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31 minutes ago, Racerx944 said:

I didn't end up with his truck.  I read his post and how he fixed his problem which he indicated was "common" for our trucks.

 

The contactors are likely not difficult to replace other than lowering the battery pack and opening the pack without shocking yourself.  If I had to replace mine, I would do it myself.

 

The document you provided about the A123 battery pack shows an Electrical Distribution Module (EDM) and this is what a contactor looks like (round with posts on top).

 

 

image.png

Yes and it also shows that contactor bundle as well. I think it's a great tool to visualize how everything in the pack is put together. 

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19 minutes ago, Slimsalabim said:

Yes and it also shows that contactor bundle as well. I think it's a great tool to visualize how everything in the pack is put together. 

How much did they quote you on replacing the contactor and have you contemplated doing it yourself?

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2 minutes ago, Racerx944 said:

How much did they quote you on replacing the contactor and have you contemplated doing it yourself?

I'm waiting on the quote from them as well as the parts quote. I would absolutely change it myself, but pulling the battery safely at my house isn't going to happen. I'm also dealing with my '32 needing to get fixed after the suicide door flew open on me. 20220616_203902.thumb.jpg.a29aca2bea71116c88caba10416593aa.jpg

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25 minutes ago, Slimsalabim said:

 

 

Just got the quote a moment ago. Let's see if the attachment works. I've been having trouble all of a sudden. 

 

Slim 

Pretty strange they charged you for a contactor and EDM.  I figure that the contactor would be in the EDM.

 

Now you just have to get a quote for installation.

 

Suggestion is to take personal info out of the invoice.  Maybe I am just more paranoid.

Edited by Racerx944
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9 minutes ago, Racerx944 said:

Pretty strange they charged you for a contactor and EDM.  I figure that the contactor would be in the EDM.

 

Now you just have to get a quote for installation.

 

Suggestion is to take personal info out of the invoice.  Maybe I am just more paranoid.

Good catch. Updated it. They probably know I'm not using them to fix it so they bypassed that quote. 

 

Slim 

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1 hour ago, Slimsalabim said:

Good catch. Updated it. They probably know I'm not using them to fix it so they bypassed that quote. 

 

Slim 

 

I hope the dealer will give you a good price though I would imagine it won't be cheap since not many people want to work with HV traction batteries.

 

I have to charge the battery in the van somehow.  It is one of the very early prototype of their prototype fleet.  It has an iPad in the dash and only has 2400 miles with original tires from 2013.  If I can't figure out how to get it to run, I will probably convert it to gas and take the EV parts to use in another conversion to all electric using only batteries without an ICE.

 

If I have to take apart the battery pack, I will post pix.

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IMG_20220814_070409.jpg

IMG_20220814_070426.jpg

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51 minutes ago, Christian Bracamonte said:

Got my quote too,  ow waiting for Tammy to answer back… 

also anyone can recommend a home charger?

E9B9FD26-6569-4BB0-86B9-4823A5553A63.jpeg

I jumped on that deal right away.  Look around for a replacement.  It will cost you twice the amount.  Even if you have the motor rewound, I was quoted $395 for the rebuild on that pump and I doubt it will be the same as a new one.

 

I used the EVSE from a 2016-2019 Chevrolet Volt.  The EVSE will accept both 120V input or 240V input to charge at level 2 so I made an extension cord that puts out 240V with a 120V female receptacle into the Volt EVSE to charge it at level 2 (I believe @ 3.3KW).

 

Everything at my house is powered by solar panels and Li Ion battery including the car charging.

Edited by Racerx944
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1 minute ago, Racerx944 said:

 

I hope the dealer will give you a good price though I would imagine it won't be cheap since not many people want to work with HV traction batteries.

 

I have to charge the battery in the van somehow.  It is one of the very early prototype of their prototype fleet.  It has an iPad in the dash and only has 2400 miles with original tires from 2013.  If I can't figure out how to get it to run, I will probably convert it to gas and take the EV parts to use in another conversion to all electric using only batteries without an ICE.

 

If I have to take apart the battery pack, I will post pix.

6017-1.jpg

IMG_20220814_070404.jpg

IMG_20220814_070409.jpg

IMG_20220814_070426.jpg

That screen is crazy. I put an aftermarket in mine, but I it didn't monitor any battery stuff. 

 

Have you checked this place for batteries?

 

https://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/used-a123-pouch-modules.html

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13 minutes ago, Slimsalabim said:

That screen is crazy. I put an aftermarket in mine, but I it didn't monitor any battery stuff. 

 

Have you checked this place for batteries?

 

https://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/used-a123-pouch-modules.html

That display is original from VIA Motors.  Same with the iPad.

 

I bought out the solar inventory out of one of the biggest solar installers in San Diego when they went bankrupt so I am sitting on about 150KWH worth of used LG Chem RESU batteries.  I am planning to experiment with an external battery pack that is charged separate from the truck so I don't have to mess with the vehicle electronics.  I want to "tap" into the DC input to the DC/AC inverter/charger , which I believe powers the motor controller downstream.

 

If I can't find a 112S BMS (doubtful), I am just going to balance the pack manually initially and use it without a BMS.  I figure the motor controller will limit how much power it pulls from the battery pack.

 

I will have to use LED voltage display on each of the 7S battery blocks (16 blocks of 7S each) to get 396V to make sure the battery doesn't go out of balance.

Edited by Racerx944
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