Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I searched and couldn’t find any info so I’m sorry if it’s been covered before. Magnaflow p/n 19476 for 19+ trucks fit our trucks.

536D3A02-4662-4D04-B975-98236C47C605.jpeg

Edited by Gonzo406
Typo
Posted

Nice set up. Not sure how they justify $180 for a 2 foot pipe and some $10 clamps though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
2 hours ago, langston1726 said:

Nice set up. Not sure how they justify $180 for a 2 foot pipe and some $10 clamps though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow! That's a big price for convenience. Muffler shop charged me $50 to do mine lol

Posted
Wow! That's a big price for convenience. Muffler shop charged me $50 to do mine lol

Right. I think if these were priced closer to $80-100, they would be flying off the shelf.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
5 hours ago, langston1726 said:

Nice set up. Not sure how they justify $180 for a 2 foot pipe and some $10 clamps though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wanted mandrel bends and ss piping. I called around and was unable to find a shop in my area with a mandrel bender. The smooth bends are much more pleasing to look without a rusty bead of mild steel welds. Very few people, other than me, will ever take a look underneath my truck but I’m particular about my vehicles. $180 is more than I would have liked to pay for pipe and clamps. I’ll write it off as business expense.

Posted
I wanted mandrel bends and ss piping. I called around and was unable to find a shop in my area with a mandrel bender. The smooth bends are much more pleasing to look without a rusty bead of mild steel welds. Very few people, other than me, will ever take a look underneath my truck but I’m particular about my vehicles. $180 is more than I would have liked to pay for pipe and clamps. I’ll write it off as business expense.

I hear ya man. This is coming from a guy that’s got $400 worth of Borla mufflers in place of the stock muffler.

161837846b282b4ff8b284e821b054a9.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
1 hour ago, langston1726 said:

I hear ya man. This is coming from a guy that’s got $400 worth of Borla mufflers in place of the stock muffler.

161837846b282b4ff8b284e821b054a9.jpg

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

F*****g love it. Quality ss clamps/cans>steel filler/painted mild steel muffs. Everything else equal, I’d gladly pay $400 more for a used truck with borla set up like yours over your run of the mill flowmaster meineke/midas special

  • Like 1
Posted
I hear ya man. This is coming from a guy that’s got $400 worth of Borla mufflers in place of the stock muffler.
161837846b282b4ff8b284e821b054a9.jpg
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Why the two mufflers? I have just the Borla ATAK muffler after my catalytic converter.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Posted
Why the two mufflers? I have just the Borla ATAK muffler after my catalytic converter. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

 

I’m running Texas Speed longtubes and this is my daily driver. This is about the 6 or 7th iteration to find the sound I was after. I really like the way the Atak sounds but needed something to tame the rasp down and take the edge of cold starts. The oval XR1 really helps with that but is still a straight thru design so it doesn’t take away the tone. This set up is very mild when I stay out of it but really opens up above 3000 rpm.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
6 hours ago, langston1726 said:

I’m running Texas Speed longtubes and this is my daily driver. This is about the 6 or 7th iteration to find the sound I was after. I really like the way the Atak sounds but needed something to tame the rasp down and take the edge of cold starts. The oval XR1 really helps with that but is still a straight thru design so it doesn’t take away the tone. This set up is very mild when I stay out of it but really opens up above 3000 rpm.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That makes sense, do you have a video clip of your exhaust? I'd like to hear your setup.

Posted
That makes sense, do you have a video clip of your exhaust? I'd like to hear your setup.

 

This is all I’ve got with the latest set up. All the in cab clips are with the windows down. It’s pretty quiet with windows up just normal cruising.

 https://youtu.be/dU86gfnMJaQ

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted
This is what all I’ve got with the latest set up. All the in cab clips are with the windows down. It’s pretty quiet with windows up just normal cruising.
 

 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You can really hear the difference with having headers when you get up in the RPMs. Here is a cold start video of mine. Stock manifolds, cats then Borla ATAK system.



Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Posted
You can really hear the difference with having headers when you get up in the RPMs. Here is a cold start video of mine. Stock manifolds, cats then Borla ATAK system.



Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yeah the headers make a big difference. Yours sounds really good. Do you still have all 3 cats? Did you happen to look inside the muffler before the install? They have pretty interesting design to get that sound.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
43 minutes ago, langston1726 said:


Yeah the headers make a big difference. Yours sounds really good. Do you still have all 3 cats? Did you happen to look inside the muffler before the install? They have pretty interesting design to get that sound.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I do have the 3 stock cats. Do you have them on your setup or did you do something different?

Posted
I do have the 3 stock cats. Do you have them on your setup or did you do something different?

I’ve got the TSP y-pipe with high flow cats
739090c4bb0366d1ffb5d86d208ec87b.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No doubt... But, as someone who doesn't pay for his services, but who has provided a few views/clicks on his Youtube platform, the data around the Mobil oil testing I think does have some value including to "freeloaders" like me.   A lot of what he's doing is likely showing the OE's work in their oil selection, something that many of us had kind of assumed was true all along, a good balance of both excellent protection and efficiency.
    • Lake Speed is drumming up business for his company just by being in the spot-light so he has a vested interest in stoking the 0W-20 fire.  IMO  
    • I knew when I bought my truck that it had off road hill decent or craw control or whatever they call it and rolled my eyes at that but it gets throw on with other options my truck has, I just never had a heads up if the highway speed regular cruise setting had anything to do with the brakes and that took me by surprise. If you've ever been to the top of Pikes Peak and watched those ahead of you on the way down with their brake lights on constantly, one can guess they are probably not gearing down or not enough anyway if their vehicle will allow and a good reason their is a brake check spot part way down where they use an infra red heat gun to check how hot ones brakes are front and rear.    Your right that once one gets out of the front range by Denver and I've not been on that stretch of 285 between Denver and Fairplay myself but I know its high and Fairplay at 10000 feet, Buena Vista at 8000, it drops a bit from there but then your going back up and over the 11000 pass and Durango is at 6500 . So yes your definitely right that 6500 and a lot higher is the theme of going anywhere out in that direction from Denver but hey, the down hill sections give fantastic fuel mileage !.    I don't even look at the fuel pumps for what premium costs here, since I live on a farm and up to this point get fuel delivered I am rarely in front of a fuel pump and when I am, I am often using card lock bulk fuel stations so it tells me what the price is AFTER I buy the fuel. Looking up on gas buddy and converting to US gallons but in Canadian dollars, regular on average of the prices listed was around 5.95 and premium is around 7.00 . That was one reason I did not go for the 6.2 half ton aside from its lack of carrying/towing if one was going by the rule of using premium fuel and until recently one could only buy regular farm gas if playing the few cents off game for farm dyed fuel for a "farm licensed pickup". But yes I hear you on the fuel price difference and like the diesel theme with it often being more expensive then gas it doesn't have quite the charm to it either as it once did although right now here for some reason the price of diesel has come down more so its now inline with the price of regular gas. 
    • I agree with this assessment. As you know I’m testing longevity with vehicles for the first time. I have a few vehicles I passed to kids and grandkids. We’re all past 100K miles some approaching 170K. I’m the only one doing 5k oil changes. The rest whatever the minder says. I’m the only one doing frequent transmission service. My odyssey the trip vehicle at 200K will be finished as a trip vehicle. I recently changed to high mileage oil, Valvoline. I can’t get past the fact that all manufacturers want to claim long service life. I just don’t make sense that they would go with low weight oil for mileage. While sacrificing longevity.
    • There's absolutely a mountain of profit in catering to the "I do my own research" crowd, people who are certain they know better. And I don't mean there isn't data to support that 0w40 produces less wear product than 0w20 in an engine like the 3.0 Duramax, that only feeds them the assurance they need. Again, my whole thing with oil selection is, sure, 0w40 or 0w30 produces less wear product. Are we talking the difference between the engine lasting only 100k versus 200k? Or are we talking more like, if the engine will already go 350k on a good 0w20 regimen recommended by the OE, is using 0w40 going to get us to 355k, assuming we can even get the rest of the truck to last that long, meanwhile sacrificing the first 5y, 100k in powertrain warranty. The answer isn't easy, there are tradeoffs.   I willfully use 0w20 Dexos D for this reason, knowing that a 0w40 will produce slightly less wear. I don't believe the delta in wear product is meaningful over the lifetime of the engine, and I place much more importance on driving style and overall feeding and care of the engine as a whole. It's the mentality that someone can abstain from alcohol their whole life which is an amazing boost to health by itself, theoretically. But if they're sedentary, that lifestyle choice will most likely kill them young despite their other, concerted efforts. Maybe someone doesn't drink AND they are the perfect picture of health and activity AND they use 0w40 AND they treat their engine perfectly. If living until 130 years is the goal, sure, do that. But it's going to be a really old truck falling apart around a good engine for that last 30 years, without a doubt.   I watched Demonworks' other video on the 100k+ 3.0 Duramax that had dealer 0w20 changes on what appears to be OLM-prescribed intervals (8-10k).   The QR codes are still present and readable on the main bearings. That's how little wear it has.   That's not proof that anyone else should stick to 0w20, but it's confirmation, for me, that 0w20 is perfectly acceptable to use in these engines.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...