Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Goodyear Duratracs or Goodyear All Terrain Adventure.  Which ones do you recommend.  For mostly city and highway drive.  I like the looks for the AT tires.  I just to have All terrain Adventure in my previous truck '14 Sierra was a good tire .  I want to put 275-65-18.

 

Thanks,

Posted

I’ve never had experience with yours, but I have 265/6518s wrangler duratraks on my Sierra. That’s what came stock from the factor. 43k on them and I’ve had zero problems with them.
I did a trip to Duck NC with them and forgot to air down on the beach... still had zero problems. Even in loose sand.

Only thing is I should’ve kept up with rotating them a bit more. Front edges are a bit more worn than the rests at the moment. But like I said, that’s my own fault and I’m sure that’ll be the same on any aggressive corner/edge of a tire


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I like my Duratracs but they're notorious for low mileage. I'm all highway  (about 85%) and just rolled 55,000 miles and my tires are N-O-I-S-Y. I don't mind it much because I like the noise and feel of mud tires and now that the treads are wearing down, it starts to have that mud tire feel when at low speeds, high noise at highway speeds, almost like bad wheel bearing noise. My buddy runs Duratracs on his plow trucks and only gets about 45,000 miles out of them. I'm at 55,000 and am going to have to get a new set before the winter rolls around.

 

I think I'm switching to BFG KO2's this time around. However I have to see how that works with my wheel package insurance. My wheels and tires are covered for 8 years so I have to make sure I follow whatever their guidelines are for tires. If I can't switch brands hopefully I can go a little bigger to like a 275 or 285.

Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, xSHIFTxNASTYx said:

I like my Duratracs but they're notorious for low mileage. I'm all highway  (about 85%) and just rolled 55,000 miles and my tires are N-O-I-S-Y. I don't mind it much because I like the noise and feel of mud tires and now that the treads are wearing down, it starts to have that mud tire feel when at low speeds, high noise at highway speeds, almost like bad wheel bearing noise. My buddy runs Duratracs on his plow trucks and only gets about 45,000 miles out of them. I'm at 55,000 and am going to have to get a new set before the winter rolls around.

 

I think I'm switching to BFG KO2's this time around. However I have to see how that works with my wheel package insurance. My wheels and tires are covered for 8 years so I have to make sure I follow whatever their guidelines are for tires. If I can't switch brands hopefully I can go a little bigger to like a 275 or 285.

Thanks for your post.  I have some questions:

1.  How is the ride? I have Bilsteins 5100.  These tires are more stiff?

2. Your tires are the original OEM tires

3. How often do you rotate the tires?

4.  The noise is pretty bad.  I have a corsa sport exhaust maybe i can't hear the noise of the tires.

5. any experience driving in the snow with these tires?

 

Thank you

Edited by Darthmalo
Posted
This.  Get Woke, Go Broke.

I can’t tell if you’re trying to bash me or agreeing with me. But either way voting for joe and that hoe is no good. [emoji854]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted
On 9/11/2020 at 12:10 PM, Darthmalo said:

Thanks for your post.  I have some questions:

1.  How is the ride? I have Bilsteins 5100.  These tires are more stiff?

2. Your tires are the original OEM tires

3. How often do you rotate the tires?

4.  The noise is pretty bad.  I have a corsa sport exhaust maybe i can't hear the noise of the tires.

5. any experience driving in the snow with these tires?

 

Thank you

The ride is fine and they handle great in rain, snow, and dry environments.

 

My tires are not the OEM tires. I had them give me a new set when I bought the truck used with 13,000 miles. Somehow the camber was so bad it put a lot of one side wear on the treads and rotations were not going to fix it. These now have about 42,000 miles on them.

 

I rotate my tires every oil change so every 6,000-8,000 depending on when I get to the oil change.

 

I have a Borla ATAK and can hear my tires over the exhaust but my exhaust is pretty quiet when cruising. Really hoping it's not bearing noise I'm hearing.

 

Snow, these tires work great. I know a lot of plow trucks that run Duratracs but haven't discussed any pros/cons versus other tires with them.

Posted
Thanks.  Stock Wheels?  Do you have a picture how they look now?
 

a077da7ba09fd1eee96c14f598340212.jpg
Fronte153566a716d8ef0c5ad77d727ed3fcd.jpg
Rear0e577b958dee1067269cdcbc962f1c4f.jpg
918feadbae2a921dea641fc6c06c591f.jpg
Worst looking tire. 45400 on them. Purchased the truck with them on it Dec ‘16.

I’m in the same boat and will be getting new tires before winter rolls around.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

I do a good mix of highway and town driving. CAI (for what that’s worth) l, 2in level on the front, and I took the air dam off the bottom of it. Still getting 18.1mpg average.
From Long Island to Syracuse I usually get 20.5-22.

Best ride I ever had was an 8 hour ride to my gfs college. 24.1. But that was with no level, CAI, and dam on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I really do like the looks of the Duratracs. I liken them to the old Goodyear Wrangler TD's that I used to have on my '91 Cheyenne Shortbed 3 speed manual 4x4. Bitchin' truck.

 

However I doubt I really need duratrac. While I have a little bit of fun off-road at the occasional beach, or camping several times a year, I am usually on paved roads or sometimes on fire roads. My used '14 GMC came with Geolandar HT on it. Great highway tire, excellent fuel mileage. 

 

But I may go with a GY all terrain adventure or a trailrunner when these are worn

Posted

Out of your choices I would go with the adventures based on your described use. I would also recommend the Nitto Terra Grappler G2 in P275/65r18 which is what I ended up going with to replace my stock HT tires. Smooth, good traction,  and definitely more aggressive look than stock.  

Posted

Thank you for all your comments , suggestions and feedback.  I decided to go with the Goodyear All Terrain Adventure size 275 65 18 w/ white letters.  The installation is tomorrow.

 

 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...