Jump to content

2016 Silverado 1500 Driveshaft Issues?

David Wallace
 Share

Recommended Posts

David Wallace Enthusiast

David Wallace

Posted
Posted

Hello,

 

I recently posted about an issue I was having regarding a vibration/rumble noise in the thread below.

 

 

I took the truck to a driveshaft shop and they said it was all out of whack... balanced it and it seems to be about 90% better but it's still vibrating and making the noise but now at around 55-63mph, before it was any speed from about 60mphs on up. Took a trip up North this past weekend as well and it also seemed to do it while accelerating or going up hill. I can feel the vibration in the floor/pedal.

 

Since the balance did seem to really help the problem but not fix it 100% what would you suggest I do next?

 

 

 

 

  • 1 year later...
DAT2016 New Member

DAT2016

Posted
Posted

I have a 2016 Silverado Duramax Longbed with 310,000 miles. I started getting a hum from the right rear between 35-40 mph while accelerating and decelerating. We did find a bad gear in the rear differential, and metal in the transfer case. These were replaced with new GM parts. As a precaution we replaced the u-joints and had the drive shaft re-balanced. 
   We still had the noise! 
   We then contacted GM engineering and they had the mechanic install a 6 point vibration tester and a 6 point microphone system. Still cannot locate the problem!

    GM is sending an engineer to come to try to solve the problem! 
    Does anyone have an answer to the problem!

    In my research online I saw an answer to someone else’s driveline noise problem, which I believe came from GM, which said they not know how to fix the problem and to just drive it til something breaks. Unfortunately I lost the article. If someone here knows the article, I wish they could email it to me [email protected]

 

Thanks,

DAT2016

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      Joke Thread

      By Chuck FB · Posted

    • txab
      Gas Prices

      By txab · Posted

      $3.59  
    • needafix
      2019+ Brake failure, it's complicated

      By needafix · Posted

      I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Donstar
      Navigating senior years.

      By Donstar · Posted

      Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!
    • Another JR
      Trailer TPS Sensor Question Rim Size

      By Another JR · Posted

      Grommets with the right cement should be perfectly fine. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...