towing a travel trailer cross country

[Moend]

If you guys have pictures or story I would love to see and hear from you

Thank you!

[Moend]

[oldmann]

18 hours ago, Moend said:

Good to know sounds like 65 is the magical number, I didn't feel too comfortable going over 65 - and i think leveled with WDH is about an inch lower than the standard ride as these trucks comes with about 1"~1.5" rake so when they are leveled they are about 1"~1.5" lower.

and this is what I have been doing putting the camper on, then left the back with the WDH till there is only 1" sag give or take - I don't know maybe I am over thinking this, but is it normal for small sedans to pass and cause the ass of the truck to wiggle about?

I think a bit is ok.  Let a car pass just the truck and I bet you feel it.  The trailer just magnifies it.  You will get used to it in a couple hours.  

[ShamrockShooter]

I will add that I love advanced trailer package that allows you to install tpms sensors in your trailer tires. It shows all 4 tires psi and temp. I check it literally every few minutes when towing at higher speeds on highway. On average my 14 inch travel trailer tires (2 axle 5500lb tt) will start out at 60 psi 80 ton 90 degrees in summer and will add 10 psi and get up to 120 degrees at 65 mph. So those tires really hear up.

If your truck has the advanced trailer I would highly recommend getting the sensors installed.

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

[Moend]

10 hours ago, ShamrockShooter said:

I will add that I love advanced trailer package that allows you to install tpms sensors in your trailer tires. It shows all 4 tires psi and temp. I check it literally every few minutes when towing at higher speeds on highway. On average my 14 inch travel trailer tires (2 axle 5500lb tt) will start out at 60 psi 80 ton 90 degrees in summer and will add 10 psi and get up to 120 degrees at 65 mph. So those tires really hear up.

If your truck has the advanced trailer I would highly recommend getting the sensors installed.

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk
 

Unfortunately I don't have that. But I was thinking to get those cigarettes ligher systems that goes on the valve stem

[Supercup]

I have 2020 AT4 (had 2019 AT4 before) and tow a 24'' Intech enclosed trailer.  No questions this truck is sensitive to tongue weight - I have found different settings on WDH for loaded or empty will change how it behaves.  Too much tongue weight and it will give you a little sway.

 

In addition to WDH I run a sway control bar on trailer that attaches to truck hitch as well.  Have had good success with this set up on past trailers and with this one as well.  My trailer will drop @$$ end 2.5" without WDH and about 1" when it is set with some tension.  I have bars rated at 1,500 lbs each (this is important, as if you have 800 lb bars, that is all the weight you can shift to front wheels).  To get serious tension aon WD bars a good trick is to hook up, then use jack to lift the back of the truck up above level - this will allow you to catch lower chain links and add to tension and throw more weight forward.  

 

I also find that this truck sucks into passing vehicles, but mostly big trucks or motorhomes - not much on cars.  I do think it is something you get used to and notice less as you tow more.  I also have the advanced trailering package and tow mirrors on my 2020 (why I switched from 2019) and find the overall package is awesome.  The mirrors and camera views down the side and out back make trailering so much safer and easier.  I knew it would be a plus, but had no idea how much better it would be.  

 

I added a photo of the sway control set up I have (not same brand, but same set up). 

 

 

 

[Moend]

15 hours ago, Supercup said:

I have 2020 AT4 (had 2019 AT4 before) and tow a 24'' Intech enclosed trailer.  No questions this truck is sensitive to tongue weight - I have found different settings on WDH for loaded or empty will change how it behaves.  Too much tongue weight and it will give you a little sway.

 

In addition to WDH I run a sway control bar on trailer that attaches to truck hitch as well.  Have had good success with this set up on past trailers and with this one as well.  My trailer will drop @$$ end 2.5" without WDH and about 1" when it is set with some tension.  I have bars rated at 1,500 lbs each (this is important, as if you have 800 lb bars, that is all the weight you can shift to front wheels).  To get serious tension aon WD bars a good trick is to hook up, then use jack to lift the back of the truck up above level - this will allow you to catch lower chain links and add to tension and throw more weight forward.  

 

I also find that this truck sucks into passing vehicles, but mostly big trucks or motorhomes - not much on cars.  I do think it is something you get used to and notice less as you tow more.  I also have the advanced trailering package and tow mirrors on my 2020 (why I switched from 2019) and find the overall package is awesome.  The mirrors and camera views down the side and out back make trailering so much safer and easier.  I knew it would be a plus, but had no idea how much better it would be.  

 

I added a photo of the sway control set up I have (not same brand, but same set up). 

 

 

 

Awesome! I really liked the comments about the "truck suck" is something I will get used too as it is something that scars me a lot and make me think it is the start of the sway. I wish I had the tow mirrors, not sure what else the tow package add aside from the mirrors, cameras, and trailer tires monitors.

 

I do use the trick you have mentioned using the jack to releif some stress off the bars, my hitch is rated to 1000lbs tongue weight and 10000lbs hauling weight.

 

I am thinking to get the sumosprings to help with pogo stick phenomenon on rougher road. Amd in my head I imagine will help the back of the truck from going side therefore I think they might help with the sway. What are your guys thoughts? Or just get an E rated tires and call it good?

 

Thanks alot

[Supercup]

I had a shop recommend the sumo springs as a "next" step, after E rated tires - I think with WDH and sway control I have what I need for loads I am hauling - up to 9,700 lbs with trailer and 2015 Z/28 inside.  

 

D or E rated tires will be in my future as I replace the stock C rated goodyear duratrac's on my AT4 with something larger.  I would take it step by step - do one thing - see how it is - add the next piece then see how it is.  At some point if you have to keep adding you may have the wrong truck! 

 

The 1500 series should be good to go for up to 10k with 1k in tongue weight.  For me if I were towing 9k plus all the time i would move up to 2500 diesel truck again, but for the loads I tow (4,500 - 9,700) the 1500 is fine and it offers a little nicer everyday driver when not towing than the 2500 - not to mention it is $20k less expensive!  

[Moend]

7 hours ago, Supercup said:

I had a shop recommend the sumo springs as a "next" step, after E rated tires - I think with WDH and sway control I have what I need for loads I am hauling - up to 9,700 lbs with trailer and 2015 Z/28 inside.  

 

D or E rated tires will be in my future as I replace the stock C rated goodyear duratrac's on my AT4 with something larger.  I would take it step by step - do one thing - see how it is - add the next piece then see how it is.  At some point if you have to keep adding you may have the wrong truck! 

 

The 1500 series should be good to go for up to 10k with 1k in tongue weight.  For me if I were towing 9k plus all the time i would move up to 2500 diesel truck again, but for the loads I tow (4,500 - 9,700) the 1500 is fine and it offers a little nicer everyday driver when not towing than the 2500 - not to mention it is $20k less expensive!  

I think you nailed on why I would want to stick to to the 1500, plus my weight is 7500 loaded which I will never run it that loaded moght run it 6500 tops. In translation only 70% of what this truck is able to tow.. thanks much buddy, I will do like you have recommended. E rated tired then the springs. If thag does not do it. I will down grade to a smaller camper.

 

Cheers!!

[Moend]

Took it to the scale today and this is what I got

[Moend]

And my door sticker reading:

 

GVWR 7100

GCWR 15000

GAWR RR 3800

Max Payload 1979

Max Tongue Weight 960

Curb Wight 5121

 

And I assumed the GAWR FR + GAWR RR = GVWR so I calculated GAWR FR = 3300

 

So according to the slip I got feom the scale I am 20lb over the front axel weight, went ahead and removed a link on my WDH and remeasured and got

 

Front axle 3260

Rear axle 3040

Trailer axles 4820

Gross 11120

 

I am still way below all my limits but still feeling un easy going 55mph. still planning on the sumo spring and possibly belstine shocks. And for sure the LT tires before our trip but I don't know how much that is going to change. Is it going to be enough or I am wasting my time and money?

 

Do I need a better WDH. or am i beating a dead horse? Just need a different setup?

Edited January 25, 2021 by Moend

[Moend]

[AlaskaErik]

14 hours ago, Moend said:

And my door sticker reading:

 

GVWR 7100

GCWR 15000

GAWR RR 3800

Max Payload 1979

Max Tongue Weight 960

Curb Wight 5121

 

And I assumed the GAWR FR + GAWR RR = GVWR so I calculated GAWR FR = 3300

 

So according to the slip I got feom the scale I am 20lb over the front axel weight, went ahead and removed a link on my WDH and remeasured and got

 

Front axle 3260

Rear axle 3040

Trailer axles 4820

Gross 11120

 

I am still way below all my limits but still feeling un easy going 55mph. still planning on the sumo spring and possibly belstine shocks. And for sure the LT tires before our trip but I don't know how much that is going to change. Is it going to be enough or I am wasting my time and money?

 

Do I need a better WDH. or am i beating a dead horse? Just need a different setup?

There is a second sticker at the bottom of the door jamb that gives you the gross weight limits of the front and rear axles.  You cannot add the two together to get GVWR because there has to be some flexibility in how the truck is loaded.  So the adding the gross weights for both axles will give you a number that is higher than GVWR.  So you will never be able to load the truck right up to the front and rear axle limits without exceeding GVWR, which covers the whole truck, and not just the axles.

[Jrodpic]

Just read the thread and was going to say the same thing. I have a 2020 Trailboss that lists the front and rear both as 3800lbs. GVWR is 7000.

[Moend]

Interestingly I only have the one sticker. They must have forgotten to put the other one at the factory.

 

I read that GVWR is higher than adding both front and back. Also, found that I should have weight the truck un hitched. Guees I Have to go back to the scale