you may have a poor connection between the BCM and the Yellow wire. This could be due to a loose terminal, a terminal not fully inserted, a terminal inserted into a neighboring cavity (I’ve done that) or a few other things. Does the button icon illuminate?

I have a dash icon light, the switch itself does not illuminate , I tested the yellow wire that goes to the engine bay and it has no power . So then I need to add a wire to the relay prong labeled 87a ? 
 

currently have as follows 

 

30 - 12 v battery power w fuse 

85 - yellow trigger wire

86 - ground for relay and light 

87 - power to light 

 

i ran a power wire from battery to light to test its ground and it works .

 

so it seems that the problem is the switch trigger wire.

 

thanks for the help 

TinkeringFox Enthusiast

TinkeringFox

Posted
Posted

Yes, it seems that the yellow wire is the issue. You should double check the connection at the BCM to be sure that everything is correct. Correct cavity, proper depth, good (tight) connection.

  • 1 year later...
JohnnyLane Enthusiast

JohnnyLane

Posted
Posted
On 4/17/2020 at 11:40 PM, TinkeringFox said:

Hi there. I actually just installed a new version of this mod yesterday that activated the light bar when two conditions are met.

#1, the ORL function is triggered 

#2, the high beams are triggered 

 

The problem you are having is certainly going to be downstream from the yellow output wire. 
You stated that the icon on the ORL switch illuminated when the ORL function is active. The button icon is fed by positive power coming back up to it from the BCM. The other branch of that positive power goes out under the hood to the aftermarket light bar harness. What is then required is for you to intercept the positive trigger wire going into your aftermarket relay. 

This is assuming that your aftermarket harness uses a positive signal to trigger the relay. 
Here’s how it should look....

Terminal 30=fused battery Positive + power

Terminal 87=Output positive + power to light bar

Terminal 86=Negative Trigger - Ground to relay & possibly bridged/spliced out to light bar.

Terminal 85=Positive Trigger input to relay from Yellow ORL harness wire.

 

#85 & #86 are both triggers for the relay and can be interchanged. The relay is an electromagnet switch requiring a positive and a negative input to flip the switch connecting terminal 30 (Battery) to 87 (Light Bar). It really matters not which way you hook up these two terminals as long as you have both a positive and a negative. 
 

The bottom line is that you need to check power and ground at terminals 85 & 86. Power being from the yellow ORL harness. You should feel and hear the relay click when triggered. Next check positive input and output power to 30 and out from 87. Next check to see if the light bar is properly grounded. 
 

I hope this helps.

 

New video and high beam upgrade coming soon. 
 

Edit...I mis-read and thought the button icon was illuminated. If your dash light is illuminating that’s great! Your truck has the programming! Verify that the yellow wire is receiving a positive signal when active. If not you may have a poor connection between the BCM and the Yellow wire. This could be due to a loose terminal, a terminal not fully inserted, a terminal inserted into a neighboring cavity (I’ve done that) or a few other things. Does the button icon illuminate?

Just wanted to follow up with you TinkeringFox regarding how you went about this new mod as i am looking to do the same on my '18. I realize there are a few feasible ways of achieving this but appreciate your insight. Was this achieved at the bcm/switch or by simple hardwiring w/ diode?

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 420 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...