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Posted

I am upgrading to a 5th wheel trailer. Truck never came with the 5th wheel prep. What do you recommend for a goose neck setup. Im gonna use the anderson ultimate. 15 silverado 2500

 

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Posted

I installed a Curt in my 2015 2500HD.  Go with a B&W or Curt.  Both are good.  While you're under there, install air bags with a remote.

Posted
I installed a Curt in my 2015 2500HD.  Go with a B&W or Curt.  Both are good.  While you're under there, install air bags with a remote.
I have airlift 5000 ultimate. Also did tune, looking into headers and exhaust and do a re tune.

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Posted
8 minutes ago, cmysstailights said:

I have airlift 5000 ultimate. Also did tune, looking into headers and exhaust and do a re tune.

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Coolio!  What size 5er are you looking at getting?  BTW, the gooseneck install is fairly easy if you are looking to DIY.

Posted

Put a deposit down on a 5th wheel 12k lb 41ft. Seller backed out of my bumper pull, so have to sell that first.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I have the Curt double lock gooseneck and the Andersen Ultimate. Install of the Curt was a bit of a PITA but doable on your back in the driveway and basic tools, though you will need a cutoff wheel to trim the muffler shield. Also, buy a good holes saw. 
 

Every setup is different. Originally, I had a Reese Revolution and the setup was perfect. I put in a morryde orbital, which is taller, and now it’s a bit nose high. My camper does not accommodate a standard bolt pattern pin box so my options are very limited. If I had a camper with a standard set of pin box wings I would be using a Reese Gooseneck pin box. 
 

Is that 12k weight dry or GVWR? If it’s 41’, there’s no way it’s 12k ready to camp. My 29’ HT  trailer I scaled at just under 11k this weekend with about 2,200 on the pin. My truck GVWR was just under 9,500.  There’s no way I would do a 14k trailer with the 6.0 if I plan to camp on a regular basis and I’m in flat Florida. 

Posted
I have the Curt double lock gooseneck and the Andersen Ultimate. Install of the Curt was a bit of a PITA but doable on your back in the driveway and basic tools, though you will need a cutoff wheel to trim the muffler shield. Also, buy a good holes saw. 
 
Every setup is different. Originally, I had a Reese Revolution and the setup was perfect. I put in a morryde orbital, which is taller, and now it’s a bit nose high. My camper does not accommodate a standard bolt pattern pin box so my options are very limited. If I had a camper with a standard set of pin box wings I would be using a Reese Gooseneck pin box. 
 
Is that 12k weight dry or GVWR? If it’s 41’, there’s no way it’s 12k ready to camp. My 29’ HT  trailer I scaled at just under 11k this weekend with about 2,200 on the pin. My truck GVWR was just under 9,500.  There’s no way I would do a 14k trailer with the 6.0 if I plan to camp on a regular basis and I’m in flat Florida. 
Thats dry she will prob be 13.5k loaded up. I only tow to seasonal spot then home at end of season.

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Posted (edited)

At 41’, I think you’ll be heavier than 13.5K. I would go by the GVWR on the trailer.  If they let you test tow before buying, do it. You will be close on payload.  The truck will pull it but it won’t be a lot of fun. At 11k in Florida on a hot day, there’s a lot of downshifting and revving and such. 
 

if the Reese gooseneck pin box will bolt up, give that serious consideration. At about $1,200, not too much more than the Andersen and cheaper than an Andersen plus cushioned pinbox combo. 
 

the Curt double lock is a great value. If you go Anderson or any hitch that adapts to a ball, you cannot use a functional pivoting pin box; you have to lock the turret in place. That’s only an issue if you have cap to window clearance problems.  I had to flip my Andersen ball receiver around to clear the pin box to tailgate but still get a tight turn. Not 90* but plenty. You can see the axles on my trailer shift out of line with each other once you hit about 60*...doing a full jackknife might rip them off. 

Edited by Shall36
Posted
At 41’, I think you’ll be heavier than 13.5K. I would go by the GVWR on the trailer.  If they let you test tow before buying, do it. You will be close on payload.  The truck will pull it but it won’t be a lot of fun. At 11k in Florida on a hot day, there’s a lot of downshifting and revving and such. 
 
if the Reese gooseneck pin box will bolt up, give that serious consideration. At about $1,200, not too much more than the Andersen and cheaper than an Andersen plus cushioned pinbox combo. 
 
the Curt double lock is a great value. If you go Anderson or any hitch that adapts to a ball, you cannot use a functional pivoting pin box; you have to lock the turret in place. That’s only an issue if you have cap to window clearance problems.  I had to flip my Andersen ball receiver around to clear the pin box to tailgate but still get a tight turn. Not 90* but plenty. You can see the axles on my trailer shift out of line with each other once you hit about 60*...doing a full jackknife might rip them off. 
I know i am gonna be close or over. For the 2 times i pull im ok with it. Cant upgrade truck right now. I got the curt dbl lock and 5th wheel.harness for 390 and andersen with the shackles for 650

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Posted

I have a friend who moves his 5th wheel every spring and fall for the past several years.  They live in the trailer full time and have a favorite summer and winter location.  He pays to have his trailer moved.  He and his wife prefer to drive nice cars and/or 1/2 tons and don't want to be tied down with a 1 ton truck for the other 363 days of the year.  Personally,  I'd love to have a 1 ton diesel dually as my daily driver to haul my Pomeranian X to the dog park but not everyone does! 

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