Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

2017 Chevy 2500 with duramax diesel. 
my stock air box has given up. The over size screws I put in it long ago are stripping out and the hose to the TB is cracked. 
 

chevy is supposed to be pricing me a new one. Parts store couldn’t find me a replacement, but can get a K&N for $400. I will probably do what is cheapest. Will the K&N go right in and not cause codes? 

Posted

My previous 6.0 in an older generation truck gave me codes at high RPM with the K & N filter and cold air intake even though they promise it will not.

 

Put the stock airbox back, no more codes in the same predictable situations (towing uphill) that K & N always gave me codes on.

 

I will be looking for a cold air intake for the 2017 truck but will only use a dry filter.

 

I'll probably go with AFE GM Silverado HD/Sierra HD 16-17 V8-6.0L w/ Mechanical Fan

Part Number AFE54-74108

Once I have an extra $450 I don't want that is.

Blackbear tested it on I believe a stock truck and has dyno sheet to prove some modest HP increase across the band, +20HP at the top RPMs where my engine will rarely be but still seems like a better option to me than the rest.

 

Oops, forgot you were talking about dmax not gasser.

 

Sent from the demons in my head

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

Lots of threads on the other diesel forums about earlier version dmax trucks having 'code' issues with K&N. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
2017 Chevy 2500 with duramax diesel. 

my stock air box has given up. The over size screws I put in it long ago are stripping out and the hose to the TB is cracked. 

 

chevy is supposed to be pricing me a new one. Parts store couldn’t find me a replacement, but can get a K&N for $400. I will probably do what is cheapest. Will the K&N go right in and not cause codes? 

I have a 15 and purchased an AFE intake, no codes thrown. Also from what I searched I'd go with a "Dry filter" over oiled. Haven't had any issues, I also purchased a pre-filter wrap for dirty off-roading/sand dunes. It came out to roughly 380$ish.

 

Also try calling them, they might give you 20% off, they have been running specials this last month or so. It looks like there's two or three different intake models you can pick from.

 

The high end with the most HP gain (15HP gain) is $472.50 Momentum(Dry S Filter).

 

The lower series is $367.50 (4HP gain) Quantum Pro Dry S.

  • 5 weeks later...
Posted

I have been looking at the Volant intake with the power core filter. 
 

Looking at my air intake temps, which is normally 20* higher than ambient temp according to my Edge CTS3. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...