New highly functional head units coming out

[Scott Killman]

1 hour ago, SWOYER said:

That 2000 price tag was too much for me on the i209. I was able to put a package together with Sonic Electronix that brought the 8600 down to 1000. The fact that they can be adjusted in every direction at install, I figure i'll be able to center it up to look as factory as possible. The i209 is a nice setup though, its essentially the same thing just recessed a little more. The only thing I hate is the clear acrylic buttons Alpine insists on using, but just personal preference. 

 

I also decided to order a Audiocontrol ACM-2.300 just to push the rear coaxials and I'll bridge the JL rd900/5 just to run the 3 ways up front. I wasn't thinking about the power split as closely as I should have when picking out the amp.

 

Which stealthbox did you get?

Yeah I went back and forth on the i209 for over a week. One minute I was going to upgrade the HMI/radio then I decided to go aftermarket because I was going to replace the speakers and run amps.  But I didn’t like any of the dash kits. Didn’t look enough like the stock setup. Most of the dash kits looked like an afterthought. 
 

I found the i209 for $1849, no tax and free shipping from onlinecarstereo.com which is close to $300 cheaper than crutchfield. 
 

This is the stealthbox I purchased.
 

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13694647/JL-Audio-Stealthbox-Jet-Black.html

 

Again, another expensive investment but I like the look of the box and the fact that I can mount both amps in the boxes recess. I had considered building a box but didn’t want to hassle with it. 
 

Did you have to cut the dash to fit that Pioneer headunit?  That was another reason why I liked the i209. If I ever did sell this truck I’d go with a slightly newer model and could still use the equipment. 

[SWOYER]

34 minutes ago, Scott Killman said:

Yeah I went back and forth on the i209 for over a week. One minute I was going to upgrade the HMI/radio then I decided to go aftermarket because I was going to replace the speakers and run amps.  But I didn’t like any of the dash kits. Didn’t look enough like the stock setup. Most of the dash kits looked like an afterthought. 
 

I found the i209 for $1849, no tax and free shipping from onlinecarstereo.com which is close to $300 cheaper than crutchfield. 
 

This is the stealthbox I purchased.
 

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13694647/JL-Audio-Stealthbox-Jet-Black.html

 

Again, another expensive investment but I like the look of the box and the fact that I can mount both amps in the boxes recess. I had considered building a box but didn’t want to hassle with it. 
 

Did you have to cut the dash to fit that Pioneer headunit?  That was another reason why I liked the i209. If I ever did sell this truck I’d go with a slightly newer model and could still use the equipment. 

Ahh ok you have the crew cab. I have a double cab,  so the twins under the rear seat weren't an attractive option for me because they don't have the cutout for an amp and they were about twice the price. I think the one tw1 will be plenty loud for me under the console, i'm more interested in sound quality than volume. I'm jealous that the box you bought comes with tw3's though, they're supposed to be really loud and good sound quality. The one for the console only has the air volume for a tw1. 

 

Well, I haven't installed it yet because they aren't shipping until mid may. I am prepared to cut it if necessary it didn't seem to be that big of an issue. It's a single din unit, so it's possible that it could be installed without cutting by adjusting the location, i'd have to look once I get the metra panel and see where the two dins fall. I intend to keep the truck until it dies so I'm not worried about ever going back to stock, have too much invested in it to get a new one.

 

They do have an alternative 9" option where the screen installs into a double din and the "computer" is on a cord so you could probably tuck that into the void. They call it a "modular" unit. 

 

 

 

[Scott Killman]

13 hours ago, SWOYER said:

Ahh ok you have the crew cab. I have a double cab,  so the twins under the rear seat weren't an attractive option for me because they don't have the cutout for an amp and they were about twice the price. I think the one tw1 will be plenty loud for me under the console, i'm more interested in sound quality than volume. I'm jealous that the box you bought comes with tw3's though, they're supposed to be really loud and good sound quality. The one for the console only has the air volume for a tw1. 

 

Well, I haven't installed it yet because they aren't shipping until mid may. I am prepared to cut it if necessary it didn't seem to be that big of an issue. It's a single din unit, so it's possible that it could be installed without cutting by adjusting the location, i'd have to look once I get the metra panel and see where the two dins fall. I intend to keep the truck until it dies so I'm not worried about ever going back to stock, have too much invested in it to get a new one.

 

They do have an alternative 9" option where the screen installs into a double din and the "computer" is on a cord so you could probably tuck that into the void. They call it a "modular" unit. 

 

 

I had an 05 crew cab and when I upgraded to the 2015 I knew I couldn't go back to a double cab.  I like the extra space.  My 05 had a sub under the console and man did it hit hard.  It was like that when I bought the truck so I couldn't tell you what box or brand of sub because I never took the console out.  It was all aftermarket equipment.  I'm going for sound quality in this one.  I will eventually sound dampen the doors, back wall and maybe the floor but right now I'll just add the speakers and other gear.  

 

I sure hope the sound quality of that stealthbox is on par with the price.  

 

That 9" modular unit is nice and a heck of a lot cheaper too. The Metra dash kit is pretty nice. Better than some of the others I've seen.  

[cmysstailights]

I installed a avic8400. Had to cut the dash, no biggy. I took apart the stock bezel and made it work. No cutting.

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[truckguy82]

One big issue with aftermarket that I absolutely hate hate hate, is processing lag. I mean oem units boot up in seconds and have very little input lag

 

Considering the market for mobile processing, and considering they are not concerned about power usage like a mobile phone, absolutely bonkers to me that a $1500 headunit would have the processing power of a 10 year old iphone 3g.

 

do these newer units have this issue?

Edited June 8, 2020 by truckguy82

[cmysstailights]

One big issue with aftermarket that I absolutely hate hate hate, is processing lag. I mean oem units boot up in seconds and have very little input lag
 
Considering the market for mobile processing, and considering they are not concerned about power usage like a mobile phone, absolutely bonkers to me that a $1500 headunit would have the processing power of a 10 year old iphone 3g.
 
do these newer units have this issue?

Mine boots up around the same time as the stock unit did. Maybe a tic faster

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[truckguy82]

1 hour ago, cmysstailights said:

Mine boots up around the same time as the stock unit did. Maybe a tic faster

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

Well not just boot time, but primarily lag when using. Any button lag? Like changing sources or switching from on and off rear camera.

 

My ‘14 is a little slower than I like, but acceptable. The aftermarket ones I’ve used were way worse. 

[SWOYER]

On 5/2/2020 at 10:32 PM, Scott Killman said:

Did you have to cut the dash to fit that Pioneer headunit?  

I finally got in there to see what had to be done, I'm sorry I've been so busy with work that the trucks been sitting in pieces for over a month. A formal write up of the overall upgrades will be coming. 

 

The simple answer is yes, the dash had to be cut, even with a single din unit as the DMH-8600NET. However, the amount that needed to be cut was significantly less than a full two din radio. I used the included storage pocket that required some light trimming on the upper piece  which is ultimately more difficult and bigger to trim. The two lower pieces were pretty easy to cut and snap out. Also, since 75% of the top shelf was retained it made a nice little shelf for the Onstar unit, instead of squeezing it into the bottom as Meastro recommends. I put some foam around it to keep it from rattling but in general it was a great fit. If you don't use the pocket I think you only needed to trim the bottom two tabs. 

 

I used a mini torch and a razor blade, heated the blade to red hot and it cuts right into the plastic cleanly. I used a Milwaukee dremel tool with a cutoff wheel where possible, and to make several progress cuts to make it easier as I went further towards the firewall. I can't stress this enough, if you decide to use a dremel, BE CAREFUL cutting past the walls on the left and right sides as there are wires behind it and if you go too far you're gonna have a real bad day. I was somewhat reckless since I didn't know they were back there, but I did have an "oh sh*t" moment when i was able to feel them. 

 

Any of the shallow chassis units should fit without cutting such as the Alpine. Pioneer makes one also. Or if you don't use the double din pocket with a single din it should slide in there tightly)

[SWOYER]

I finally got in there to see what had to be done, I'm sorry I've been so busy with work that the trucks been sitting in pieces for over a month. A formal write up of the overall upgrades will be coming. 
 
The simple answer is yes, the dash had to be cut, even with a single din unit as the DMH-8600NET. However, the amount that needed to be cut was significantly less than a full two din radio. I used the included storage pocket that required some light trimming on the upper piece  which is ultimately more difficult and bigger to trim. The two lower pieces were pretty easy to cut and snap out. Also, since 75% of the top shelf was retained it made a nice little shelf for the Onstar unit, instead of squeezing it into the bottom as Meastro recommends. I put some foam around it to keep it from rattling but in general it was a great fit. If you don't use the pocket I think you only needed to trim the bottom two tabs. 
 
I used a mini torch and a razor blade, heated the blade to red hot and it cuts right into the plastic cleanly. I used a Milwaukee dremel tool with a cutoff wheel where possible, and to make several progress cuts to make it easier as I went further towards the firewall. I can't stress this enough, if you decide to use a dremel, BE CAREFUL cutting past the walls on the left and right sides as there are wires behind it and if you go too far you're gonna have a real bad day. I was somewhat reckless since I didn't know they were back there, but I did have an "oh sh*t" moment when i was able to feel them. 
 
Any of the shallow chassis units should fit without cutting such as the Alpine. Pioneer makes one also. Or if you don't use the double din pocket with a single din it should slide in there tightly)

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[SWOYER]

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[cmysstailights]

Well not just boot time, but primarily lag when using. Any button lag? Like changing sources or switching from on and off rear camera.
 
My ‘14 is a little slower than I like, but acceptable. The aftermarket ones I’ve used were way worse. 

No lag when up and running. Rear entertainment works great even when i am mirroring my phone wirelessly

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[truckguy82]

1 hour ago, cmysstailights said:

No lag when up and running. Rear entertainment works great even when i am mirroring my phone wirelessly

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Good to know. I assume you installed aftermarket screens?

 

any integration issues?

such as but not limited to...

hvac controls

hvac remote start

steering wheel controls

voice control

i’d assume hvac controls moved to touch screen. I’ve been in cars where everything is controlled by touch screen and it makes me wanting buttons. I suppose if its done well it has potential to not be all that bad. How is it?

thanks!

[cmysstailights]

Good to know. I assume you installed aftermarket screens?
 
any integration issues?
such as but not limited to...
hvac controls
hvac remote start
steering wheel controls
voice control

i’d assume hvac controls moved to touch screen. I’ve been in cars where everything is controlled by touch screen and it makes me wanting buttons. I suppose if its done well it has potential to not be all that bad. How is it?

thanks!

Retained everything

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[cmysstailights]

Good to know. I assume you installed aftermarket screens?
 
any integration issues?
such as but not limited to...
hvac controls
hvac remote start
steering wheel controls
voice control

i’d assume hvac controls moved to touch screen. I’ve been in cars where everything is controlled by touch screen and it makes me wanting buttons. I suppose if its done well it has potential to not be all that bad. How is it?

thanks!

My write up. https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?url=https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/233713-radio-upgrade-with-factory-bose/&share_tid=233713&share_fid=33003&share_type=t&link_source=app

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[SWOYER]

Good to know. I assume you installed aftermarket screens?
 
any integration issues?
such as but not limited to...
hvac controls
hvac remote start
steering wheel controls
voice control

i’d assume hvac controls moved to touch screen. I’ve been in cars where everything is controlled by touch screen and it makes me wanting buttons. I suppose if its done well it has potential to not be all that bad. How is it?

thanks!

To keep all that stuff you have to put in a meastro or pac unit. I chose the meastro. With the appropriate harness, gm3, it ties into all the factory functions. The only thing I don’t like is the obd2 plug because I’m already using that for my power steps but they do sell y adapters.

But everything else is appropriately wired to “T” into existing wiring to grab the signal or a direct plug in.

The older units are verry laggy and slow but some of these newer units are quite snappy. I suggest trying to get a capacitive touch screen like the pioneer or others, they use a screen much like modern day cell phones.


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